mvas
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Re: Megawatt Inrush And Small Generators
MrWizard wrote: I think i know what he is saying The cap goes across the megawatt input, It will be charged when you hold the pushbutton switch closed It will be charged at the RMS voltage level It is NOT going to go from zero to 178 back to zero The stored RMS 120v will add Momentary starting current to input/, induction circuit of the mega watt, allowing a small generator to energize the circuit and charge batteries It's not the 700w charging that stops an 800w generator, it's the inrush current very similar to starting an induction motor like a compressor Since a run cap is designed to be left in the circuit, using it as a momentary start cap will not hurt it, and if needed , it could be hard wired to the mega watt and left in the circuit, The input of the megawatt becomes an LC load circuit, not just An L load I am sorry, but what you are saying about the capacitor is simply not true. The voltage across the capacitor is and must change 120 times per second! First Half Cycle ... The voltage across the capacitor ramps to +170 Volts peak. Then it ramps down to 0 Volts. Second Half Cycle... The voltage across the capacitor ramps to -170 Volts peak. Then it ramps down to 0 Volts. These two half cycles will repeat 60 times per second while the button is pressed. The Voltage is AC = Alternating Current, NOT DC. The capacitor charges and discharges 120 times per second. Nothing that you say, can stop this from happening. Nothing.534Views0likes0CommentsRe: Trouble hooking up battery.
tommymsw wrote: First let me start by saying I have done my work and know how to hook up house batteries. Second, let me say that I just have an old tiny RV. It is not much, but it is mine. So I just bought it this winter and have been fixing it up. Now it is summer and I want to put a new house battery in. But I have no idea what wires go where. I am not overly worried as I may blow a fuse or two figuring it out, but just wanted some experienced advice... I am guessing that the 2 white and the red wire would connect to the POSITIVE terminal and the black wires that attach to the side and come down go to the NEGATIVE. But there is ONE more black wire (lowest wire in the picture) that is not connected to the others. I am assuming it is STILL a negative, and that all 3 black wires are negative and the red and 2 white are positive. That would mean 3 negative and 3 positive.. so my math works out. :) Maybe the red wire and the FREE black wire are the charging wires? Does anybody think I am wrong? ASSUME nothing. You must trace each wire back to the source and then attach labels. Then you will have facts. You need to KNOW. Can you follow any wires back to a Charge Controller? What about frame ground? I would be very worried about "blowing a fuse or two". Reverse polarity may damage the device on the other end before the fuse blows - not a good idea.447Views0likes0CommentsRe: Today's Response From Trojan
MEXICOWANDERER wrote: Just to be snottily precise... Corrosion: H2SO4 chemical (et by acid) Erosion: Ablation by electrolysis (decomposition) Agreed H2SO4 causes corrosion, but doesn't over-charging accelerate Grid Corrosion? I always "over-charge" a little to guarantee 100% SOC. I treat lead sulfate, as if it was cancer.363Views0likes0CommentsRe: Today's Response From Trojan
With only 5 - 6 Hours of Full-Sun (equiv) per day, charging a deeply discharged Lead Acid battery back to 100% SOC, between sunrise & sunset is very difficult. So, increase the voltage that determines when we change from Bulk Mode to Absorb Mode. Staying in Bulk Mode longer =========================== a) Puts more AH into the battery faster b) Decreases the time needed for Absorb Mode significantly c) Uses more water d) Causes more Grid Corrosion e) Increases chance of 100% SOC by sunset possible Is PSOC the #1 reason for early battery failure?366Views0likes0CommentsRe: Possible dead batteries -
An AGM battery can be Load Tested - disconnect the batteries and then fully recharge them. Typically, discharge at 1/2 the CCA Rating or 3 times the 20 Hour rating. The mfr will specify minimum holding voltage after 15 seconds discharge. Now, you will know if the batteries are good or not.380Views0likes0CommentsRe: 6v series vs. 12v parallel
MEXICOWANDERER wrote: The only SURE WAY is to open them up and LEARN. Name a six cell car jar that has >.050" plates. Rolls Surrette 12 Volt 357AH Flooded Lead Acid ... Positive = 0.260" ( 5 times thicker than 0.050" ) Negative = 0.180" ( 3 times thicker than 0.050" ) True Deep Cycle ...341Views0likes0CommentsRe: Autoformer test a "back yard" report
pianotuna wrote: I don't understand why a "motor" load of 951 watts would cause load support to become active, while the water heater plus fridge totaling 1525 watts did not. Could this be a power factor issue? You stated, "... 951 Watts for the motor ..." Is that the Running Watts or the Starting Watts ? The Starting Watts for a motor, can be 2X, 3X, 4X the Running Watts 2 x 951 Running Watts = 1,902 Starting Watts 3 x 951 Running Watts = 2,853 Starting Watts 4 x 951 Running Watts = 3,804 Starting Watts Power Factor is usually a smaller issue, while the In-Rush Starting Watts is the larger issue here. A Soft-Start Controller can reduce the In-Rush Starting Watts. A Capacitor, properly connected to the motor, can correct the PF.180Views0likes0Comments
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