JRMunn
Explorer
Joined 9 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Refrigerator Too Warm
wopachop - Jugs might be an option if my return schedule was more certain. But my experience with drained batteries (which shut off the refrigerator and take a long time to re-charge) and propane use advises otherwise, and I don't even want to think about mold. Is it your experience that it takes longer than overnight for the refrigerator to cool down? JR Munn590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Refrigerator Too Warm
Wopchop - Thanks for advice about fans. I hope I don't end up with 4 fans - sounds like significant draw-down on the battery. My routine is to turn refrigerator off when I leave (with doors cracked open and without anything in it that spoils or melts) then start it up as soon as I return, which could be a few days. I found a couple of thermometers at home to see starting temperature, will look again after it runs overnight, then switch thermometers to see if I get similar results. With this as a baseline, I can start following up on the many suggestions for sources of problems. JRMunn590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Refrigerator Too Warm
Thank you enblethen for the Manual. It helps to see the instructions and diagram. I have put it in my trailer folder, both on the computer and printed a copy for in the trailer. I will check clearances. And I will check freezer and food compartment temperatures. I can move the temperature setting to 5, but figured that would be for hot climates in the summer instead of when the heater is needed. JRMunn590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Refrigerator Too Warm
Thank you for all the helpful suggestions. I had not checked for coolant leakage, but I will, because the freezer seems to work fine and my experience with propane refrigerators has been with older models. I don't know about clearances and the trailer didn't come with a manual for the refrigerator. The refrigerator is original, so I hope it was installed correctly. The trailer is level, or very close to it. I am reasonably sure of the 12 volt source. Since I use propane, I think the DC line is for the control board and light. I have inspected the seal, but not tested it. How is this done? I have the adjustable temperature set at 4, but it has been long enough since I measured temperatures that I can't remember them - only that the refrigerator section seemed too warm. I hesitate to set the temperature adjustment lower since the freezer seems to be working fine - makes ice in just a few hours. I will measure temperatures again with a better thermometer and then see what happens when the thermistor is unclipped. I will also check to make sure I have a blue flame from the burner. Thank you again for the many suggestions. JRMunn591Views0likes0CommentsRefrigerator Too Warm
After the knuckle busting task of changing a furnace motor, I have tried not to be learning something new about my 2004 Sunnybrook 5th wheel for a while. But I have been putting up with a refrigerator problem that needs to be taken care of before the summer heat arrives. There is no shore power where the trailer is parked, so I have the refrigerator running on propane. It has separate freezer and refrigerator compartments. The freezer part seems to work fine, but the refrigerator is too warm. I have tried moving the temperature sensor up and down on the refrigeration fin without seeing much change in temperature. The refrigerator is a Dometic model no. RM2862 with a product no. of 921 14 60-96. Any suggestions about how to solve this temperature problem would be greatly appreciated. JR Munn4KViews0likes18CommentsRe: Heater Motor Squeal
Joppy - This is getting close to home. I have blocked or screened every crack I can find and still get some mice in both the trailer's underside and living space. When I opened the furnace, I found mouse droppings and acorn shells on the floor, which means they have been in the ducts - but nothing in the fan blower. Now, traps seem to keep them under control and mice that do get in are small. But they still get in somewhere. JRMunn539Views0likes0CommentsRe: Heater Motor Squeal
enblethen - Thank you for the motor number. This helps to confirm my best guess from searching through the many possibilities. I hope to confirm with a trip to the trailer tomorrow before taking the heater apart. While searching the internet, I came across "Bryant manuals" as a source of information. JRMunn538Views0likes0CommentsRe: Heater Motor Squeal
Thanks to garyp4851 for the very helpful and informative video about rv heater repair. Now, having looked around the internet for motors, I think my last question is what motor to buy. I know there is a difference between motors that were available for different heater models covered by the rv heater documents, but that was 16 years ago. Now, the model numbers are different, and maybe the motors. This is the long lead-in to my question of what to buy for a 2004 model 8531 Atwood Hydro Flame furnace? JRMunn538Views0likes0CommentsHeater Motor Squeal
My heater fan motor is starting to squeal, despite the life-time sealed bearing in it. Does anyone have experience in changing a heater fan motor? I tried searching on "heater motor" without success. The rig is a 2004 Sunnybrook Titan 5th wheel and the heater is a 30,000 BTU Atwood Hydroflame model 8531. I expect that this is a fairly common heater across 5th wheel and trailer brands. I looked inside, because it appeared that the job would be straight forward from the parts diagram, and I did manage to pull off and then put back the fan chamber front plate. But the motor is inside the main fan and its shaft has fans both inside and outside of the burner chamber. Space is very tight, there are lots of wires, and I couldn't figure out how to get to the motor screws. Does anyone know if or how this might be fixed? So far, the squeal only starts when air temperature in the fan box is below about 57 deg. F. JRMunn4KViews0likes12CommentsRe: Bedroom Slide Problem
Scott, Your post has caused me to take a closer look. The slide mechanism is on the floor under the bed. It is similar, but not exactly the same as in you picture. With the bed pulled back into the room, I can actually see a gear that fits into slots in a metal rail under the bed. But I still can't tell if there is a shear or "ratchet" problem. With my wife operating the switch, I was able to push the slide tight on the front side, but the other side is still slightly out at the bottom and more than 1" out at the top (it's not settling down). And I found a lable. It is a room slide manufactured by a company called "Happijac", so I was able to find a users manual with troubleshooting steps. Thanks for the suggestions and motivation to look closer. JRMunn256Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Mar 07, 202519,008 Posts
