Bowhunter61
Explorer
Joined 15 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Broken Window
opnspaces wrote: Been there 2 times with a very similar window on my TT. Number one thing to do right now is to get a roll of tape (Blue masking or clear box tape) and carefully tape up as much as you can to keep the broken glass in place before it all falls out and makes a huge mess. Once taped up take the one screw out and take the window to a glass shop that does windows and doors and such. They will measure and have the replacement cut and tempered and replaced in your existing frame. One caveat that I did not know and learned the hard way. Keep the replacement glass standing vertical like it sits when installed in the trailer. If you lay it down flat it might break overnight. Thanks, already used blue painters tape to tape the whole window. Good to go there. Good tip on transporting it back in the vertical position, I wouldn't have thought about that. Found a local glass company, she doesn't carry tinted tempered but can get it and said she would rig me up with a temporary solution until she got it. Thanks for all the input!!398Views0likes0CommentsRe: Broken Window
ksg5000 wrote: When something similar happened to me I took the rig to a local glass shop who made a template of the window and sent to their supplier - took a few days for them to get the glass. I just checked the window and window frame just slides out of the upper track after removing one screw. THis is an exit window that pushes out from the bottom and hinged on the top. I think I will call a glass place I know and see if they can get the glass. I'm not sure how the frame separates to get the glass out and new glass in.399Views0likes0CommentsBroken Window
Came back to the TH from work (staying at a campground while I work in Maryland a few weeks) and found one of my garage windows shattered. Looks like a rock hit it. I know they had been mowing around here so not sure if that is what happened or not. Anyways, need some help and advice. How to get it replaced? Anyone know what windows Keystone used in the Fusions? They Dometic? Looked for some local mobile RV services and couldn't find any in my initial search. Thanks in advance for any advice and/or help that can be provided.2KViews0likes7CommentsRe: Finding my leak
3 tons wrote: I could only then conclude that the block styrofoam insulation the manufacturer used between the sectioned roof members was nearly air tight and preventing even extreme pressure (actually air volume) to communicate up thru to the skylight’s eternabond surround. This right here is my concern after looking at where the water is coming in, that whole wall is the block styrofoam and the water is weeping down the plywood, I am not sure how well air will push through through the styrofoam and plywood to the leak area allowing the water in to soak the plywood. I pulled the bottom window as suggested and no issues there. I pulled some of the inner wood (paneling) and styrofoam out trace the water stains on the outer plywood and it seems to be coming down directly from the awning mount. The dealer had fixed the corner trim in the back corner where they said they found leaks and that corner had been wet also so I may have 2 leaks. Once it gets nice out I am going to take plastic and cover both windows and then give the awning mount a good soaking with a hose.720Views0likes0CommentsRe: Finding my leak
midnightsadie wrote: find a place that can do a pressure test,with smoke is better. it,ll show all leaks. Last place I had it was a registered SealTech test location. So either they didn't run the test or they found one leak and stopped there and they had it for over a month. So I am done with dealerships and going to try to fix this myself, I can get the unit back in the pole building under cover now and take my time. I am confident the leak is originating in the garage area, if you read my original post the water was traveling down the back corner but them running forward and across the floor because the unit was parked on a slant forward and to the right. So I hope that narrows it down to the windows, awning, or roof seam. But the roof seam was just addressed by the dealer. I am going to spend a couple weeks on it and if I can't find it I will find another place to try and fix it.721Views0likes0CommentsRe: Finding my leak
dougrainer wrote: The FIRST thing I would do at our shop would be to pull the window right above the damage. That will tell you a lot. I will bet it is coming in the window due to the leak damage below it. Doug I am thinking of pulling both windows, there are 2 big ones right there one on top of the other. Could the awning mount also be suspect> it is right there next to both windows, I checked the mounting bolts and they are all covered but not sure behind the frame720Views0likes0CommentsFinding my leak
I had posted about a leak I had back in 2016, took it to a dealer and they supposedly used a SealTech and found the issue. Well only a couple months later when I brought it down to my land in TN, I found the leak was still there. I have been keeping it under cover the last 4 years in a pole building at our TN property so I haven't worried about it until now. Our house is built now and we are ready to start using it again. So I took it to a dealer here and they again supposedly fixed it, said it was the corner trim on the back edge of the garage. Left it out in the rain yesterday and leak is still there. Here is the original thread TH Link it's a fuision TH, So I wanted to throw my plan out here and see if people could give me some recommendations. Plan: I am going to tackle finding this myself. I figure I can rig up my own "SealTech" type of system. First I am going to seal the garage area because that is where the leak seems to be coming from. I have a big slider door that isolates the garage from the rest of the unit. I am going to use an electric leaf blower with a dry vent tube hooked to it and run it into the side vent of the garage (vent that can be opened to let our fumes). I will tape the seams on the ramp door. Then use a mix 1-3 soap to water to spray on all the windows and corners then up to the roof. Anything else I would need to be aware of? Thanks3.8KViews0likes15CommentsRe: Water Heater replacement
SoundGuy wrote: Bowhunter61 wrote: Good to about the anode rod, mine has one so I’m guessing it’s a suburban Atwood water heaters ship without an anode rod because the tank itself is aluminum vs the porcelain lined steel tank used in Suburban water heaters that require the use of an anode rod. That said, aftermarket anode rods to fit Atwood water heaters are sold even though they're not needed so if you bought your unit used there's nothing to say a previous owner couldn't have installed an anode rod in an Atwood water heater. If you bought the rig new then there's no reason an Atwood would have an anode rod so by definition if yours does have an anode rod then it will be a Suburban, most likely an SW12DE. Bought the unit new and I have had the anode rod out every year to drain and winterize. Picture of the Suburban SW12DE looks identical to my unit. I will get down there sometime late next month and pull the panel in the basement area on that side of the water heater and see what the piping and connections look like. Thanks for all the help, sounds like a 50-50 chance I may have to replace the water heater, but for sure maybe some connectors. Not too worried either way, just was wondering how much work I would have when I get down there. No one to blame but myself, but short version of long story, we had to leave last November in a hurry and I rushed the winterization and just forgot to drain the water heater, I switched it over to bypass and filled everything else up with anti freeze and just forgot about pulling the Anode rod and draining it.565Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 13, 202544,029 Posts
