bamaboy473
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Re: Cummings ISB 5.9L Turbo Diesel 300hp
explorenorth wrote: My thought is that if I can get in under 120,000 km (80,000 miles) for under $55k, it will work out well. Any thoughts on that will be appreciated. Having just bought a 2006 36' DP with less than 10,000 miles, I can assure you that you will be able to find one of 2002 32' DP, and those miles for MUCH less money than you're budgeting.2.8KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Cummings ISB 5.9L Turbo Diesel 300hp
Dog Trainer wrote: Look at the weight and length and if you are in the 100 hp per 1000 lb category the 5.9 will be adequate. We have put many thousands of miles on our B5.9 12 Valve and as others have stated she is not a speed demon up the hills. On the flat she really likes to run and I can get an honest 11 MPG with my Allison 6 speed but then again I am just at 22,000 lbs. We've heard that 1HP/1000 pounds is a decent rule of thumb that manufacturers use to mate engines to their DPs. Ours weighs 28,000 pounds, has the 300HP engine, gets between 9-9.5 going 62-65.2.8KViews0likes0CommentsRe: SIMPLE fix just became COMPLICATED...
Roger that, I understand. In this case the house batteries are as fully charged as if they were alternator-supplied...so let's assume that low voltage is a red herring. What signal could cause the motor to die, if that signal had to have come from the keypad, or downstream...but upstream from the motor circuit?333Views0likes0CommentsRe: SIMPLE fix just became COMPLICATED...
Y-Guy wrote: Just for giggles try running the engine and see if that helps. Shore power doesn't necessarily mean your engine battery is at full strength. We were told when we bought our Winnie to always run the engine when extending slides/jacks. OK, Boss, we dis-connected shore power and started the Cummins. Nice to see that volts are the same whether SP or engine (13.7V) Nothing from any switches...so let's backtrack to what began this problem. Maybe looking at bad pump motor is missing the WHY of the original (and second) motors going bad. The Keypad for the jacks. On starting the unit, the pad began beeping, and all four lights (for the four jacks) lit up. The Jacks UP light was blinking red, even with the Power button Off. So I gave Power to the keypad and hit Down and then UP. Nothing but the "jacks are still down" beeping. The Jacks Down pad then blinked both Red and Green continuously. The motor died as I either tried to raise the jacks, or Extend a slide. So....what in that system is powerful enough to kill the motors? The pump operated with the new motor to the extent that it extended the small slide in the BR, and extended/retracted the main slide three times...so pump isn't...er, doesn't seem to be binding.333Views0likes0CommentsRe: SIMPLE fix just became COMPLICATED...
eheading wrote: One easy way to check out the voltage issue is just keep the engine on when working the slides. If you still have a problem, then it probably isn't a voltage issue. Ed Thanks, Ed. No, it isn't a low-voltage issue because I'm connected to shore power here at the house, so batteries are all topped off. Given that Equalizer hydraulics are supposed to be self-adjusting for pressure, I'm beginning to wonder whether there's a pressure valve of some sort that's restricting flow to one of the cylinders? Of course, that likely has nothing to do with the motor dying, or could it?333Views0likes0CommentsRe: SIMPLE fix just became COMPLICATED...
Bill S. wrote: Sorry about the problems you're having, almost right out of the gate. That always makes us second guess our decisions, but hang in there. There are several issues that concern me. If the slide is hanging up in the front, I would look into that, and find out what is causing it. I'm not familiar with your rig's system, but there are usually glides of some sort, that the weight of the slide, slides on. Is one broken or missing? Is there something that has changed with alignment of the slide in the wall? The glides are straight and true, and even sprizting them with silicone spray didn't change things. The slide has been extended and retracting about a dozen times in the past month, so nothing related to sitting awhile, either. Have you checked for full voltage at the pump motor, while someone operates the controls? I haven't heard of a pump motor burning out, so 2 in a row for you, seems very odd. Could it be a control relay, or bad connection in the electrical system for the pump? Have you tried running the motor (either the old one or new), directly from a 12v battery? I would check these things first. BTW, do you happen to be a member of a certain boating forum? We have a member there with a very similar screen name, who I think I remember saying recently bought an RV. Hope we can get thing figured out quick. Maybe a call to "Equalizer" customer support may help. The glides are straight and true, and even sprizting them with silicone spray didn't change things. The slide has been extended and retracting about a dozen times in the past month, so nothing related to sitting awhile, either. Yes to your voltage question. 13.57V at the solenoid, but jumping to the motor produces nothing. Good idea about using a spare battery.... the old motor did nothing when connected to a battery; no hum, no twisting, nada. There are two in-line fuses that both check good for continuity, and there isn't a bit of corrosion or rust in the compartment. yes to the THT question. I've posted on that board as well, just to mine other diagnostic input. What's perplexing is that: a. this happened all of the sudden. No warning. b. the jacks keypad was the tell-tale, because it began beeping the "jacks down" alarm when I started the unit. c. replacing the motor allowed the slides to function and the Jacks light to go out, but then the front of the front slide hung up and wouldn't extend all the way. Equalizer has been great from a CS standpoint, and has sent a number of trouble-shooting guides. I couldn't ask more from them; especially when the cause has to be something simple...that's I've overlooked so far. Thanks for the input, guys. Keep it coming.333Views0likes0CommentsSIMPLE fix just became COMPLICATED...
2006 Mandolay Valencia with 10,000 miles on her; we are second owners and have had it one month, two trips and 1700 miles. So far so good, or so we thought. One week between first and second trip, so jacks stayed UP and slides stayed IN. Ours is an Equalizer system that uses one hydraulic pump for both jacks and slides. Morning of our second trip and neither jacks nor slides would work. Keypad for jacks showed an, "all jacks are not up", message (along with the warning buzzer). Disconnect wiring harness to keypad and do the trip. Get home and contact Equalizer. Seems that shorting the solenoid didn't produce any life into the pump motor, so it must be defective. Order motor. Installed new motor and rear slide worked fine. Front slide hung up on the front, so a few times In and Out, trying to get the slide to open evenly. No luck, so I went inside to cool off. Came out 30 minutes later and...and no life at all on the new motor Coach is like new, with no rust or corrosion anywhere (Missouri) What could possibly cause the new replacement motor to work only a few minutes? Also, could the un-even slide extension be related, or a symptom of a different problem? All suggestions welcomed by this newbie5.5KViews0likes17CommentsRe: Slide doesn't stay tight to frame when driving the MH
It says that coach air pressure needs to be up to snuff. Ride height isn't mentioned, and I can extend/retract the slides either sitting on all 6 or on the jacks. I guess the way to test the low fluid possibility is to add fluid to the reservoir and take the coach a couple hundred miles up the road without having the support bracket installed. No procedure that I found about purging air, but looks like I can add over a pint of ATF and not come close to over-flowing. No "ADD" or "FULL" marks on the tank...395Views0likes0Comments
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