All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Install New Charge Controller close to batteries BFL13 wrote: The OP is on the right track, but does not need to do anything with his OEM converter. Just use the new deck mount converter as a portable charger powered from the generator as required off grid for a fast recharge "50-90" Make sure the gen has enough VA to run the charger. A 2000w inverter gen is about maxed out with about a 70a non-PF corrected charger. The PD 80 amper is non-PF corrected. Some say they have run an 80 amp PD with a Honda 2000. I don't know how! I have a 3000w Honda to run my PF corrected 100 amper. I doubt a 2000w could run it at all. Use the OEM converter when plugged in on shore power, same as always. There are other choices besides a PD, but whatever floats your boat. I use an adjustable PowerMax on the batts in the front of the 5er when off grid. Now I feel I am getting close...Thanks So if I leave OEM Charger / Converter in place and on shore power...don't I need to disconnect the wires from the old single battery that I am replacing with the new bank of 4 6v batts? And that same bank has the new (Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard) attached to them also? Just wondering if there is a voltage feedback, or other issues having both connected? We are doing many weeks of Boondocking and dry camping this spring and summer - and forever, so we want to be able to get the batts charge up, when needed, quick. I have a 3500 peak, 3100 running Champion Duel Fuel Gen. So that should get us up and going, AC too if needed.Re: Install New Charge Controller close to batteries PatrickA51 wrote: Boon Docker wrote: It seems like you are a bit confused. If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare. What he said x 2 Hi, I am installing 4 6v Trojan t105 batteries, solar, and inverter. I see over and over on installs for the Charge Converter that it is best to install very close to battery bank with larger wire than on existing. Also read that Stock WFCO will take all day on generator to charge the 4 batt bank as opposed to 2 hours on Generator. Fan noise in living area and other more intelligent charging on $600 battery set are just a few added benefits. Article and video doesn't address removing old, and that is my main question. Can I just take out, Put new one close to batteries and then - Use thick Gage short run to charge batteries and......then run low voltage back - long run to the Control panel to where I removed Old 12v wires? Has anyone done this. So many videos on solar installs showing relocated Power Converters? Here is one on many articles: How I Installed the INTELI-POWER Converter Found here: http://www.loveyourrv.com/installing-the-inteli-power-pd9260-for-improved-rv-battery-charging/ I decided to install the new converter in our fifth wheels front storage compartment as close to the battery bank as possible. This accomplished 2 important things for me. One it reduces the power losses due to wiring, my old converter is under the stove and about 20 feet of wire away. Two, we don’t have to hear the cooling fan noise. The OEM converters fan is most annoying since it is located in our living area. When using the new converter, I’ll plug it into my generator using an extension cord run out of the front compartment. Down the road, I plan to add an outside receptacle for convenience. "Testing Out the New Battery Charger I was able to test out my new converter charger pretty quickly. Soon after installing it our desert boondocking skies became cloudy and a rain storm moved in. The next morning it was still socked in and our battery bank was pretty depleted. I tried charging the batteries with the old converter versus the new INTELI-POWER on both auto and manual boost mode. The old converter was charging at 13.4 volts and 10.8 amps. The new PD9260CV converter charged at 13.6 volts and 27.6 amps, and then when manual boost was activated I saw 14.4 volts at over 40 amps! I was impressed. This will mean much-reduced generator run time when charging." Here is another: "All inverters need to be installed as close to the battery bank as possible without being inside with the batteries. Make sure all wiring is large enough for the inverter load and protected by fuses or breakers." Sound here: http://mobilehomesteading.com/category/rv-tips/ Go to number #8Install New Charge Controller close to batteriesI am looking to install the New InetiPower 60Amp Charge Controller close to batteries as that is best for faster charging. I am wondering about taking out old charge controller under stove. Can I just disconnect all wires and remove it? I was thinking that it is needed to power 12V system when we have hookups? Then I wondering about how we charge batteries when hooked up to shore power, with relocated Charge Controller? Second Cord just to the Converter? Or how I might grab power that is part of the system when we are hooked up. At the end of the day my goal is to: 1) Relocate Charge Controller location 2) be able to plug RV into Shore power and have batteries getting charged. 3) be able to plug RV main Plug into Champion Generator and have batteries getting charged. 4) Have New Charge Controller close to batter bank in front Storage (4 6v Trojans)Re: Underbelly - Proper way to access Rich&Mar wrote: Am I missing something? You say it's a 2018, I'd take it back to the dealer with this concern and let them fix it or explain what's going on. I would not start cutting on a 2018. My 2 cents. rich Oh, I agree. Just want to know myself what is going on if I can. They will have it for a week. Also two weeks to get it into a repair slot.Re: Underbelly - Proper way to accessI was reading this and saw that this was the case with a new Keystone RV: http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31597&page=2 Very similar to my issue. Wanted to check.Underbelly - Proper way to accessHi, I need to look behind the underbelly of the trailer for a disconnected heater duct on my new 2018 Cougar 25RES Looking at the underbelly it seems to some type of rivet, not a screw head, that holds the plastic liner. I have add a closeup photo of the attachments. What is the best way to to remove these attachments and the replace underbelly so it stays put? Re: Tonneau Cover Retractable that will work with 5W Hitch padredw wrote: Check out the BAKFlip VP cover. Although we don't have a 5th wheel we do have this cover and I believe it works well with 5th wheel hitches. I can assure you that the BakFlip works well with our fifth-wheel hitch. We do have a "long bed" pickup. I bought through Amazon and installed it myself with a little help from my daughter (lifting the heavy parts). It looks like you need to have it folded up covering the window? Doesn't that interfere with hitching?Tonneau Cover Retractable that will work with 5W HitchHi, I am looking to get a retractable tonneau cover that will work with my Chevy 3500 Short bed and 5th Wheel Hitch. I have heard that sometimes there is not enough room for hitch (mine is Curtis Slider) and the area need for the roll up. Anybody using one without problems? I am not talking about the height of the hitch. Just the room you need for the roller box behind window and hitch. Thanks TomFurnace not sending heat to front of 5W - Is it broken?Hi, First time out with new 5th wheel. We ran the heater and did not get any heat to run to the front of cabin, bedroom and bathroom. This is a new cougar 5th wheel. It has ducted heating and two thermostats. We have a second air conditioner on the bedroom but event though there is a heat option on it no heat would every turn of from that controller. Thinking it was just for the front Air Conditioner. What is the typical way the air goes to the front? Is it a damper system? And how or where might I control the diversion of the air flow to the front?Fresh Water Holding Tank - Do I need to keep water in it?Hi, New 5th wheel owner. Wondering if I need to keep water in the fresh water holding tank for any reason other than, I might need water to drink or flush a toilet in an emergency. But today I struck camp to head home from my first trip out with out new cougar 5th wheel. We were only a few hours drive from how and I was thinking of draining the 60 gallon tank for the drive home. Is there a reason for priming the water pumps of other that I should or should not completely drain?
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