nlol
Explorer
Joined 7 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: The shorter the center of gravity, the better right?
None that I know of, but there can be a trailer towing issue with a camper that extends beyond the end of the bed. Many people use an extension bar. That's ok if the trailer is light weight. With a heavy trailer though, aside from the fact the bar may not be strong enough to carry the weight, when the truck turns the trailer has a more leverage pushing the rear of the truck around. If the trailer is heavy the solution is to lengthen the trailer tongue enough to clear the camper. Putting a heavy trailer on an extension bar is asking for trouble - makes backing up more difficult too.779Views0likes0CommentsRe: The shorter the center of gravity, the better right?
Most short bed campers do not fit to the front of the bed. They try to make up for lost inside space due to their short length by filling out the bed area behind the wheelwells and/or extending the rear of the camper. Most will hang off the rear of a longbed just as much as the rear of a shortbed.781Views0likes0CommentsRe: The shorter the center of gravity, the better right?
I dunno, I looked at some of those short campers that can be placed in LB trucks. I came to the conclusion that sales people's goal is to sell you something - anything - now. And that they know little about campers and trucks. Certainly some exceptions out there but all I found were people with no TC experience and only 'feature' knowledge. Theoretically, as long as the CG is in front of the rear wheels - doesn't have to be much - the truck should handle acceptably. I saw nothing but fit problems though in many cases where the salesman said, "Sure, you can put that in a LB truck, we do it all the time", you should say, "Show me.". But you go look: What keeps the camper from sliding forward? What does the camper hit if it slides forward - rear tail lights? What special thing do you have to do to connect the electrics. When you go around a corner will the camper want to pivot in the truck bed? Are there any jacking problems? What are the tie-down problems? Look - look - look. It's best if you have your particular truck there and at least visually walk through loading, tie-down, and unloading - better to actually do it. They make campers for SB trucks because there are a heck of a lot of SB trucks these days. People buy Sb campers and use them, but take a hard look at the campers - at what you loose in a SB TC In short, be very careful. It is easy to spend a lot of money learning what you wish you knew before you spent your money - in short, an expensive lesson.779Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wedgewood oven problem
Again, Thanks, I found the problem. The thermostat/control is good. The problem is the pilot light jet was clogged. Thanks. I spend over 4 months each summer in Yukon Territory. Having the oven working will make being inside almost as much fun as being outside.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Wedgewood oven problem
First, thanks everyone for the help. Second, Old-Biscuit - Thanks for the service manual. I had only "Literature number 52229' that came with the camper. It left a lot to be desired. Third, a glance at the service manual shows I was wrong about something. I thought there are 3 gas lines and one thermocouple coming from the control. The lines 'look' like that but the service manual, and a little thought, reveal that to be wrong. There are 2 gas lines and 2 thermo lines - except it sure looked like 3 and 1 when I swapped control units. 4) I'll get back on it tomorrow.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Wedgewood oven problem
Drew, Thanks. The knob itself indicates it should be held in to light the pilot. That is what I'm doing - doing it in the indicated position. I think I know what I'm doing - not the only appliance I have that works that way - but user error seems most likely. How can I add pictures here - simply copy and past?1.4KViews0likes0CommentsWedgewood oven problem
Model RV1735SSPS mfg 2013 Installed 2015 Northern Lite TC I purchased camper (virtually unused) 2019 Oven doesn't work. It appears the oven has never worked. Pilot and main burner do not light. Stove top burners work properly. Trouble shooting: Oven control is fed gas through the same manifold that feeds stove top burners. Stove top burners work properly. Loosening the screw that holds the oven control unit in the manifold produces a leak that is easily lighted - so, LPG is getting to oven control unit. There are 3 lines from controller to oven: one line feeds the main burner; there are two lines to the pilot assembly - one copper, one aluminum. (The copper line is neatly pinched in a way that makes it look intended. Two lines makes no sense to me) Loosening the control unit outlet lines and turning/depressing the oven control knob in the pilot, and all other positions, produces no gas at the controller's output ports. There is no gas at any of the 3 output ports. I've ensured the oven control is fully depressed and I've warmed the pilot light thermo-couple with a torch and get zero gas flow. The lack of gas anywhere seemed strange and unlikely to me, however, a repair, or new control unit, appeared to be the obvious solution. I bought and installed a new control unit, hoping to repair and keep the old unit as a spare. The new control unit gives the same result as the original control unit; gas at the controller inlet connection, but no gas at the controller outlet ports no matter what control knob manipulation is done. The obvious conclusion is that both control units are bad with the same fault. Unless I hear that this control problem is common, I deem that highly unlikely. That leaves me stumped. So please, can anyone enlighten me on what is wrong? Is there a known repair for this control unit problem?4.3KViews0likes11Comments
Groups
Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 13, 202544,029 Posts
