Camper_Jeff___K
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Joined Apr 04, 2008
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TC Framing Reinforcement.
TC Framing Reinforcement I had to do a temporary framing reinforcement on the Truck Camper Right side cabover. It was getting warping and bubbling in the lower right sidewall so I got some angle aluminium on the inside and outside sandwiching the wall, bolting together with 3"x5/16" SS bolts. Not perfect but better than it was. The outside doubles as a dripedge, keeping water away from that crappy leaking edge trim manufacturers use. It will get us through this travel season.Latest Update To My 6.0 PSD Engine Problems
VIDEO Latest Update To My 6.0 PSD Engine Problems I drop $4000.00 in new parts to get my 2006 F-550 running again. I did an oil cooler backflush and after completing that, The engine wouldn't start. I got contribution errors on 1 injector so I replaced that. Then two more injector contribution errors. I had been thinking about doing new injectors and this situation kicked me into buying all new rebuilt Alliant stock injectors. I also replaced all the sensors, gaskets, O-rings, and still had a poor or no run situation. I began inspecting the wire harness and found the crank position sensor wires were for some unknown reason, bare and twisted together. The work of a previous owner or mechanic. I soldered on a new pigtail but still had a problem not starting. I dug deeper into the wire harness. I was going to install a new cam position sensor wire. I noticed something funky with the plug so I pulled out the new Alliant cam sensor and found one of the two connectors was bent over and not making contact. I straightened the pin so it would slide into the plug connector easily. I kept the existing wire which looked fine but I did put a wrap of heat resistant aluminum fiberglass tape wrap over the split loom and tape wrapped that so it should be well protected. Last thing was to install a pair of powerful new Odyssey ODX_AGM65 batteries with 950 CCA. They turn the engine over hard and fast now operating at a higher 12.8 volts. Lead wet cell is 12.6 volts. The truck runs now but still smokes. It may just need to be run a few miles to work any air out of the fuel and oil systems. There is still some monkeying around with the engine to be done but I think I'm getting there, all the numbers shown by FORSCAN look good. See the Forscan data the last minute of the video. Your ideas and input is most welcome. I see a lot of mechanics after completing a servicing such as this will drive the vehicle for 30 or 50 miles. That's the plan for today if it feels like I have power enough to make the drive. Will update as it happens.Decided To Do The Full Monty On My 6.0 Liter PSD F-550 Top Engine
I ordered the parts to give my engine a big upgrade. The truck only has just over 90,000 miles on it but it is 20 years old. After I backflushed my oil cooler, I went to fire it up and was treated to a big cloud of heavy diesel exhaust smoke. I got a contribution error code on #2, front left, so I replaced that and made the mistake of thinking I was done but NOoooo, the smoke and rough running was still there. I hooked the scanner back up and now was getting a contribution error on #4. This was upsetting obviously. It takes a bit of time and effort to did down into the engine and replace an injector. For the #2 injector, I was in a hurry because we were planning to attend a family campout at Deception Pass State Park and now that wasn't going to happen. The 550 wasn't running so my plan B to load the TC onto the old F-250 couldn't be done. So, back to the engine. I pulled apart the left side again to examine things. I decided to pull all the injectors on the left side and replace all the injector O-rings with a set of Mahle Viton O-ring kit. Examining the engine components further, I noticed the oil rail cups were loose which would cause a major loss of oil and high pressure making the engine run rough. I ordered a set of Alliant Viton O-rings and an expensive specialty socket to replace all those O-rings. I also ordered new updated stand pipes and dummy plugs. That should address the high pressure oil side of things. I believe the injectors in the engine are Warren, a cheaper brand. I purchased a set of 8 Alliant injectors with all new internals and verified tolerances with complete testing before shipping, at least that's what they say. 2000.00 for the injectors which included new oil and fuel filters, valve cover gaskets and a couple other items. Cost goes down with a larger package. Injectors themselves I guess to be 1700.00 +/- by themselves. I'm also replacing glow plug #6, the turbo back pressure sensor since I'd had a code on that before. I'm also installing new cam and crank position sensors. My FICM is an Alliant 50 Volt version dated July 2022 so that should all be just dandy. The plan is to pull apart the right side today and have the engine all ready to install all the new stuff when it gets here by Tuesday. The problem has been identified as an over fueling issue. I took my bore scope to look down into each cylinder and In #4, I could see lots of carbon and diesel fuel on top of the piston. Other pistons looked wet but not soaked like #4. So anyway, That's the state of the truck address for now. I'll provide video of the project when finished for the 3 or 4 hard core engine loving folks that will want to watch it. More details to came as they happen.Backflushing 6.0 PSD Oil Cooler In Detail
Backflushing 6.0 PSD Oil Cooler In Detail I backflush my 6.0 liter PSD oil cooler in detail this video. I needed to buy a Gear Wrench miniature ratchet socket set to be able to reach fasteners in tight locations. (See In Video) The tool has been very useful for other areas with tight work locations, highly recommend. Backflushing the oil cooler can improve and restore the performance of your oil cooler. The oil cooler can become clogged with bits of casting sand, rust flakes from inside the engine block, and a sticky compound in the antifreeze caused by the EGR cooler superheating the antifreeze that passes through the oil cooler when the engine is under heavy load like towing a big trailer up a long steep grade, hill, or mountain pass. Coolant in the EGR cooler can superheat to 1200 degrees where it creates a sticky compound that will circulate through the engine. the compound likes to stick to the small passages in the oil cooler, heater core, and radiator. A coolant filter can help but it only filters about 10% to 20% of the coolant being pumped through the engine. The coolant being pumped through the oil cooler is not directly filtered so even with a filter, the oil cooler is still exposed to the sticky compound which accelerates the accumulation of gunk blocking the passages in the cooler eventually causing a steady decline in performance and possibly an eventual blockage, kind of like a heart attack or stroke in your oil cooler. A deleted EGR eliminates the conditions that cause superheated coolant. Just my opinion, if your EGR is deleted, you probably don't need a coolant filter since the cause of the problem doesn't exist anymore. You can still benefit from a filter to catch sand and rust bits. The filter will probably last a lot longer without an EGR cooler to gum things in the engine up. OK, that's my step by step in detail video how to backflush your 6.0 PSD oil cooler. I hope you enjoyed the video and that it helps you with your vehicle.Re: Stuck working on engine not camping...
I back flushed my oil cooler and got some debris out. Sand, rust flakes, and white flakes I presume were previously EGR Cooler superheated antifreeze sticky bits. I put things back together and the truck ran terrible, thick white heavy diesel smelling smoke billowing out the exhaust. My INNOVA 5610 scanner reported contribution fault #2 injector. I replaced that, now the scanner reports 2 and 8 contribution errors and IPR low oil pressure. Tomorrow, I'll pull the left FICM, air pipes, degas bottle out to access and remove the IPR to inspect it, check screen, and inspect the cable going to it since it routes next to the exhaust side of the turbocharger and is known to burn wires and short. Hopefully that will resolve my fuel and smoke issue. Keep in mind the truck was running great before this. My main suspicion is a wiring issue since I was pushing and pulling wire harnesses before this started happening. There should have been no mechanical failure from the work I did. Update tomorrow.Re: Ford V-10 6.8L Seized Lost Oil Pressure
Sorry about your engine. I had a similar incident with my old 5.4 2V engine. I wasn't anywhere near 5K RPM, maybe 3K going up a sleight grade, northbound in Seatroit's new tunnel. Fortunately in my case, I was only a few miles from home, just returning from about 3 months on the road. We coasted through the last bit of the tunnel and out to a clear striped no traffic area. I wasn't driving hard, just putting along and all of a sudden my oil pressure idiot light came on and within seconds, the engine seized. I was using WIX filters on the engine. In all my years, I've never had a FRAM go bad on me or have reason to distrust the brand, I just wanted to buy a high rated filter. On my 6.0 Liter PSD, I only run Motocraft filter and liquid products. I put in another engine from on of the reman companies and had good results until the plastic oring seal in the crossover tube broke out, blocked the heater hose which is where the water pump gets it's supply from causing a severe overheat and ruined the head gaskets resulting in ARP studs and Cometic MMX head gaskets and a bunch of performance upgrades. If you're still having trouble separating the flexplate, I recatt on mine, we pried the bellhousing apart from the engine enough to get a flat ratchet end wrench in there to loosen the nuts off the studs on the torque converter. It's in your interest to leave the torque converter on the pilot shaft, unless your going to replace it but it sounds like you don't need to with low miles. I installed MMR coolant adaptors on the back of the heads to provide better cooling and I understand your V10 will benefit from them more than the V8. I hope you get things back together and on the road again. Take care.Re: solar panel install
Is the old panel on it's own controller? If so, I'd hook it into the system, it's got to add another what, 100 watts? Unless you're already doing that. If you recall my recent Victron install, I rebuilt an unusable cabinet into about the same 2x2 space with access doors giving easy access to all equipment. I drilled 5 1.5" holes along the bottoms of the doors to vent.your instalkation looks nice and clean. It looks like you have the 3 panels wired in series.
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