Install New Charge Controller close to batteries

It seems like you are a bit confused.
If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare.

Tommygun714

From your profile, I get the impression that your 5er. is a 2018 model. What is wrong with the charger that is in it? :h
If you want a new charger controller I would say just remove the one that's there and replace it in the same location. :S Get what you want but I would say inho, put it back where it's located. Least amount of work and wiring. :W

Boon Docker wrote:
It seems like you are a bit confused.
If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare.

What he said x 2

tommygun714 wrote:
4) Have New Charge Controller close to batter bank in front Storage (4 6v Trojans)

I recommend the PD9280-C 14.8

Plan on using #4 wire.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-wire/marine-battery-cable/4-awg-gauge-marine-battery-cable

PatrickA51 wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:
It seems like you are a bit confused.
If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare.

What he said x 2

Hi,

I am installing 4 6v Trojan t105 batteries, solar, and inverter.

I see over and over on installs for the Charge Converter that it is best to install very close to battery bank with larger wire than on existing. Also read that Stock WFCO will take all day on generator to charge the 4 batt bank as opposed to 2 hours on Generator. Fan noise in living area and other more intelligent charging on $600 battery set are just a few added benefits.

Article and video doesn't address removing old, and that is my main question. Can I just take out, Put new one close to batteries and then - Use thick Gage short run to charge batteries and......then run low voltage back - long run to the Control panel to where I removed Old 12v wires? Has anyone done this. So many videos on solar installs showing relocated Power Converters?

Here is one on many articles:

How I Installed the INTELI-POWER Converter

Found here: http://www.loveyourrv.com/installing-the-inteli-power-pd9260-for-improved-rv-battery-charging/

I decided to install the new converter in our fifth wheels front storage compartment as close to the battery bank as possible. This accomplished 2 important things for me. One it reduces the power losses due to wiring, my old converter is under the stove and about 20 feet of wire away. Two, we don’t have to hear the cooling fan noise. The OEM converters fan is most annoying since it is located in our living area. When using the new converter, I’ll plug it into my generator using an extension cord run out of the front compartment. Down the road, I plan to add an outside receptacle for convenience.

"Testing Out the New Battery Charger
I was able to test out my new converter charger pretty quickly. Soon after installing it our desert boondocking skies became cloudy and a rain storm moved in. The next morning it was still socked in and our battery bank was pretty depleted. I tried charging the batteries with the old converter versus the new INTELI-POWER on both auto and manual boost mode. The old converter was charging at 13.4 volts and 10.8 amps. The new PD9260CV converter charged at 13.6 volts and 27.6 amps, and then when manual boost was activated I saw 14.4 volts at over 40 amps! I was impressed. This will mean much-reduced generator run time when charging."

Here is another:

"All inverters need to be installed as close to the battery bank as possible without being inside with the batteries. Make sure all wiring is large enough for the inverter load and protected by fuses or breakers."

Sound here: http://mobilehomesteading.com/category/rv-tips/

Go to number #8

According to Google, there's no such thing as a "New InetiPower 60Amp Charge Controller."

mike-s wrote:
According to Google, there's no such thing as a "New InetiPower 60Amp Charge Controller."

It is a 60 amp Converter.

The OP is on the right track, but does not need to do anything with his OEM converter. Just use the new deck mount converter as a portable charger powered from the generator as required off grid for a fast recharge "50-90"

Make sure the gen has enough VA to run the charger. A 2000w inverter gen is about maxed out with about a 70a non-PF corrected charger. The PD 80 amper is non-PF corrected. Some say they have run an 80 amp PD with a Honda 2000. I don't know how!

I have a 3000w Honda to run my PF corrected 100 amper. I doubt a 2000w could run it at all.

Use the OEM converter when plugged in on shore power, same as always.

There are other choices besides a PD, but whatever floats your boat. I use an adjustable PowerMax on the batts in the front of the 5er when off grid.

BFL13 wrote:
The OP is on the right track, but does not need to do anything with his OEM converter. Just use the new deck mount converter as a portable charger powered from the generator as required off grid for a fast recharge "50-90"

Make sure the gen has enough VA to run the charger. A 2000w inverter gen is about maxed out with about a 70a non-PF corrected charger. The PD 80 amper is non-PF corrected. Some say they have run an 80 amp PD with a Honda 2000. I don't know how!

I have a 3000w Honda to run my PF corrected 100 amper. I doubt a 2000w could run it at all.

Use the OEM converter when plugged in on shore power, same as always.

There are other choices besides a PD, but whatever floats your boat. I use an adjustable PowerMax on the batts in the front of the 5er when off grid.

Now I feel I am getting close...Thanks

So if I leave OEM Charger / Converter in place and on shore power...don't I need to disconnect the wires from the old single battery that I am replacing with the new bank of 4 6v batts? And that same bank has the new (Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard) attached to them also? Just wondering if there is a voltage feedback, or other issues having both connected? We are doing many weeks of Boondocking and dry camping this spring and summer - and forever, so we want to be able to get the batts charge up, when needed, quick.

I have a 3500 peak, 3100 running Champion Duel Fuel Gen. So that should get us up and going, AC too if needed.

Use the same battery to OEM fuse panel (which the OEM converter is also connected to) wiring, with your new battery bank as is there now with the old battery. The wires have enough ampacity to run the 12v rig systems so no reason to change that.

Use new fat wires with your new converter up front to the big battery bank to take the high amps of the new converter. Say three feet each #4, but IMO use #1 AWG to get the most out of the deal. Don't need fatter.

You don't need to rig a 120v receptacle up front to run the new converter since it will only ever be needed when off grid and then you run it by plugging it into your gen (via extension cord as required)

Put your solar controller up by the new battery bank and you can share the fat wires from converter to battery with the controller's output to battery run. Just go from controller output to new converter (when not a portable!) and then share from converter-battery.

If you have an inverter, now you put that up there too and the fat inverter-battery wires can also be the converter and controller wires to the battery by using a positive buss to collect all the pos wires and then a single fat wire to the batts. The negs all go to the Trimetric shunt or maybe a neg buss first if too many lugs to stack, then single fat wire from buss to shunt and from shunt to batt.

Don't forget, if you have a shunt, to move the existing battery to frame neg "ground" wire from the frame to the outer end of the shunt and then just have the inner end of the shunt to neg batt post.

BTW, your gen will run this PF corrected 100 amper which can be set to 14.8v (the usual desired absorption voltage for doing a 50-90) by using the pot in the little hole in the side as shown. (or any other desired voltage that meets your battery specs) So it works like the one in my photo above. Check the price compared with that PD 80 amper or whatever you are looking at now. ( However, as said, whatever floats your boat)

https://www.amazon.com/Powermax-PM3-100LK-Power-Supply-Light/dp/B01MS4F5QT/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521245823&sr=8-13&keywords=PowerMax+converter