Rich_D_
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Joined 22 years ago
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Re: Concrete driveway or pavers for A?
We Cant Wait wrote: I think you'll find pavers do not work for a MH pad. The ground will settle under the pavers where you drive it and even more so where it sets and the pavers will soon be kicked up at odd angles all over the place. Why is it then that many upscale RV resorts use paver pads for their sites? A proper base is necessary for either concrete or pavers. The good thing about pavers is that they can be easily fixed if there is a problem. With concrete, once it is cracked, it stays cracked.643Views0likes0CommentsRe: Remote tire pressure/heat monitors and theft
wny_pat wrote: You sure come across as a fear based kind of guy. I really can't believe how much you folks are concerned about theft of RV specific items! Now if you were to camp at Hunts Point in NYC, I'd be concerned. But the vast majority of the places we go in this country, I don't think you should be concerned! In many cases (mine too) it was not a fear of theft but a desire to be able to check/add air without the nuisance of dealing with add on sensors. If I wasn't purchasing new tires I might have opted for the screw on's but glad I have the internal sensors. Using Alcoa's flow through #001009 double seal valve stem caps makes adding air quick and simple. Simply inflate right through the "cap". The ribbed part (looks threaded) holds the dual foot chuck in place. http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/info_page/accessories_hd_valve_cap.asp451Views0likes0CommentsRe: Remote tire pressure/heat monitors and theft
Since I was purchasing tires, I opted for the type that has internal sensors. They work great, are invisible and theft proof. Simply mount the sensor onto the rim with a long hose type clamp. Then mount the tire and balance as usual. The sensor and clamp weigh next to nothing so there is no need for extra balancing. I'm sure there are many good systems. The one I choose was Tire SafeGuard. You can mix the internal sensors with screw on for the toad if you wish. They also make an internal stem mounted sensor. If you have an all steel body vehicle such as mine, be sure to get the "N" type monitor as some of the others may not pick up the signals properly. http://tiresafeguard.com/450Views0likes0CommentsRe: Sort-a winterize
Keld, The temperatures in CT do get cold in November but a really hard freeze won't come until later. If you have access to dependable electric power, I'd run a couple of good quality portable electric heaters, one inside and one in the bay area. If you have built in electric heaters, all the better. In NW CT I did this for a few Novembers, waiting for Thanksgiving to head south. If reliable power is not available, do a full winterizing. Don't rely on a "partial" winterizing". Always better to be safe than sorry. Winterizing is cheap, plumbing repairs are not.446Views0likes0CommentsRe: Going out in cold temps
michelled wrote: Thanks for all the advice already! The tanks and plumbing are in the enclosed belly (that's what you call a basement, I think, right?). But no, the "basement" isn't heated. I've read that you can put a small space heater down there for extra reassurance. Is that correct? So here is what I'm thinking (my husband is the person who does all the maintenance, so bear with me if I don't use the correct language): - Fill the fresh water tank the very last thing before we leave NH - Put some RV antifreeze in the black and gray water tanks - Make sure we've insulated any water pipes we can get to - Have a space heater at the ready to warm the basement if we need to - Make sure the propane tank is full and be prepared to need more propane - Dump the tanks on the way home before we hit Northern temps - Winterize again as soon as we are home (or maybe even before we get home) Does that plan make sense? Thanks! - Michelle Be careful insulating pipes. The insulation can keep heat from getting to the pipes and they will freeze. Also RV antifreeze is designed not to freeze when full strength. As soon as it is diluted all bets are off. Better to keep a heater in the bay to keep above freezing. A little rock salt in the waste tanks will help too.335Views0likes0CommentsRe: Blue ox cable
DanTheRVMan wrote: chuckftboy wrote: The rubber jacket cracks because its not UV protected. If you choose to leave it connected when not in use, you could just slide a cover over it. Maybe a old bag from a camping chair I would agree with you but mine spends most of its life in a bay and it cracked as well. Yes, mine was kept in the garage and cracked too. They were not well made. Hope the new one I just bought is better.298Views0likes0CommentsRe: Running generator while driving in the rain
Never heard that before but installations and generator types vary widely. Some are pretty open and others are totally sealed in soundproof compartments. I guess he may be referring to an installation where water may be sucked into the air inlet? I've never seen a post where someone had a problem running rhe generator in the rain.173Views0likes0Comments
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