THenne1713
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Re: Looking for Opinions
(Financially) it is better to trade your too small a truck for a used truck that you can PAY for and get OUT from under the bank notes. sac89 wrote: Is it better to buy a truck to tow a TT or 5er or buy a Class C or A and tow a car? The MONEY you can save will pay for any needed repairs/ upgrades. The deals are out there, you just have to look. Reson for the question, I have a truck towing a TT right now, I need to upgrade my truck very soon. It is too small (IMO) for the trailer. If I add up my current truck payments and my current TT payment, it is quite hefty. Any new truck will increase that payment. VS taking that total payment for the two, and purchase a Class C or A or even a Diesel pusher and tow a car that I already own. Thoughts?531Views0likes0CommentsRe: coiling methods for 30 amp cord and fresh water hoses
On the shoreline power, just push it into compartment (2ft at a time), and it will hopefully come back out without the tangling that you WILL experience if you coil it. Mike Leslie wrote: Interested in the various ways myself. I have used those long bendable rods (like a giant twist tie). But interested to hear of other ways.487Views0likes0CommentsRe: Now power to engine/lights/horn battery is good
Normally, would say a Disconnect SWITCH or FUSIBLE LINK WAS BAD/ BLOWN, but yours (intermittent) sounds more like a loose wire. base1957 wrote: 1997 Winnebago Vectra Drove home. Turned MH off. Wouldnt start. Odd Part is: 1. battery cables good and have continuity. 2. Took battery and had it tested. is GOOD 3. Get no power to front of bus. No horn, no lights, and no ignition. HERES THE ODD PART: WAS TRACING THE CABLES FROM BATTERY AND TRACED THEM INTO THE BOX MARKED "BATTERY MODE SOLENOID AND DISCONNECT RELAY LOCATED IN SIDE HERE" Opened that box up and when I would hit try and reset the "Coach Breaker Panel" fuse... I could at times get the lights , horn , and even ignition to turn on. But when I would try to turn the key to the start position... wasnt enough power. As i said the battery has been checked and is good. Now im back to where nothing will come on. thanks in advance john436Views0likes0CommentsRe: Aluminum Differential Cover Thermal Results
It is also possible that (some/ part) of the lower temp is because of the AMSOIL synthetic. Blacklane wrote: I recently installed a finned aluminum differential cover from PML Covers on my 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 that I intend to use for towing a travel trailer. In my previous truck, I had to replace the differential bearings, which is not a small task, so I wanted an easy way to drain and fill the fluid regularly in the hope of avoiding the same problem in my newer truck. So I wanted a good differential cover with drain and fill plugs. I powder-coated the cover in gloss black to match everything else under my truck. Installation was simple. I replaced the differential fluid with AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W90. I used a paper gasket and used medium loc-tite on the screws. (I once had some diff screws loosen causing a loss of fluid). I have a thermal camera and I had a chance to take thermal images of the differential before and after installing the PML cover. I took both images after towing a trailer for about an hour on a highway, followed by about fifteen minutes of slower, steady driving. I could not perfectly duplicate the ambient temperature, so one image is at 70F degrees ambient and the other is at 80F degrees. I assumed that the stock differential and axle had plenty of heat-dissipating area, since the oil can flow all the way down both axle tubes. A few square inches of aluminum fins would not add much. The thermal images revealed a different story. The stock differential temperature was mostly 170-200 degrees F while the PML differential was mostly 140-150 degrees F. Click For Full-Size Image. Click For Full-Size Image. Click For Full-Size Image. Full disclosure: I also sent this info to PML Covers who posted it on their website and sent me a tee shirt, so I guess you could say I have a bias. However, I think these results would be applicable to any similar differential cover.905Views0likes0CommentsRe: Pulling ethanol out of gas
TRY PURE-GAS.ORG FOR YOUR LOCATION, Ethanol-Free usually about $1/gal more than 10%, and 91-Octane (for my location),(and actually) the canned gas, at $6-$8/Qt is >$24/gal :-( a RSD559 wrote: I have seen several YouTube videos of people separating ethanol from gas. Anyone tried this for your generators or yard equipment? To buy pure gas at Lowes or Home Depot you pay about $8 a gallon or more. Since I don't use my generator very often, I'm considering it. Let me know what you think. Thanks.391Views0likes0CommentsRe: Pulling ethanol out of gas
TRY PURE-GAS.ORG FOR YOUR LOCATION, Ethanol-Free usually about $1/gal more than 10%, and 91-Octane (for my location) a RSD559 wrote: I have seen several YouTube videos of people separating ethanol from gas. Anyone tried this for your generators or yard equipment? To buy pure gas at Lowes or Home Depot you pay about $8 a gallon or more. Since I don't use my generator very often, I'm considering it. Let me know what you think. Thanks.391Views0likes0CommentsRe: RV "Hot Skin" and GFCI?
(IF WE ASSUME YOUR POWER CORD GROUND HAS CONTINUITY?) My guess is that there is an OPEN NEUTRAL and maybe OPEN GROUND in the feed to the campsite box 20a/ GFCI circuit. Because of the open Neutral/ and/ or Ground, even water intrusion can cause problems BLEEDING voltage over to what should be grounded wires, putting voltage on the skins, which (SHOULD BE) GROUNDED THROUGH THOSE OPEN WIRES. You checked voltage, but did you check Neutral and Ground? (In YOUR Case) YOU are relying on the ground at the Pedestal, and it was missing? tim.rohrer wrote: Yesterday I discovered I had the troubling “hot skin” condition. After some troubleshooting and testing of different configurations, I determined I could only resolve the hot skin condition by physically disconnecting the RV power cord from the pedestal. Our cord is old and even the power input on the side of our RV shows wear so I purchased a brand new cord and power input. Before connecting the new cord (I haven’t swapped out the power inputs), I used my multimeter to confirm the power at the pedestal was good. I then connected the new cord but did not energize the 50A circuit. The hot skin condition returned. Here is where it gets interesting. I decided to test the 30A and 20A circuits at the pedestal using the multimeter; both circuits were off and I had not touched them since we arrived at this campground a few days ago. I flipped on the 30A breaker and tested voltages with the multimeter. No issues. I then flipped the 20A breaker and noted the GFCI plug was tripped. I reset it, and flipped the breaker. On a whim, I checked the RV and the hot skin condition was GONE. I have since tripped the GFCI and turned off the 20A breaker, but the hot skin condition has not returned. So, especially for any electricians out there, what the heck happened? How could a pedestal be wired such that clearing a probably-blown GFCI (on a different circuit) could have led to this? And why didn’t the EMS system in my coach pick up the problem? Thanks in advance. Tim1.1KViews0likes0Comments
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