RVer_Andy
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Re: Crock pot?
No problems. Suggest putting in on a wire rack from your oven to just slightly raise if off the counter top be sure it doesn't blister the counter top. Be sure nothing flamable is within 12 or more inches of the pot. Otherwise, put in all your favorite ingredients (I always add a few shakes of Mrs. Dash Original or Onion and Herb, puter on low, go out and enjoy your 8 hour day (put it on medium if you're only goning to be gone 4 housrs), and come home to a great smell and wonderful meal. If you're making beef stew, I suggest replacing any water with beef broth and DON"T USE STEW MEAT from the grocery. Get you some tender roast or tender steak cuts. Same with any Chicken stuff, use Chicken broth for the liquid. If you want a thicker gravy, add the necessary ingredients of your choice. Andy402Views0likes0Comments2004, 2005, 2006 Bounder Owners Experiences w/ Your Rig
I am looking at buying my second M.H. I cannot buy new, so trying to find low milage good brand name unit. The 2002 Holiday Rambler gas Endevour I had was no good. Numerous problems in spite of good care and regular maintenance. I sold it and the tow for one package price and loved the sight of the tail lights going down the road with a new owner who had been informed of the problems we'd had. THey'd had a "fiver" and were longing for a M.H. Anyway, I am now considering a 2005 Bounder 35E that is very clean and well kept in seemingly excellent condition for around $35K from a local dealer. I am looking for those who are owners or past owners of 2004, 2005, 2006 Gasoline Bounders with the Vortec 8.1 liter, V8 engine, to tell me your experiences with this rolling home. Any tips on improvments (brakes, springs/suspension upgrades, roof, awnings, engine, coach, plumbing, electrical, you name it), engine or coach problems and solutions, maintenance solutions and or problems, maintenance suggestions peculiar to this particular M.H., how the chevy chassis/engine combo performs in various conditions, ie weather, winds in west Texas, up and down mountains east and west, any towing problems OR suggestions, what you tow and what tow bar used. etc. etc. If the 2005 Bounder with big slide, model 35E was a "lemon" year then Please speak up Thanks for your time and valuable information friends, Andy3.3KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Anyone own an R-Vision Condor around 2003 to 2005?
DJK 18205 wrote: I owned a 29' 2005 Condor, 8.1 liter, Alision trany, 19.5" tires. The only problem wwe had was the dash air went out on us twice. We pulled trailer from Florida to Strugis with a Goldwing in it, then to the U P of Mich., then Tenn. then home. Also towed 2012 Jeep and other trips up the East coast. Traded it in in Arpil just for a bigger unit. Thanks for sharing that DJK.663Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anyone own an R-Vision Condor around 2003 to 2005?
oldmattb wrote: Some good friends have a 2001 (I think) Condor and we have spent some time in it. Several things I liked. The water supply pump is mounted in a bay, so it is easy to get to and its operation nearly silent. The waste system had an attached pull-out hose which I found easy to use. The layout was fully functional with the slide in. Nice sized kitchen. No transfer box for AC power, you just plug the cord into an outlet - simple and it works. The storage bays are spacious. Friends have had problems with the slide dragging and tearing up the kitchen cabinets. Last trip out, a drift pin loosened on the slide mechanism, and required a campsite repair. They had some issue with the body coming loose from the frame, and had to have additional bolts. Symptom was excessive body lean on turns and sloppy handling. In our use of the coach, we did some serious mountain driving, and experienced no overheating and no brake fade. Coach came to them with upgraded front suspension parts. They have had no problems with the Autopark, but at my insistence, now carry schematic, a troubleshooting guide, and large wheel chocks. Matt B Dang. . . Body coming loose from the frame! I tolerate a lot of mechanical issues but THAT I do believe would scare the wits out of me. . . to put it mildly. Thanks for that heads up.647Views0likes0CommentsAnyone own an R-Vision Condor around 2003 to 2005?
Considering purchasing a used R-Vision Condor model and would like to know if anyone here owns one and if you would share your experiences with it ast to what you like and dislike and any problems you have had with it, ie slide malfunctions, leaks, motor and or transmission etc. etc. Thanks4.9KViews0likes5CommentsRe: Anybody using synthetic oil? Help with MPG? etc.
beemerphile1 wrote: RVer Andy wrote: ...looks like the high quality 5W 50 oil is about the best one can do.... What gas engine manufacturer recommends 5w 50? That is some heavy viscosity oil. Nothing I own will be using it. I know some guys use 50wt oil in air cooled engines like a Harley. Even then I doubt the manufacturer recommends it. My mistake, I meant 5W-40 someone above said that weight was OK to use. I plead ignorant about oil weight specs and always have been. Somehow the meaning of the numbers just doesn't stick with my 64 year old brain any more :?439Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anybody using synthetic oil? Help with MPG? etc.
BenK wrote: As with anything...all things...it is a system and to only look at one aspect is to potentially take it out of context Marketing folks do that all the time...take something or one component of the whole out of context. Yes, synthetic 'can' produce or allow higher MPG, but depends Depends on stuff like what type of ICE, size of that ICE, architecture of that ICE, the load (empty, small 'car' or towing several tons, etc), terrain, ambient, and the two biggies: #1 how you drive and #2 your maintenance schedule I didn't know that there was different weights of ice. Is water lighter in some areas? What about dry ice? I guess lite beer would save help with the mpg also. Take my 'ex' and her driving style, terrain, ambient etc... Mud hen recycled jug oil would be just fine, but she doesn't maintain it well. So one of my 'ex' sedans now smokes a bit (her new BF's driving style doesn't help). Know this because she still uses the my mechanic I used to fill with Mobil 1 synthetic and PureOne filters. Tried leaving it in there over one year...but just could not stand it. So changed it...old oil came out just as clear as the new charge going in My Sub had a fresh charge of Mobil 1 synthetic and new filter installed for a trip towing my old +8.5K lb boat up to Lake Tahoe a few years ago. Noticed the gang was running much harder and figured showing that one loud mouth who constantly bragged that his half ton Toyota could out tow 250's, 2500's, etc Okay, I'll join and nailed the throttle most of the way. That loud mouth had to take in his Toyota and the kid next door to me worked at the local dealer. Told me a new automatic and diff were installed At just over 500 miles on that charge, noticed my big block consume about 1 quart, dash oil PSI gauge fluctuated and lower PSI...changed the engine oil and all went back to normal...must have worn out the additive package and film/shear/etc strength of the engine oil reduced Ditto flushed the 4L80 and diff fluid with sythentics Film strength, temp range (high end is the main criteria) and the additive package are the key differences between 'regular' oil and synthetics. Then the different oil OEMs and how they refine the stuff My big block ICE won't notice dino vs synthetic, as the pumping losses of a big block has the differences in the two types of oil lost in that Now my 2 seater and the old 2.4L in-line six does show the difference as the pumping losses are no where near what my Sub's big block are There are too many attributes, studies, etc, etc, etc to discuss on this thread. I've been studying automotive via boy racer passion since my teens My first charge of synthetic had one quart cost as much as my hourly wage. Where the whole 'it is good for 20,000 miles' comes from, IMHO Today's dino is most likely better than the synthetic's back then439Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anybody using synthetic oil? Help with MPG? etc.
Thanks for all the replys. Somehow I got the mistaken Idea that the synthetic oil was "slicker" and would reduce internal friction and thus a bit more MPG. However I am supposing since the viscosity remains the same and it does not contain things like silicone or whatever to allow the internals to move easier there would therefore be no improvement in MPG. However aditives such as "Slick 50" do reduce friction but I don't know if that is at the sacrifice of protection for the engine. From what the concinsus is saying here, looks like the high quality 5W 50 oil is about the best one can do. SO, In a real world, besides not having a lead foot, and perhaps using 89 instead of 87 octane (as someone suggested), WHAT in the world can I do to increase my MPG?439Views0likes0CommentsAnybody using synthetic oil? Help with MPG? etc.
Perhaps I did not search correctly but I did not see a thread here about people using synthetic oil and their experiences. TALKING GASOLINE TRUCKS USED TO TOW HERE: For example, if you ARE using synthetic oil, does it help truely with your mpg? Does engine perform better when towing or run cooler etc.? Also are you using any other type of oil aditive that has HONESTLY helped with mpg.? Example "SLICK 50" etc. Good results as well as horrow stories welcome. Thanks, Andy6.1KViews0likes25CommentsRe: Anybody here tow using a Tundra 5.7 w/SR5 and Towing pkg.?
Thanks for the many replys to this topic. I will have to find a 2000 lb. lighter T.T. to pull to feel comfortable with payload using the Tundra 5.7L. I was unaware of all the numbers involved in deciding how much to tow. WOW, you guys know a LOT of stuff about T.T.s and trucks. I have never heard of 10 ply tires that were mentioned for rear of truck to prevent fishtailing, I thought that is what sway bars were for. I have a LOT to learn it seems.579Views0likes0Comments
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