HuckleCat
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Re: Coach Battery Setup
MrWizard wrote: HuckleCat wrote: I have a single 12V battery as a coach battery. It was set up like this when I bought it. It is a 1975 model class A. What is this thing pictured? I need to replace or modify it. When plugged into shore power everything works and the battery charges. However, I think there is something the matter with it. The positive wire at the left gets hot and evidently has done so in the past as it is charred a bit. The positive wire to the left is connected to the battery, the one to the right right goes into the inverter / charger. Would like to have 2 - 6V batteries but not sure what the fused device is. ??? What's this ??? the built in converter does NOT work ? but this wiring gets HOT when your battery charger is running from shore power ? assumng your charger leads are connected directly to the battery ? then these fuses lead to something using power ? PULL the fuses, find out what does not work with out the fuses 1975 ? does your fridge have 12vdc run setting ? Built in converter / charger works - one wire on that assembly was getting hot when plugged to shore power - likely as you said from corrosion and such. With those fuses out everything works except the charging of the batteries. The charging lead runs into one side of that fuse block and then from the other side a lead goes to the battery.427Views0likes0CommentsRe: Coach Battery Setup
time2roll wrote: That fuse holder is shot. Sounds good, looks like I can replace this antique fuse holder. I cannot determine what amp needed as the old glass tube types may be incorrect. They were 20amp - so one 40 amp blade type would work safely? Thanks also Wizard and Drew. That black connector thing in the photo was my charger getting the battery charged since the other thing is disconnected.429Views0likes0CommentsCoach Battery Setup
I have a single 12V battery as a coach battery. It was set up like this when I bought it. It is a 1975 model class A. What is this thing pictured? I need to replace or modify it. When plugged into shore power everything works and the battery charges. However, I think there is something the matter with it. The positive wire at the left gets hot and evidently has done so in the past as it is charred a bit. The positive wire to the left is connected to the battery, the one to the right right goes into the inverter / charger. Would like to have 2 - 6V batteries but not sure what the fused device is. ??? What's this ???1.8KViews0likes8CommentsRe: 1972 Revcon 250
OH! There are not many REVCONs around. Thats the reason I like mine. There are parts that may be difficult to find. Rear shocks if you ever need them are not available. I had front shocks, and most of the front end wear items on mine replaced. Those are available as the Revcon used the Toronado drive train / front end pretty much as supplied from the GM factory.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: 1972 Revcon 250
Hello Jacob! I have a 1975 REVCON I am currently working on. My tires are the same as yours. Luckily mine are only a couple of years old and in good condition. I am researching how to get a more common size that will work with the bolt pattern etc. Will let you know. I want to have the tires in a size in case of something happening on the road. Check out my REVCON here. It is a work in progress. Our 1975 REVCON album - work in progress1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Drivers and passenger seat replacement questions
crasster wrote: Seriously I would just look for a junkyard special. Clean it with a Rug Doc or professionally clean. Then reupholster. No not all bolt patters are the same, but often from the same manufacturer. May have a drill, tap, and die job. BE forewarned that it may not be "as safe" because it was not engineered that way. Thanks! I am not sure how safe the original design was to begin with. Just doesn't seem to be beefy enough bolts to hold the seats down although I suppose the belts themselves add a lot to the system. I did find a company that custom makes these for vintage GMC mothorhomes for $490 + cost of material. Not too bad of a price all considered.232Views0likes0CommentsRe: Drivers and passenger seat replacement questions
gbopp wrote: Your link said the finish is dull. Did you ever try the Zep/Red Max Pro process? Use the wax of your choice if you are not interested in using floor wax. The prep is the important part. We may give it a try, but we will likely keep the finish as it is. There are spots where the paint is coming off and bare aluminum is showing. When we were repainting stripes that were partially missing we applied tape and the tape took off flecks of the original finish. My better half wants the outside to look original (worn and old) for some unknown reason.233Views0likes0CommentsDrivers and passenger seat replacement questions
My old motorhome has no passenger seat and I am not pleased with the drivers seat. I am looking to get a nice drivers seat and then a double passenger one that will recline (extra sleeping spot for a 7 year old) Any recommendations? I was thinking about used so we can reupholster with some 70's style material. Are bolt patterns pretty standard? Any RV salvage yards that would let us browse around for decent frames? Our 1975 REVCON album - work in progress1.5KViews0likes6Comments
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