BULLETLS1
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Re: Chassis battery going dead while generator on
Only the engine ALTERNATOR charges BOTH batts (or whatever your setup is 2 6v in series, or a combination of batts to get 12V one for the chassis, the other for the "house") you don't specify if the generator has its own alternator, or if the output (120VAC)of the gen is going to the 120VAC-to-12vDC pannel AND THEN to the batt. the sulfur smell probably WAS a bad regulator that overcharged the batts for a while, now the regulator destroyed itself leaving an open connection, thus ONLY draining the batts. sure test is that when engine running disconnect +side only (very careful not to touch anything grounded with the wrench used to loosen the battery conector) only briefly each batt A. IF the engine dies when disconnecting the chassis batt, ALT is toast. B. if lights in the "house" dimms when coach batts are disconected, and bright again when connected... your ALT is OK (and battery isolator also). C. when engine off generator on, try same test as B. or beeing OVERCHARGED by only beeing plugged in, probably ended up drying the electrolite (evaporated by always beeing warm, or electrolized due to a "between plates" short). also your battery isolator probably is shorted, because chassis batt should NOT drain using normal "house" power, also I've seen stuck boost solenoids!!!! (the ones that join both batts banks). hope this help286Views0likes0CommentsRe: P-30 Disc Brake Squeal
Some brake pads come with a pouch bag with some sort of adhesive(probbly is hi temp silicone painted blue!), its applied in the back of the pad , circular in the side of the piston, H shape in the opposite and on the edge of the fulcrum. What happens is that the pads grab and for a fraction of a second they become stationary with the disc, thus microscopically vibrating, and slaping against metal to metal... this adhesive-lubricant keeps metalic parts to slap each other358Views0likes0CommentsRe: ARCTICOLD first test NOT GOOD !
hello guys! its a SOUTHWIND chev chassis 30' 88 (or 89) refer seemed OE, because all insulation was moulded into. sadly I started to smell ammonia (like when cleaning windows) when I opened the fridge the smell was stronger (NOT to the point that you get offended by it). never saw yellow residue, and in this forum was recommended that it was dangerous to even LIT the burner, so finally I decided to buy an arcticold unit for a DOMETIC RM2800, sometime later I got the unit, managet to remove the fridge (and keeper in the kitchen because it WOUD NOT FIT in any door. a lot of stabbing later (in hard foam) managed to remove old unit and saw rust stain outside of the hard insulation, I removed part of the insulation and an elbow of one tube was CORRODED (not rust, I mean flakes of iron oxide) and there the foam smelled VERY strong of amonia. I managed to replace the new unit, and isolated with one can of KWIK FOAM INSULATOR, (took me 3 days to remove from my fingers and a WEEK to remove from my nails), I used the electric rod for a "test ride" and NOTHIG!, (I have to confess that after 2 hours after I wrote the post, the upper (lower temp) plate started to cool.... BUT MARGINALLY.221Views0likes0CommentsARCTICOLD first test NOT GOOD !
Finally I bought an ARCTICOLD cooling unit, and after some WWF, finally installed with kwik foam insulator (NASTY stuff!, and connected the 110v element, it did heated the upward column, the very top almos horizontal tube (using the "spit in the finger "thermometer") it is well over boiling, it zizzled!, the fins on top are lukewarm. The very bottom tube is HOT, almost to the can like chamber.... but the COOLING surface on the fridge, is NOT even below ambient!!! (Its been on heat for about an hour, I even smell melted paint).... HELP!!!! Im worried i will ruin a brand new unit, or explode or something!!!1.8KViews0likes6Comments
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