gonzo71
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Got a new truck in fall and I am working on getting it ready to tow behind the Class A. On the old truck I drilled into the tail lights and added a separate bulb for when towed, I like the not splice into the truck wiring. Now on the new truck there is a bit more to the tail lights and I don’t want to drill into the lights. I thought about using a tailgateLED light strip. Is there any reason I should not use one of those https://www.actiontrucks.com/product-detail/RMP960134/tailgate-light-bars?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7Z3VBRC-ARIsAEQifZQdkKIfsnTOMXGE7TATJqu-sNjfe4vIFOuDi0l5tKYBtOJZIZ5UoyUaAkFOEALw_wcB1.2KViews0likes3CommentsRe: Attwood Furnace Help....please
Old-Biscuit wrote: The Spark Electrode provides high voltage spark for ignition.......which is happening (warm exhaust) BUT it is also used for FLAME PROOFING....ie: main flame lights off--generates milliamp signal that goes back to circuit board to prove flame lit. No signal return....DC gets dropped to gas valve/no flow Due to flame lit signal being milliamps Spark electrode: *Must be engulfed in flame *Must be clean..no soot/carbon *Must have clean/tight wire connections *No cracked ceramic insulator You have Good strong spark.....flame IS lighting......Just need to clean up/check spark electrode so milliamp signal can get back to circuit board (No thermocouple used.......pilot flame systems use them) I have the feeling, with all the roasted flies, the soak electrode maybe full of sud. We are on our last trip o the season, the AC heat pump is running OK. I will make the furnace my spring project.146Views0likes0CommentsAttwood Furnace Help....please
Happy Canadian Thanksgiving I need some help on my furnace. It's an Attwood 8900-II. When I put the furnace on I can hear the van come on. After half a minute or so the igniter will come in and I can feel some hot exhaust outside. As soon as the igniter stops so does the warm exhaust and the flame will not light. The LED on the control board will block 3 times which according to my manual is a ingnition failure (no kidding). What could be the cause. I did just take an air hose and blow out a lot of roasted flies. Could this be the problem. How do I propperty clean that. I tried to vacuum but still no luck igniting the furnace. Lucky that I have the AC heat pump. We had snow last night.967Views0likes3CommentsRe: Kwikee Steps parts
dr3x wrote: By no means am I an expert in the field but I was ready to replace mine, the controller until I stopped and took the time to follow the tests to the tee to check system as Kwikee has laid out online. Well to my surprise and relief it led me to a bad wire connection in the harness to the controller. The wire inside the harness was green and had corroded to the point of no connection. Cut off a short piece of the wire at both ends of the poor connection. Reattached and sealed connection and re wrapped and steps work great. Cost 20 cents and some time to test and trace. All I am saying is do the test as laid out on the Kwikee website and follow the results to the proper fix. Grounds and wire connections are so suspect on these motorhomes and components. Good luck happy hunting. Let us know what you find. I have done that those test and that how I came up with the idea its the control box. But maybe your post motivates me to get my ass under there one more time to clean the contact etc.634Views0likes0CommentsRe: Kwikee Steps parts
Artum Snowbird wrote: There is a lot of combined Kwikee help on here. What makes you think it is the control unit? In my case, the steps would not move. I put my meter onto the motor leads and saw the unmistakable pulse from the control unit, then because they were unable to move, the control unit would trip off internally to avoid an overload. When I released the bolts slightly that were holding the unit tight to the frame, that gave a little more clearance and presto, it worked. I put some shims under the bolts and never had another problem with it. I did a full trouble shooting thing unless I am missing something its the box. Also I can move the steps without a problem if I power the motor direct from a 12V battery634Views0likes0CommentsKwikee Steps parts
Hi All, It has been a while for me to post. My old lady finally is giving me a little problem. My Kwikee Steps are not moving either in or out. I traced the problem to be the control unit. I went to the dealer but they are having a hard time finding the right part. I have a Series 25 Kwikee Step. The part number on the old control unit is 90950800, but my dealer can not find that part anywhere. I went to the Lippert website and that number comes up with nothing as well. Does anybody know if the number changed or is the an upgrade kit I need to order? Thanks for helping me out.5.8KViews0likes15CommentsRe: Flat tire 36 hrs after I purchased new
So luck no damage to the tire. There is only 1 valve core on the extender not on the stem itself. I have now asked them to remove the extender and just have a core on the stem. One less thing to worrie about. Now I have to look at some other issues I found after having the bus in storage for 3 years.436Views0likes0CommentsRe: Flat tire 36 hrs after I purchased new
Little update, I called Kal Tire in Nisku, AB where I got the tires. talked to Shawn the branch manager. As soon as I told him what happend, he asked me to bring to Motorhome back and he will take the tire off for inspection. I am happy that without inc if and buts he told me to come back.. I will try to find some time later today.435Views0likes0Comments
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