Winnipeg
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Re: Electrical issue on 50amp service
Great discussion and information. We are at an RV park and our auto transfer was jumping in and out last night. Never had a problem with it before so I disconnected for the night and used batteries and propane. This morning I dug out a volt monitor (very handy, just plug in and look at it occasionally), and I noticed the power generally a little high, average 126v. We also picked up an inline 50a surge protector. Power was OK all day until about 6pm, then the transfer started jumping in and out again and I saw volts go up to about 160. Yikes! On my dash to shut off the main I noticed the surge protector indicator lights were steady blue/green (normal) with occasional red (Open neutral). A few simple tools revealed the problem. It's easy to get lazy about monitoring your connections, especially if you have never had a problem. But it is no fun doing repairs while on vacation. BTW, we blew out a water line 2 years ago due to water pressure surge and not using a regulator. What a pain to repair that, not to mention no water for the remainder of the trip. And...I still forget to use the regular.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Water line burst
Thanks for so many helpful responses. We were lucky that it was a T fitting that came apart in the water bay. Not easy to get at, but at least it wasn't inside the walls or in the slide. Fixed at home in the driveway in about 5 hours (We work slow). While apart, we found another fitting that was leaking. And, the 110v outlet in the water bay (domb to install one there) was sealed on the front, but the box was not sealed at the back. All fixed now. I ordered a $50 Camco regulator with a built in gauge. Not sure if that qualifies as a "good" regulator, but the next better at Lowes was oversized, $100 plus gauge and fittings. The extra cost and install time didn't look like a good way to go.735Views0likes0CommentsWater line burst
We never use those little brass water pressure regulators. They cut to water flow too much. Been RVing for 20 years and never had a problem. This week when I hooked up, I noticed that we had "really good pressure", but I didn't give it a second thought. When we got back to the RV today, there was no water. Checked the valve and found that (a) someone had turned off our water, and (b) water was pouring out of the RV's water bay once we turned the water back on. So...no water. The upside is that the break appears to be in the water bay, so with any luck there is no water damage. But, finding and fixing the break could be a challenge. We can still get "emergency water" by running the pump, but half the water dumps out into the water bay while the pump is running. We will be home in a few days and can do the repairs then. Going forward, what is the best option: a) Continue without the regulator and pay more attention when pressure is high. After all, it worked for 20 years. b) Fill the tank with campground water and then only use the water pump. I hate putting "strange" water into the fresh water tank. c) Use the regulator/campground water for most things and then boost the pressure with the pump when taking showers. What are your thoughts on this? Paul5.2KViews0likes24CommentsRe: Why have I dealt with this charger for 13 years?
Mordicai81 has a good suggestion. Keep in mind that oem converter is only as good as needed to get you to buy and make it through the warranty year. And, if you are usually using hookups it will be fine. If you are off grid, you need the charge time to be useful. A good 60 amp charger should run on your 2000i Honda. Bring the "good" charger and gen when you need, and use the built in converter when you have hookups. But, be careful shopping for a charger, they advertise peek amps that are unrealistic. Some say 80 amps and are really only 20.407Views0likes0CommentsRe: Skirt or Bra or More?
I made a diy version of the "protect a tow", you can find instructions on line. What a waste of time and money. It was much too flimsy. It went in the trash with zero miles on it. We also tried a hard rubber flap at the back of the motor home. It was too low and did major damage to the Jeep. I still like this option, but you have to keep it way up off the road. We applied some clear, spray-on film on the fenders. It seams to work, but it is a pain to remove and left on is not much better than looking at a few stone chips. When we know the roadsare going to be bad, we use a bra. It's a pain trying to keep dirt away from the paint, and you cannot leave it on (scratches), but you sometimes have to choose one damage over another.777Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tiffin service - WOW!
OP here. Nice to hear so many similar stories. Just to clarify, I didn't have to "get the big guy involved" to get help. I was not satisfied with the dealer, so I called Tiffin and told the person who answered that I have a problem and I don't know who to talk to. Without hesitation, she said "I will put you through to Bob". I had no idea it would be Bob Tiffin. Bob personally called the new shop to pre-arrange my service appointment. Amazing.637Views0likes0CommentsTiffin service - WOW!
We bought a new 2017 Tiffin last fall. There were many little (and medium sized) problems that we identified during the first 2 months and we booked it into the dealer's repair shop to (hopefully) get EVERYTHING fixed. It didn't happen. The dealer had it for months and made very little progress and didn't do a good job on the things they "fixed". I called Tiffin to inquire about how to resolve it. They immediately transferred me to Bob Tiffin (yes, the founder / CEO). He personally arranged for a different (non-dealer) repair shop to finish up the repairs. This is our 4th RV, we always buy new and there are always things to fix on a new RV. And, (in our experience) it has always been a huge challenge trying to get dealers to fix things. But, I never had "Mr. Winnebago" or "Ms. Thor" help me out. We heard tales like this before we bought a Tiffin. We never completely believed that an RV manufacturer would be so helpful. The stories are true!4.1KViews0likes21CommentsGas engine vs. Gas engine (not diesel)
I know the debate over gas vs. diesel has been done MANY times, and most agree that diesel is "better", but more $$$$. We were ready to trade our 10 year old Winnebago Class C to move to a Class A. Our budget was low $100k range, so although new diesel pushers were tempting, they are beyond our budget. And, we were not interested in a 10 to 15 year old DP. So, our options were new Class A gas or maybe a Class B Sprinter type. The Sprinters were too small. My big concern was, how much of a dog would a Class A gas unit be? Its basically the same power train (Ford V10) as on the Class C and MUCH heavier. I guess the old rig loaded up (with towed) was about 17,000 pounds GCVW and the new about 24,000. That's a big increase! The only difference in the drive train (that I know of) is that the Class A chassis get an extra valve in each cylinder and Ford has upgraded the transmission from 5-speed to 6-speed. I thought I would HATE going up mountains (Southern California). Much to my delight, the new unit performs about the same as the old one, even with so much more weight to move. I am sure it burns more fuel, but I don't track that. An added bonus is that while the old unit had a somewhat unpleasant roar when working, the new one has a deeper rumble to it. I am sure there are other differences, but overall, I am very happy that the new V10 does a lot more work than the old V10.2.8KViews0likes12Comments
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