rambleonrose
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Re: Odd size brake replacement suggestions
Grit dog wrote: And I've taken my own parts to a shop before, no problem. Sometimes a shop will request I get the part "I want." Generally not stock parts though. Sounds like the shop doesn't want your business either because they are full up or because they don't want a "project." Which, IMO is a fair stance to take, if not hurting for work. When working on an old vehicle that someone isn't maybe prepared to spend alot of money on (getting an old van "up and running" vs rebuilding or restoring a classic vehicle), the shop sees it as a risk if they determine that a vehicle that isn't worth much, suddenly needs more work than the owner is willing to pay for given the value of the vehicle. If you can be very clear in your communication and expectations, maybe have to put some money down on the work if the shop sees it as risky, you may be able to get the work done. But I've gotten parts for and done brake work on 2 different 70s Chevy trucks in recent months. This wouldn't surprise me. It's spring, and everyone is getting their rig ready to go. I would consider whole wheels if the price were right. A quick search online for my sizes showed 115-130 per tire, x6. Not sure if I'm missing any info besides the numbers, like loading or anything, but that's the preliminary search. I've only worked on regular cars/trucks, so this is new turf for me.464Views0likes0CommentsRe: Odd size brake replacement suggestions
lwbfl wrote: rambleonrose wrote: Getting our old Class C up and running again, and I've hit a brick wall with brake replacement. It's a Chevy C30 van body, 16.5 rims. One of the back brakes is seized. We've called pretty much everywhere around, and no one wants to touch it because parts would be so hard to find (odd size, apparently....) Has anyone bought their own parts and taken it to a shop before with any luck? Also, any recommendations for searching for these? That's the best way to make sure you get the right replacement parts, take the old ones with you. People take the parts to their shop all the time, but it isn't any cheaper. I deliver parts from the store to the shop, they get a discount and charge you more than we do for the part. I had the same chassis, you'll be surprised how simple it is to fix yourself (but everything is heavy). I'm not even 100% sure which ones to get. It's not like I can throw her up on a lift and pull off the tire. It would be infinitely easier if I could, and if I could, I'd just do my own brakes. And I did call three different places, and got the same response (which, I'll add, I've gotten at auto repair places as well....) if their suppliers don't stock it, they can't get it. Yeah, sounds like a crock of **** to me, too, but if that's their policy, there's not much I can do about it. As for the tires, two of the places said it would be easypeasy. If I were to get them myself, just a quick search looked fairly promising as well. As this is a vehicle I've not worked on a lot (unlike my jeep, Beetle, etc) I feel like I'm flying a little blind when it comes to replacement parts. And being the ?th owner, there's definitely no manual of any kind. Thanks for the input, though, I'm going to do some researching online, and maybe come back with a few Qs.463Views0likes0CommentsOdd size brake replacement suggestions
Getting our old Class C up and running again, and I've hit a brick wall with brake replacement. It's a Chevy C30 van body, 16.5 rims. One of the back brakes is seized. We've called pretty much everywhere around, and no one wants to touch it because parts would be so hard to find (odd size, apparently....) Has anyone bought their own parts and taken it to a shop before with any luck? Also, any recommendations for searching for these?2.6KViews0likes10CommentsRe: Untangling an electrical mess! Need some guidance/paid help
theoldwizard1 wrote: wa8yxm wrote: In house wiring (120VAC) WHITE is neutral. Black is hot (at least usually) In automotive and electroic wiring Black is "Ground" Usually (not always). Typically 120VAC wiring uses "Romex" (a black, a white and a bare inside of a sheath) and the wire itself is solid, not stranded. 12VDC wiring is usually single conductor and is stranded. That bus bar with single stranded white wire is very odd ! Personally, I would pull as much of the wiring out as possible and START OVER ! Yeah, there are a few odd things, which is why I'm struggling. When it comes to house stuff, I usually rip everything out and start from scratch! It's why I've ended up doing so much wiring, because I walk into an 80 YO house that's had half a dozen random nonsense patch jobs on it, and given that I'm not an actual trained electrician, it's way easier to just build a brand new setup. My problem is, I don't still understand DC, and how the two exactly connect. I'm trying to learn DC, and sort out what - that's currently there - is actually correct/code, and what is some guy's hodgepodge nonsense.... NOT easy, because I can't find a reference for the detailed wiring and components online. I feel like I have the very basics, and then I see a random wire, and I'm like 'where tf does this even go??' I've searched for a 'build-from'scratch' source online, and come up empty-handed. They've all been extremely basic in nature, and I think I need something more extensive that tells me every component and all that. Considering that I'm already thousands above the value of this total POS RV, adding another god-knows-how-much to pay someone to re-wire really pains me, especially when I feel like I should be able to learn this....658Views0likes0CommentsRe: Untangling an electrical mess! Need some guidance/paid help
Yikes! Sorry about the giant pics. Thanks for the tips. Fixed now. Thanks for the links re: the converter - I'll study them. dougrainer wrote: 1. There is no such thing as a DC neutral buss. I knew that was the wrong word, but I wasn't sure what to call it - I should have used a question mark or something. That's the AC term... 2. If outside the box, it is usually the GROUND/Negative BUSS for the 12 volt DC appliances and connection from the Chassis frame ground Ok, my DC understanding is still shaky, and I"m trying to differentiate it between AC, and remember the **** terms... So AC has 'hot' 'neutral' and 'ground', C only has 'hot' and 'ground' (because it's direct - single direction flow(?) - current)? 3. The wire(Black) that has the 2 wires soldered together, that is the HOT 120 wire that comes from the CONVERTER to the 120 breaker in the breaker box. The soldered end is installed in the breaker(15 or 20 amp) and the Black loose pigtail is wire nutted to a 120 appliance or 120 wall receptacle as its FEED 120 power. 4. The box on the bottom of your power center is the Magnetek Power Converter itself. So that whole bottom portion is the converter - Ok. Is an INVERTER not needed, then? One poster suggested an upgrade to just an inverter... Unless I misunderstood their post, it sounded like they were saying to do away with the converter altogether, and only have AC when connected to SP... I do want the option of off-grid, and I'd like to keep at least one 120VAC - phone or computer charging, likely - I suppose my old cigarette lighter plug could do that, though... Thoughts? 5. The ONLY stranded wires will be the 3 120 wires FROM the 30 amp Power cord in the pic where you are holding the soldered wire. The other stranded wires will be that black soldered wire you are holding and the WHITE Neutral wire that runs from the CONVERTER along with the Black soldered wire that connects to the 30 amp breaker 6. Remember, EXCEPT for item 5 above. any other stranded wires will be 12 volt DC wires. The Romex 120 wiring leaving the Breaker panel going to 120 receptacles and 120 appliances will be solid core copper. ok makes sense. 7. Here is where it gets tricky. From your last 2 pics, it appears the 12 volt DC wires were 2 stranded Black and white together. USUALLY, the WHITE is the Ground/Negative. The BLACK will be 12 volt positive. This is standard RV wire color. Don't use Automobile color standards. I state this because you stated the WHITE wires were all together on an outside the power center wire BUSS. They use a common Ground. The Black wires will be connected to the 12 volt fuse panel. Doug So black in my hot line - Yes? I'm not familiar with Auto color standards, and I think another poster said the colors/black were backwards.... I'm sorry if I seem daft and full of questions, I'm trying to correlate the DC terms with what's already in my brain. I'm a visual/hands on learner, so this has been challenging for me, as I have nothing at all to refer to, and finding videos online that are even close to my setup has left me fairly empty-handed... Thanks for your detailed & patient response, Doug. I really appreciate it! I don't think I'm in over my head just yet, but I'm definitely treading water, trying to learn as I go.659Views0likes0CommentsUntangling an electrical mess! Need some guidance/paid help
I don't know if this is allowed - please, admin, let me know, if not! *If you have the skills and willingness/time to have a video session about this, to see things more clearly, I will happily compensate for your time - we can agree on rate, etc via message. I'm in NY, and hiring someone to come out just isn't an option right now. I have a good amount of AC electrical experience, and I learn quickly, but some things just aren't available to search for online. The timing is horrible with the weather finally breaking and allowing time to work, but essential business and travel only, so I'm on my own, locally....* I am currently working on a rebuild on an '87 class C RV. We ended up having to gut the entire thing due to water damage. Some things were already torn apart/changed when we purchased, including (much to my surprise) part of the electrical system. (just like a previously owned house, it's always a crapshoot if the person before actually knew what they were doing. Likely not, in most cases...) There's also a likelihood that I took apart something without realizing that I wouldn't be able to figure out where it's supposed to go back.... I will admit to this - I naively thought I'd remember. Having done extensive house (AC) wiring before, I felt fairly confident in rewiring this RV. Well, a previous owner(s?) has mucked things up for me by making their own alterations and not labeling anything - several things had been disconnected and/or wired differently, and there are a couple things that I just can't figure out what to do with! I've also never dealt with DC, and while I've been studying several good sources, I'd like verification on a few things, before I commit to starting. ___________________________________________________ 1. I want to verify something - the converter is on the left, yes? Would that make the component on the right the inverter? Every schematic I've seen has an inverter, but I've also read that not every RV has one. Also, a technician repair manual I acquired doesn't even mention an inverter, so I'm a tad confused... I thought they were necessary... ?? ___________________________________________ 2. So power from the converter has it's own breaker on the AC side. Pictured is the nonsense I found. The end of the wire was hooked up to a breaker, but that crazy soldered connection was just hanging loose (!!!). I'm not sure if they were just putting an extension in (why would they need to? Wouldn't it reach, as wired from the factory??) or if it was hooked up to another wire that I don't/didn't see... ____________________________________________ 3. There's a 2A DC fuse that I think I pulled and now I don't know what it's supposed to go to. (this is the one I admit to screwing up!) Pictured is the end of it. The rest of the DC loads are pretty clear, and I've already labeled and traced out all the wires, but this has me stumped. perhaps some sort of monitor/indicator thing? Obviously something with very low power requirements.... I can't find anything online about it.... Recognize the way it was connected, perhaps? __________________________________________________ 4. The DC neutral(wrong word but I don't know the DC term!) bus was hooked up outside of the box. Makes sense, because there's no space in there. But... all the boxes I've looked up online have it inside. Not sure if it makes a difference if the wires are hooked up correctly, but it was literally taped to the side, so any other suggestions as to how to more properly mount this would be great! ______________________________________ There are a few other funky things that have me banging my head up against a wall, but I'm not sure how best to describe. It would be so much easier to show someone in person or via video, but the in-person isn't an option right now. I'm really hoping that an electrically savvy person/RV electrician sees this. This RV is totally gutted, and there's not much more I can do as far as rebuild without doing the electrical first, so I want to get it done! Thanks!3.1KViews0likes11CommentsRe: Ceiling insulation help!
Boomerweps wrote: Sheet foam with minimal expanding spray foam on the seams. For foam to show rot it has to be very old or exposed to UV rays. And it has to break down to absorb water. The foam we pulled out was pretty bad, and a good amount of it was soaked with water. (from an '87, who knows how long it was wet...). The whole RV and roof was bad, hence the gut. Sheet foam isn't ideal, because one of the roof repairs involved putting in aluminum square tubing beams, with an arched wood beam on top to make the roof slightly bowed (plus, it was super warped and a curve was the only thing we could come up with to take up the slack...) That's why we were thinking of something soft, like the standard pink roll.... I do prefer the rigidity the sheets would give, though...320Views0likes0CommentsCeiling insulation help!
Hi folks! We're In the beginning stages of a complete gut/rebuild, and really just making things up as we go along, lol! We're about to put insulation in the ceiling, and we're not sure the best and most economical way to go. The space between is about 2" thick, 150 sq feet. Because this is an unexpected complete rebuild, cost is a huge factor - we don't mind using leftover, weird, or otherwise unconventional things for certain aspects of it. For insulation, the usual cheapest route is the pink roll, but that's too thick for a space that's only 2" thick. We looked at the spray-in foam, but that's hundreds of $... Same with the rigid kind that we pulled out (was rotted and soaking wet...) So... Should we try to slice the pink stuff in half and use it? Any other thin methods out there we might look into?1.8KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Vinyl flooring - plank or sheet??
Cummins12V98 wrote: NO snap together stuff! LVT is "Luxury Vinyl Tile". It needs to be glued down. It is a heavy duty tile that is at least 1/8" thick. NOT cheap! Pic above is mine at the Factory, it has square edges that are butted together and glued. Thanks for the clarification! I've done the groove/snap installation before, with wood flooring. Not hard, but a pain. Tiles sound easier.1.5KViews0likes0Comments
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