All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Soft floor. A lot worse than thought!!Finished! well except for some quarter round... Re: Soft floor. A lot worse than thought!!A little afternoon update. Picked up Minwax wood hardener in north dallas sherwin Williams (45 miles away). Been applying to marginal spots all morning. Pulled out most rotted wood under shower and cleaned up. Slipped 2x4's under good side floor edges for some screw to support. I'm going to put wood hardener on everything else then let dry real good. Oh and fitted the patch. Decided on Home Depots Allure laminate strips with squirt of Loctite construction adhesive. Re: Soft floor. A lot worse than thought!! DaHose wrote: I'm with Snowman. If the wood is all there, consider CPES. That will kill the mold and encapsulate all the cellulose so it can't grow in there again. Jose Yeah I agree. Great idea. I went to lowes and they didn't have the Miniwax wood hardener which is similar and very close if resin is applied after. Currently I can't find CPES locally. I picked up Elmer's Wood Rot Stabilizer. After reading up on it is rather find Miniwax's product. Thoughts of that? I still want to remove all mildewed wood. What a freaking nightmare.Re: Soft floor. A lot worse than thought!! ADAD437 wrote: Why don't you throw it back on the dealer or did you buy it as is? Bought as is. Was a great deal and I didn't know much about soft floors then. I would have tried to get the price down more had I known the extent of this spot. All in all we're happy with the purchase and have gotten over $11k in rentals since March. We've taken some great trips in it too! After this I hope not to have any more issues.Re: Soft floor. A lot worse than thought!! hotbyte wrote: One thing you might consider is when you replace the skirting board that is under the shower is to make it removable so you can open it up and inspect under the shower. I've thought about making mine removable just so I can check under there every so often to be sure nothing is leaking. Right now I have no reason to think it is but you never know! I thought about adding a galvanized pan with a drain tube as well... But you're right that wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm still unsure how ill match up the back wall of the shower if I remove the wall. I rent this motorhome out on the side and have a rental contract for 8/28 (18 days away). So I need to fix'er up quick!Re: Soft floor. A lot worse than thought!! Francesca Knowles wrote: Well, you've solved the two main problems: You've found the true source of the water (and stopped it?) and you've removed the vinyl that's preventing the underlayment from drying out. Some of that wood may well dry out undamaged except for water stains- you may not have to tear out as much as you think. I'd let it get well dry and then assess what actually has to be torn out. One caveat: To prevent mold growth, I'd saturate the wet areas with a strong bleach solution while they're still wet. Doing that to wet wood will help to evenly distribute the bleach throughout. Yes the leak was the 1st threaded joint under the drain. It wal literally pouring out Tuesday. It had never before ran out in the main floor. Now you say about letting dry out I might give that a shot. I wish I'd put a fan on it last night.... I'm a big DIY'er. But thinking of pulling the shower wall scared me last night thinking of doing it myself. I called my neighborhood handyman that's helped me renovate my current house project. He's going to help me pull the shower and wall tonight. I might hold back on cuttin all th way down the bed side. I'm betting that will dry and with bleach should only be water stains Thoughts on type of flooring to put back in? I was thinking of the peal and stick premium laminate squares???Re: Learning the hard wayYour story sounds exactly like the way mine is going. This 08 is our first one. After we bought it we 3 tire balances then replaced tires (came with D rated that bubbled around the rim, replaced with E rated), Onan generator (motor only), windshield, converter, re-attaching cab to house, and now fixing the soft spot that we didn't think was that bad.... My thread from tearing out my floor las night. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27150670.cfmSoft floor. A lot worse than thought!!2008 Holiday Rambler . Bought back in march from a dealer here in Fort Worth. The floor was a little soft between the shower and toilet. Salesman said it wasn't bad and the leak had been fixed. I had planned to fix it this winter after camper season. Fast forward to August and the floor has gotten worse and i located the REAL leak under the shower. I started taking it out last night and discovered its all under the shower, infront of shower, and down wall next to bed. After pulling ply board out last night I discovered it has 1 1/4 inch of styrofoam under the ply board. Then under that has 1/8 inch or so ply board. The aluminum joist are about 32 inches apart. What all should I replace? Do I replace the styrofoam? How about the ply board under the styrofoam? How would I even get to that? I guess I'm going to take the shower and wall out and replace all that wood too.... Wow this turned REALLY BAD Quick!!! Re: Towing with a class c? Road Princess wrote: I have to assume that the travel trailer's umbilical will be plugged into the receiver on the back of the class C. You will need those trailer brakes to fire off when stopping such a combination. True. I recommend brakes over 2500 lbs. Texas law requires 4500 lbs plus. My particular TT I towed behind the Class C is 4400, but I still use brakes, weight distribution, and sway control. Better safe than sorry!!! http://law.onecle.com/texas/transportation/547.401.00.htmlRe: Towing with a class c?I just towed my 28 ft travel trailer with my Class C. It's not something I do on a normal basis. Luckily the TT weighs 4400 lbs. class C max tow weight is 5000 lbs. Texas Law Vehicle Combinations Texas Transportation Code 621.205. A combination of not more than three vehicles, may be coupled together if the combination of vehicles, other than a truck-tractor combination, is not longer than 65 feet. A passenger car or another motor vehicle that has an unloaded weight of less than 2,500 pounds may not be coupled with more than one other vehicle or towing device at one time. A house trailer or towable recreational vehicle and motor vehicle combination may not be longer than 65 feet.