All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Starting problems - 92 Fleetwood (E-350) motorhomeI have a fully charged battery on it now but am not getting any sound from the starter or solenoid. The single Click when ign. key is turned to start sounds as if coming somewhere above the engine on the drivers side. Where is the starter relay? I haven't really ever worked on this engine. I've worked some on the RV installing a solar panel, solar charger, extra house batteries, power distribution panel, new converter charger, wiring for tow vehicle, plumbing, etc. Years ago I remember connecting to a Innova obd1/obd2 scanner, performing a few tests, etc.Re: Starting problems - 92 Fleetwood (E-350) motorhome BFL13 wrote: Sounds like it is just a bad battery connection, like others suggest. Clean posts and clamps, try again. When the starter went bad on my E350, it just whirred. Was the "Bendix" not engaging. New starter solved that. Needed a tow from campground to a garage nearby though. (Thanks, Good Sam!) Possibly the starter or solenoid. I think the main problem is the Jambo hasn't moved in 10 years and only been started a few time within that time frame. When running it started, ran and sounded very good. I'm next to the Ocean in the Pacific Northwest, perhaps the salt air has effected the wiring, starter, solenoid, etc. It's accumulated alot of rust underneath. The Searcher that had been previously in Calif most of it's life and had very little rust when bought back in 07.Re: Starting problems - 92 Fleetwood (E-350) motorhome Gjac wrote: I would start by cleaning the battery terminals. How soon after taking your 11 year old battery of the charger did you take a reading and get 13.5 v? That could be just a surface charge if you took the reading an hr after you charged it. At any rate if you don't want to buy a new battery I would charge all 3 let them sit over night take a reading on each one and if you see 12.6 v on two of them wire them in parallel and see if the engine will turn over. Once you know your connections are free of corrosion and you have enough CCA's to turn the engine over(if you have house batteries which are good you can use your emergency start button also) and it still wont start the next step it tom look at the starting relay. See if you are reading 12+ v on each side of the relay. Try all that and let us know how you make out. The 11 year old Yellow Top was sitting in my Jeep which is temproarily disabled until I install a new rear hard brake line. I had it on a charger but took off a few weeks ago, so it's been sitting with out a charge either from a charger or alternator for at least a few weeks. I was thinking of swapping to my other Jeep that has a brand new Ever Start that has gone dead twice, leaving the interior lights on. I left my door open once for approx. 4 hours and another time 2 hours and it went completely dead (2-3 volts) I think it's a piece of ?#?x?. They put this stupid tight fitting cover over the cells that's impossible to remove to perform maintenance. Anyway when I went to swap it for the Yellow Top recently the 11 year old Yellow Top voltage read 13.35 volts (from Fluke DMM) and it hadn't been charged in several weeks. I'll take extra care in cleaning terminals, perhaps chain a few of the batteries in parallel. It does have an auxiliary start but the three house batteries have been removed.Re: Starting problems - 92 Fleetwood (E-350) motorhomeI have a two ton floor jack I'm hoping can lift up the front enough to access the starter. I seem to remember checking the Yellow Top was at 13.35 volts, after it had been sitting unused. I then had the Yellow Top on a charger overnight. With the Truecharge2 connected to the Yellow Top Group 34 I can here only a single click when ign turned to start. The yellow top had been working ok holding a charge and cranking the Jeep's 4.0L engine. It does have a date code of 04/08 which makes it approx. 11 year old battery. I'm just moving the motor home down the road a short ways and don't really want to purchase a new Group 65 battery if it's going to be sitting in one spot and not being driven at all. Another option would be to pay a tow company to tow it ~five miles down the road. Once it's moved I may need to move it on the property once or twice. I can then work on it later to get it to start. I have all the factory schematics, FSM, etc. for an E-350. I'll probably need to take a closer look at the wiring in case the problem isn't the battery. The check engine light comes on when the ign key is turned. I do have a Snap-On MT-2500 which works with most OBD1 vehicles providing live readout and some diagnostics. However Ford OBD was behind other manufactures in the 80s and early 90s may not have much information when connected to an OBD1 scanner. (other than perhaps a Ford scanner)Starting problems - 92 Fleetwood (E-350) motorhomeI have a 92 Fleetwood (E-350) 23" Motorhome with approx. 55,000 miles I'm trying to move to another location. It's started in the past without any problems, but yesterday went to start the only response is a single click when the ign key is turned to start that sounds as if it's coming from the top side of the engine and as if it's on or in the drivers top side of the engine compartment. I thought perhaps it was the starter and/or solenoid however while underneath I can here a single "click: when the key is turned to start, above and not below the engine. I'm trying to remember, where is there a starter relay? I know there are three relays on the drivers side near the front of the engine compartment, one I think is for towing, but unable to remember what the other two relays are used for. I believe the engine is a Ford 385 V8 7.5 L (460 cu in) OHV V8 I'm trying different batteries but none are the correct Groups size and CCA and all are fairly old. Group 34 Yellow Top out of a Jeep (CCA 750) Group 31 Sears Platinum AGM Group 31 RV / marine batteries with 600 CCA. I'm currently have the Group 31 RV/Marine battery on a 20 amp Truecharge2 but am uncertain if 600 CCA is enough? --- I looked up the Group size and it takes a Group 65. Appears some have CCA's of 775. Weak battery and.or low CCA? The Group 34 Yellow Top I also tried (still working great), has a date code of 04/08 Walmart does have a Group 65 Ever Start battery with an 850 CCA.Re: Aluminum water tankWe picked up the 250 gallon plastic tank with cage nearby for $150.00 that's being used for black water, that has a sewer service, cost to empty is $90.00 which is much less than trying to service 250+ gallons. For $150.00 included a 50 gallon tank with lid and a 65 gallon, no lid has opening at top with plastic screw. Can't remember exactly but a ~500 gallon would cost significantly more to service for sewer than a 250 gallon. In another forum a person said he used food grade 55 gallon plastic drums to build a float. Said he paid from %5.00 - $10.00 found on craigslist for the plastic drums. Locally the least expensive 55 plastic drums found are $15.00 each. Approx. 125 to 150 miles away. Other drum prices craigslist varying distances in other towns and cities from #20.00 to $25.00+ each. 55 gallon drums sounds like a good alternative if inexpensive enough and not too far way. 6 x 55 = 330 gallons. Cost for 6 x 55 gallon drums at $15.00 each = $90.00 250 to 300 miles away RT fuel cost to pickup $55.00 to $65.00. However I'm uncertain the cost for sewer service i.e. if the sewer service goes by the amount sucked out of a tank or the tank size. If amount would likely only need 4 x 55 gallon drums.Re: Aluminum water tankThe tank is only a temporarily solution. We are still looking for a plastic tank. People in this area don't have alot of money so it's likely imposing higher fees it will become more difficult for property sellers to sell property as well as decrease their property values.Aluminum water tankI have a friend who purchased some property where he and has wife are living in a 5th wheel. Currently there's no water or electricity. They're using a generator to maintain house batteries and for AC appliances. We installed a 250 gallon plastic sewer holding tank for black water that on a sewer service that periodically empties when full. His 5th wheel black water tank is 38 gallon is periodically emptied into the 250 gallons tank that has sewer service when it becomes full. There was electrical service at one time on the property which as soon as the service box is inspected and oked for service will connect up the outdoor 110 service box on a pole to the pud. The current problem is with the city water system is charging a $10,000 fee to connect to city water, along a road next to the property. AFAWK there no well on the property. To dig a well has been roughly estimated to be $11,000 or possibly higher. In the mean time we've been looking around for a water solution as there's no bulk water service in our area. We are thinking of installing large water tank ~250 - 500 gallons that can be filled from smaller 50-60 gallon tanks from a pickup. We found a used 550 gallon plastic water tank, that was sold before we were able to contact the seller. Then we came across another used 350 gallon tank, the only problem is it's made from aluminum. Seller described can be used for water, however I've been reading that aluminum water tanks, even though installed on boats, etc. that plastic food grade tanks are preferred as water holding tanks. Some people have stated they've used aluminum water tanks for 15 to 25 plus years without any problems, while others have stated concerns about aluminum used for water storage. Problems such as aluminum getting into drinking water and reacting with chlorine, etc. I'm uncertain if any source water such as from well or city water would have any chlorine. Anyway I was looking for any feedback using aluminum tanks to store water which likely would only be used for washing dishes, taking showers, washing clothes and for a toilet. Currently water is coming from those 5 gallon jugs filled from water machine at a local store. What concerns are there when using aluminum holding tanks to store water to be fed into a RV's main water tank which in this 5th wheel is 50 gallons (plastic water tank).? A water holding tank is only a temporary solution until we figure how to connect to the city water for less than $10k. We're going to consult with the city water to see if they have some sort of time payment where payment towards the $10,000 fee would part of a monthly bill. From what I've been told, since the city upgraded their water system that comes from wells pumped into large cement holding tanks they increased their connection fee. So it's possible they will lessen the connection fee sometime in the future.TRUECharge2 20 fanI have a Truecharg2 20 amp that charging as it should. However the fan seems to be constantly running. I've never observed while on and charging when the fan isn't running. Is this normal? Is the Truecharge2 fan microprocessor controlled via an internal temperature sensor??Re: Norcold N641 stops working during heavy rain stormsWhile the N641 wouldn't turn on I measured 12 VDC from the DC+ pos and DC- neg wires that connect to the PCB. After some time drying out of the rear vent area the N641 I noticed while opening the door the frig light turned on so I held the ON button and the N641 turned on and has been working good for a couple of days without any problems. The N641 has only stopped working during severe rain storms with strong wind, never just when there's alot of rain, so during really heavy rain and winds moisture must be getting inside around the pcb. One thing is even though I placed the pcb cover fairly tightly over the pcb I hadn't secured the pcb cover with screws so perhaps that's important that the cover is secured down tightly with it's scews? ------------------------ There is a side wall vent with louver 13" x 21" and a roof vent with cover ~16" x ~6". I haven't ever noticed water coming from the roof vent. This time when the N641 shut off there was some moisture on top of the PCB cover but didn't notice any moisture on the PCB. I think the problem is moisture is getting inside around and sometimes on the PCB itself. If moisture is getting in on the PCB coating it with some conformal coating doesn't seem to have effect other than reduces oxidation, mildew and corrosion which will occur in a few areas even though the pcb cover is screwed down. It was last year I cleaned up any corrosion and green mildew which I noticed from the multi pin plug and a few other spots. After cleaning up real good I coated the entire PCB with a urethane conformal coating. Conformal coating are used to allow circuit boards to be used in wet locations.
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