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Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I plan to mount a 30 amp receptacle to the outside of the box, bringing the wiring from the backside of the panel on the generator. I'll probably use a deflector for the exhaust to deflect it downward or add an extension to the muffler to get it outside of the enclosure. I'd still like to somehow isolate the exhaust system with sheet metal to segregate that air and expedite it's removal from the enclosure. I'm thinking of a shroud around the exhaust with a large muffin fan from a duct to force that heat source from the enclosure rather than depend on convection to remove it. It would also keep that heat from the generator wiring as well. A small nimh battery pack could provide power for the fan as well as the overtemp circuit if installed. As for the recoil starter, a bit of added rope and an aircraft pulley mounted on a bracket will allow for starting.291Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Congrats to everyone that is getting on the bandwagon. As for sound attenuation, I'm going to try some of the egg crate foam lining a box made of bathroom surround paneling. I figure the paneling should be moderately water resistant and the egg crate is the closest thing I can think of that's readily available that would replicate the wall surfaces of an anechoic (sp?) room. I'm going to put a sheet metal shroud around the muffler and duct air from a muffin fan through it to purge what is probably the greatest source of radiant heat in the enclosure. I'm mounting it on the rear of my 5er on an aluminum cargo carrier from HF. I narrowed the carrier down so that the spare tire will still mount on the back as well. It was as simple as drilling out a few pop rivets, cutting all the cross bars and then reriveting it back together. I also plan to add some stainless gusstes in a couple of locations in order to lock down the generator since they seem to be a hot commodity for theft at race tracks these days. That and a lock through the hitch reciever pin for the carrier should secure it from all but the most determined thieves. I'll take pictures tomorrow and post them. I will leave the bottom of the carrier open and have the enclosure top hinged so that it can be opened a bit to allow for convective flow across the generator/engine and to prevent the build up of gasoline fumes. Question Professor, when you return. As stated I'm planning on a muffin fan to flow air across the exhaust. I'm thinking I should put a small battery in the compartment for the fan and run it off the 12v side of the generator. The battery should act as an electrical accumulator (capacitor?) to prevent spikes from toasting the fan. I have the Big Lots generator and plan to add a 30 amp recepticle to it was well. Probably will route the wiring to the outside of the enclosure so I only have to access the generator for starting.411Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Following up on thermal safety switch for an enclosed generator: Link to one surplus vendor The switch "(SWH) 354-103" on the above page looks like it might do the trick. If I remember the temps the professor mentioned 190 comes to mind. This one is adjustable down to 180 which would allow for a margin of safety.411Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Here's a thought to chew on... With the low oil shut off most of these units have and some of us considering enclosures, what are your thoughts about using an appropriately rated Klixon temp switch for thermal protection for the generator head in the shut down circuit? Just allow for the switch to be normally open and then closed to ground when in an overtemp situation.375Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: As an "old motor man" I am sure you know to reduce the run wattage on your generator by about 200 watts for every 5 degrees F above 85 degrees ambient temperature to lessen the chance of getting the core over 195 degrees F. It is a good precaution to take to assure a long life for your unit. Interesting info there professor. Are you speaking of the core of the electrical generating plant or the core (rotating and reciprocating components) of the engine itself? I just assembled a cargo carrier from HF (the aluminum one, $50.95 with 20% off coupon) and did some initial measuring for installation on the back bumper of the 5er. I was initially going to install the reciever tube ($14.95 from Northern Tools) under the bumper and it's brace, but was concerned about ground clearance when gong into and out of steep drives or parking areas. Decided to explore installation above bumper. Gives a three fold improvement- increased ground clearance, allows carrier to mount closer to body of trailer, and allows reciever tube to be welded to more substantial structure on trailer frame and bumper standoff brace. I will have to narrow the carrier itself a bit to keep the outboard end from protruding too far past the trailer body, but it's only pop rivets to drill out, shorten the cross members and then rerivet it back together. This does cause the generator to sit higher, partially obscuring the light and tag, so I'm thinking of moving the tag bracket to the LH tail light and putting an auxiliary light assembly (stop and tail) on the carrier. That would probably be a good move in any case. I'll upload pics when I get further along, after getting the receiver tube welded on the frame.361Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I tried to do the same deal with Advance AP and got the same answer, only in the western CSK stores. I did email Champion and they indicated they had a dealer in the Greensboro, NC area. Now that I've bought the Big Lots gennie, I doubt I'll go looking for the Champion. I think I'll just wire in a 30 amp recepticle and mount it on the frame with adel clamps in a plastic work box. I need to start working on a mount for the rear bumper and an enclosure for it. I'm thinking about using the melamine faced paneling they sell in Lowes for the outer facing and lining the box either with foil faced insulation or 2" foam and facing the area near the exhaust with aluminum to resist the higher temps in that area. I'm thinking the insulation might be a better "sound trap". Hmmm, after thinking about those special rooms that don't reflect sound, maybe egg crate foam from a mattress topper would be better. Coat the exposed face with some sort of sealant that won't attack the parent material. Well, looks like a trip to Lowe's and Wally world are in order for today.244Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Well, I haven't seen this one listed yet, or I might have over looked it. We stopped into Big Lots in Greensboro, NC this afternoon returning from the antique farm show in Denton, NC. While walking around I noticed this unit. I immediately took it down from the shelf and opened it up to see if it was comparable to the others being discussed. It looked to be the same and since I didn't want to pay shipping from partsamerica.com, well, it just followed me home. Price was $288. Manual was vague on choke operation and it didn't start on first or second pull, so I set the choke lever in oposite direction and it started with a nice mellow sound. I ran around to the back of the trailer and brought out the power cord and 15 amp adapter. Plugged it up and hit the AC. Engine expressed it's acquisition of a load with a bit louder rumble but it didn't hiccup one bit. Sure could have used it the past 2 nights when the temps didn't seem to drop below 80 all night. Engine is noticeably less noisy than the 1850 watt Coleman we had used for the weekend. If I can round up a dB meter I'll get some readings. I'm thinking of mounting on back bumper of the fifth wheel in some sort of sound deadening enclosure. Will post more later. Edited to reduce on picture width to prevent screen scrolling - MELM347Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
In order to most effectively remove the exhaust heat from an enclosure, it would seem to me the most beneficial way is to run the exhaust to an externally mounted muffler. After all, the surface area of the muffler is enormous compared to the surface area of the pipe required to get the exhaust gases outside the box. An additional point is that there are exhaust wraps available from hot rod suppliers that will allow for insulating the exhaust pipe within the box to prevent additional heat "loss" inside the enclosure. One source of heat wrap326Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Professor, I like your solution and would like to propose an alternative to just doubling the thickness of the foam board. Two layers of foam, but separated by say 1/2" standing frame members between the layers. Picture a normal wall with drywall installed. The dead space between the layers should go a long way to deadening the sound levels. Again, storage might be a problem unless one was to make the box up and then apply a couple of layers of fiberglass to weather proof and reinforce it and leave it installed on the generator. Make the end to be open hinged with a small latch to keep it closed during transport. This foam board is easily fastened together using a hot glue gun. Use the low temp glue sticks and run a bead along the joints. I'm waiting to either get one of the champions form parts america (hate the shipping costs with Advance Auto near by, but they can't order it) or my next trip to the Shore and get one of the Pep Boys models.282Views0likes0Comments
