Rineholio
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Re: WW Repairs
Take a wheel bearing to NAPA or something like that. They will measure it and hook you up. No matter what the service, no matter how hard I try, no matter what I do, my trailer is about 1000lb over claimed according to the new sticker WW sent me, and useless for its original intent. Of course they're stoked to sell parts. What good would it do them to let them sit on the shelves and lose money? I'd be service oriented too if I had any in my garage. Are they even WW parts or are they for Dometic...?330Views0likes0CommentsRe: WW Repairs
One more thing: I just looked under my trailer. The fresh water drain pipe rides on the front axle. As the axle moves up and down over bumps, it rubs the plastic tube. Mine is almost rubbed through. If I had been carrying water, and a hole developed, it would have all run out. Last but not least, if your trailer is wired like mine, and you pull the emergency brake actuator, the wire will burn up within about 15 seconds. You won't be able to stick the spacer back into the emergency actuator because it will have melted long before that. I found this out on a roadtrip when I lost my trailer brakes. I troubleshot down to the point where I had to know if it was the trailer or the controller. I unhooked the emergency pin so the trailer brakes would activate, moved the truck forward, and felt the brakes on the trailer working. Before I could even turn off the truck, my father-in-law was yelling and cutting wires with dikes. The wiring was so hot the insulation was burning away and you could see how far it made it before he cut the wires. Apparently, when the break-away switch is activated, full battery amperage is applied, the wiring fries, and you won't have brakes for very long. Not that I guess it would really matter if your trailer had seperated from your tow vehicle and was cruising down the road by itself. That was $365 and the trailer repair shop shook their heads in disbelief that an emergency break-away switch was wired that way. The bill would have been far more if my father in law hadn't acted so quickly. This is another item I am bringing attention to the DOT/NTSB...335Views0likes0CommentsRe: WW Repairs
Just for info: The Class V Tow-Beast hitch is rated for 1,200lbs. tongue weight without load carrying bars, with a max gross trailer weight of 12,000lbs. With class V distribution bars, the hitch can hold a maximum of 1,700 lbs. with a max gross trailer weight of 14,000 lbs. That means a maximum of 13% tongue weight at 13,000 gross on my FS3000 with the bars. My trailer dry weight was understated by about 1,000 lbs. This information and new weight was sent to me by WW. WW sold me an entirely different trailer than they advertised. My FS 3000 lacks sufficient strength to support its load even if I don't exceed max gross weight. It carries 1,000 lbs. less cargo than it is supposed to because it weighs 1,000 lbs. more dry than stated. Each axle is also rated for 4,333 lbs. according to the weight tag on my trailer, which makes them 1 lb. short of what the max gross of my trailer is. How would you like that if it was an airplane? I'm going to check with the class action suit guys to get the latest, but I don't think I can get anywhere close to what I deserve, and the resale on my trailer is shot. I haven't joined the suit yet. Deleted as per the Open Roads Forum Rules & Policies #8. Posts are not allowed in which a local or state consumer action board and/or legal consul is/have been involved. This includes posts related to future, ongoing or past lawsuits. As stated in the 1st post we are allowing the Class Action discussion but talk of lawsuits beyond that is not okay.335Views0likes0CommentsRe: WW Repairs
I just reread my post and saw the same thing written twice. At least Racor has some sort of excuse. I hope someone posts about the hearing. I'm going to hit the website tomorrow, and if no info their, I'm going to call that same lawyer back. He was really nice and informative, even though he was buried in processing claims paperwork. I'm really concerned about the resale value as well. I'm buying a boat next year, and I want to sell the trailer and buy a pop up camper. My wife loves it though because of all the memories and wants to keep it and get a camper. I told her to pick some good numbers for the lotto. Thanks everyone for expressing your concerns and providing info. I'll keep reading, and get back if I learn anything someone else hasn't already posted. Jeff394Views0likes0CommentsRe: WW Repairs
Excellent point! I grease my pivot points regularly, but I've never really thought out how things are attached. It's 14 degrees outside with some snow, but I'm going to climb under tomorrow and check it out. I'm waiting to take it to the weigh station until I can dewinterize a little. We're full-timing until we buy a house. I'll let you know what I find. I'm going to hit the weigh station again as soon as the snow melts and it gets above freezing on a regular basis. We're full-timing until we buy a hosue. I didn't catch if you had twin axles or triple axles. I have three. Maybe they're different? I hear you about the brakes and being level. My trailer towed beautifully when it was new and straight. I'll try to recheck the weights soon. If the axles don't interact spring wise, they should all be close. Maybe I just recorded it wrong. Jeff421Views0likes0CommentsRe: WW Repairs
More thoughts on loading and tires. I also included info that can be used if you protest the settlement, deal with WW, or go it with a private attorney. 1. Trailers half to have relatively equal weight on all axles, or loads on one may be excessive and result in failure. Especially the tires. 2. If I level my trailer on flat ground, and there is equal weight on all axles, my trailer is properly loaded-as long as it's not over max gross weight. 40/60, I don't know. This why the 15%ish tongue weight will work. Individual trailers may have to be adjusted up or down a little for maximum stability. 3. The last time I was on the weigh scale, I grossed exactly 12,000lbs., with 1550lbs on the tongue. That's 13% of gross. However, my front axle was carrying much more weight than the rear and my trailer body was tilting down just a little because I had upgraded to heavier E-rated tires, which were slightly taller than the 15 inch stock ones (1 inch in diameter, 1/2" taller). Hitch was still set at the old tire height. I couldn't get the axles weighted evenly unless I raised the trailer to a very high nose up attitude. Then the tongue was light. I shifted as much weight forward as I could, but couldn't make it stable. I upgraded my original tires because they disintegrated at about 8000 miles. I thought the new tires and wheels would fix the stability problem. Wrong. My trailer that towed like an arrow when new is still not safe to tow above 50-60mph depending on wind, trucks... It did improve with the new tires, but is still unstable to tow, and as stated, I can't adjust it out. Even though the trailer hasn't physically failed, it is still unsafe because of the stability issue. I'm not going 2400 miles to let the Perris facility install what Raphael called a gusset when he talked to me. Plus the drive would would be risky, and would probably ruin the tires. Reflecting on this, my tiny little brain came up with some thoughts. 1. My axle center line may not be correct. 2. The axles are installed so that when the trailer is level, the axles are actually spring loaded to the front, overloading the front axle and making the rear light. 3. Something to do with a bent frame. I know the tongue bends up from the frame rail they curved to make the triangle. I checked it with a bubble guage. It was maxed. Plus you can see it. I should have figured it out before the class action paperwork tipped me off. I had already begun to shorten the chain on my weight distribution bars in an effort to transfer weight. That should have set off warning bells, but I just figured the bars were losing their strength. Wrong. 4. Loading is not correct due to one or more of the above. My thoughts. *** The tongue is bent upwards This increases the load on the front axles when the trailer body is set level. It makes the weight distribution bars less effective. Deformation also makes the frame even weaker. *** Had my tongue not been bent, the trailer body would have been tilted up instead of being level, which would have shifted the load towards the rear axle, helping to balance the trailer, but also reducing my tongue weight. Remember the seesaw guy? I experimented with loads at the weigh station when it was new. Very hard to get down to 11%. Need empty tanks, and really abusive rear loading. It needs more to tow properly. I don't think you could even achieve that with any kind of typical loading. With a straight tongue, its weight would have been close to 11%, as the balance would have been shifted aft, partially unloading the tongue. Remember the guy moving around on the seesaw? Hopefully when the tongue is straight, the axle loads will be equal when the trailer is level. If not, I believe it's because the springs supporting the suspension are installed in a tilted fashion that loads the front axles more than the rear. Not good. If the trailer is level and the axles weighted correctly, I can change tongue weight without changinging the axle balance. The hitch will pick up or lose the extra weight, and the now functioning weight distribution bars will adjust the axle loading of the truck accordingly. Now the trailer can be adjusted to tow well, regardless of weight (below max gross). All that needs to be done is to set the hitch so the trailer is level and adjust the tongue weight until it tows straight and true. If I add more weight, I lower the hitch a little and adjust tongue weight. If I decrease my weight, it's the opposite. Tire problems: Tire load rating is based on the number of plies and the heat a tire can stand before the plies delaminate. This can happen without any visual clues. That's how a blowout can occur even when the tire appears new. The tire probably wasn't defective. It was just insufficient for the heat it generated. Tire manufacturers can use better construction/materials, or put a speed restriction on the tire to control the heat. Higher speeds=higher heat. Check out a NASCAR race and listen to tire comments. Many trailer tires have an ST right behind the size (my stock WW tires, for example.) That limits them to 65mph which limits the heat the tire can be subjected to. From all my research I've reached the opinion that an ST rated tire is cheaply built-seriously. Either less plies or lessor construction materials. Tires without the ST have to be safe at speeds over 100mph. In other words, they can handle more heat, or don't get as hot. It's federal law. I believe they do it to provide a safety margin for drivers traveling at regular speeds. I'm OK with 65 if it's a bias ply trailer tire. The bias design makes them run hotter, and there is only so much you can do to support a load and shed heat, while still maintaining an acceptable cost for those. Again, too much heat makes tires fail, even racing tires. IMHO, Weekend Warrior used tire and wheel combos that were inadequate for real life. They did not provide enough margin of safety to adequately account for hot desert freeway driving, high national speed limits, and trailer loading that isn't perfect, but is within limits. If an axle gets weighted so that tires are near their load limit, those tires will run hotter. Remember. If you have enough plies to handle the load, and they're correctly built, then only excess temperature will cause them to delaminate (or they are too many years old and the laminating material is failing). Conditions that generate extra heat have to be taken into consideration. I'm sure the tires were rated at some standard temperature, and not worst case. Cheaper tires at same rating equals more margin of profit. Your engine will do the same thing. If the cooling system can't handle the heat, it will boil over. Keep driving and you'll destroy your engine in short time. I replaced my stock D rated 15" wheels and tires with 16" wheels and E-rated Michelin Ribs. They have ten plies, several steel belted, at least one of which is in the sidewall. They're rated for the over 100mph speed. I'm sick of changing flats on crowded freeways. I'm lucky I haven't crashed or been been hit by a car. I researched tires and found nothing in 15" that is E-rated. Even if I had, I doubt the wheels on my trailer are rated for 80psi. That's right. Not all rims will safely hold 80psi. I found that out when I was talking to a local tire guy. I urge all WW owners to do the following. Write a settlement protest letter to the class action lawsuit group about these concerns. I don't think it matters whether or not you have joined the suit. We need compensation to step up to new rims and tires instead of just $100 each for every tire that blew out, up to a maximum of six. Some of you might only be able to step from a C to a D rating because larger sizes won't fit. Wasn't a factor on mine. I find it hard to believe that all seven of my tires failed almost simultaneously. There has to be a problem. The Tire Rack has tons of information on this topic if you want to research. There is also a fair settlement hearing in Orange county on Feb 22. If you can make it, please relate this and whatever else you've got. I talked to one of the lawyers in the suit. He was very smart, but did not know much about trailering. I even helped explain trailer basics, pointed him to his owner's manual, talked about weight ratings... because he wanted to start towing behind his mid-sized SUV. It's the first time for him. If we don't educate the lawyers, they can't help. Right now, settlement payments can be changed. I also think we should be given a lifetime transferable warranty on the fix if it fails from regular use. Without it our trailers will lose a lot of resale value, and be much harder to sell. Many wouldn't even call to check it out. If you have more info we can use, please post, and if I made some mistakes, feel free to point them out. I will not be offended. This forum is for proper discourse of ideas, whether or not we agree with each other. I may have stated an opinion as fact, or a fact as an opinion. I'm not the world's best writer. By the way, sorry for all the errors in the last post. I had just jammed some fingers and things weren't going well on the keyboard. Jeff421Views0likes0CommentsRe: WW Repairs
FYI When I contacted Weekend Warrior about fixing my trailer, transport to Perris, and compensation for the heavier rated tires I purchased, they had Raphael call me back. He said I could bring it in (2400 miles round trip)and get it fixed, or join the law suit. That was it. No tranportation or anything else. He was not courteous on the phone, and made zero effort to help me. Regarding what they did to repair it he replied "We add a gusset." No frame straightening. Just some reinforcement. If you get him, I suggest asking for his boss and working up the chain until you find somebody who might help. I talked with a class action lawyer and he said that WW is training "techs" from their other dealers to put on the prophelatic fix, so for what it's worth, you might be able to find a closer place to get it fixed. The lawyer also told me that unless you upgraded to a higher rated tire, such as D to E, that there would be no compensation. If you do receive compensation (for up to six tires) you get $100 bucks a piece. According to him, I'm entitled to the frame fix, $600 bucks for tires, and cosmetic repair if caused by the bending frame. By the way, my new WW weight information recommended the same rated tires the trailer was equipped with when I picked it up. To my knowledge, there are no higer rated 15" tires than D. I perused tirerack and every other tire place I could. No joy. Mine disintegrated early on, and I replaced them with 16" rims and Michelin E rated Ribs. Not cheap, but I don't have tread flying all over the place either. My tongue is bent upwards, and I think the frame is twisted a little. When new it towed straight and true. Now it sways like a willow in the wind. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Please comment on this: Today I received a new unladen vehicle weight for my FS 3000 showing it is 1000lbs heavier than originally stated. It sucks, but I already knew that because I weigh mine on a weigh station periodically. The other item concerning weight was their new trailer loading requirement I quote: "PLACE 60% OF LOAD FORWARD OF AXLE CENTER LINE Failure to distribute load properly will result in an unstable towing condition." I can't see how this determines toungue weight. Unless you know the stations where the weight is distributed in the front and back, and can adjust weight to get it evenly spread out the toungue weight will vary. I don't know how much. How I think I understand it. Imagine two kids on a seesaw with a pivot (axle center line) in the middle. One kid weighs 40lbs, the other weighs 60lbs. Add them together, and we get lucky and find that 100lbs equals 100% of our weight. The 40lb kid is the rear of the trailer, the 60lb kid is the front. Easy concept now: Think of that old wooden seesaw as a Weekend Warrior trailer, and the kids as the 40/60 load. Also see that seesaw as having a pivot point which makes the heavy kid's side longer, and the lighter kid's side shorter. This is like moving your center line axle more towards the rear of the trailer. That makes the heavier kid appear even heavier because the longer board gives him added leverage. Trailers have to be this way to be towable, and so that they don't flip backwards after you unhitch and walk to the rear. Problem: Think what happens if the heavier kid moves around. The end of the board is the tongue of the trailer, and the pivot is the center line axle. Even though he weighs the same 60lb, he changes the tongue weight. As he moves towards the pivot point, the tongue gets lighter. As he moves toward the "front," the tongue load increases. Again, the percentage of load in the front didn't change. Just its location. My questons are, what happened to the 10-15% formula? How can I achieve 40/60 since where I put the load affects the tounge weight, and without that I can't think of a reference to balance the trailer fore and aft of the axle center line. If anyone can explain this, please do. Weekend Warrior just won't help me. If anyone has a good lawyer in California and is initiating an individual lawsuit, please pm me. Actually I'd settle for a Weekend Warrior settlement if they'd let me fix whatever I found wrong locally and compensate me fairly for the tires and wheels I had to replacde. Right now my trailer tows terribly, and has some problems resulting from the frame bending. I'm going to get it surveyed, repairs estimated, and go to court myself unless Weekend Warrior can come up with a solution I'll accept. $600 for tires and a "gusset" doesn't do it for me. Jeff P.S. Sorry if this post is disorganized. I'm beat.421Views0likes0Comments
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