Aluminum_Siding
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Re: Solar Question
Ok so I'ts looking like I'll have to put the pannels on the rear of the roof. Dropping down the 10 awg that comes with the panels. From the controller to the charger (where I'll tie in the wires from the controller) will be about 3 feet. I'll be using 8 awg. The wires from the trailer's charger are 6 awg and the distance will be 25 feet so about a 2% loss. I can certainly live with that. On average 300 wt will be producing 12 amps. This is about 30-40% more than we use. We only run a small 19 inch LCD tv for 3 hours a day (kids) LED's, water pump and the furnace on low during the winter. That's about it. I picked up an extra panel when I really only needed 200 wt. The extra 100 wt is to offset not tilting the panels as well as potential amp/volt loss. I'm assuming hooking it up this way is fine. I'll have a 30 amp fuse between the panels and controller as well as the controller wire connection. Plus the trailer has all it's fuses and relays in tact. Here is a photo of the wire junctions I'll be tying into. The white and black wire are what goes up front to the battery bank. The picture doesn't do it justice. I'ts at least a 6 awg. The wires dont say but they list 600v AWM. Also it's a measurable difference in thickness than some 8 awg I compared it to. I'll post more photos off the install and finished product as I go.531Views0likes0CommentsRe: Solar Question
Thanks. I bought an extra panel for 300 total watts so I can get roughly the same amps as I would with 200 watts tilting. This way I can leave them flat and not fuss with parking east or west. This will also allow all three on the roof up front closest to my battery bank. I'll have 10 ft to the charge controller then 4 ft to the batteries. Thanks again everybody for the advice.529Views0likes0CommentsSolar Question
Hi Folks First off thanks for the years of helpful replies! I'm installing solar panels. I can mount my panels on the roof in front running the wiring down to the controller in the storage compartment. From the panels to the controller would be about 15 feet then from the controller to the batteries will be 2 feet. The second option and would be way more convenient allowing for way better panel placement eg. less potential shading in the late day from one one panel a few feet in front of the other (tilt) or the shroud from the AC etc. It would be on the rear of the roof dropping the cables down only about 10 feet to the charge controller then a couple of feet to the trailers charger. I'd tie in the battery leads to the positive and negative on the back of the trailer's charger that go to the battery. These are pretty thick wires roughly 8 AWG. I understand the first scenario would most likely give me less drop. My questions is, I've seen several vids and how to's where they tie into the battery wires connected to the trailer's charger and use those wires to transfer the power from the controller back to the batteries. Will the loss due to the distance be of any significance. Is this a recommended way of hooking up. Lets say 8 awg at 20 feet from the trailers charger to the battery bank. Also I have two 6v at 235 amp hrs. I'm only installing 2 100 wt mono panels with tilt brackets. (we dont full time or use any major appliances so this is plenty we actually did pretty well on a 100 wt portable suitcase) Anyway thanks.3.1KViews0likes12CommentsRe: Battery Shut off and Storage Question.
westend wrote: Aluminum Siding wrote: Great replies everybody! And some good advice. I actually went to Battery Town today where I bought my new 6v batteries. They recommended the shut off switch in the off position, unplug the trailer and hook up a trickle charger. They first recommended a solar charger but since it's not in storage and I have a plug I bought a plug in kind. So now with the 3 stage trickle charger the batteries will be always topped off. The circuit to the trailer will be cut so no drain there. Lastly the trailer will be unplugged so no wasted electricity and use of the minor electronics. My original intent was to just disconnect once fully charged but batteries will slowly discharge on their own reducing the longevity of the batteries. Again thanks everyone for the awesome replies. That is absolutely the best way to treat your batteries. You may want to make sure you occasionally get the Trojans back up to 14.8V (the pair)if your trickle charger doesn't get that done. I have solar and program the controller to a temp compensated 14.8 V for storage. The controller only goes into absorption for a half hour and then comes down to a float charge. I've been checking with a hydrometer and the solar keeps everything right at baseline SG. About once a year or so I stir them up with 15-16 volts from my shop charger. Thanks I've heard this before. My TT gets them up to about 13.8 before going into a float. I have a friend that stated the same above. He puts a charger to his that he can control and every 6 weeks gets em way up. Forgot what volt but he does the same. I just got the trickle charger and when I shut the batteries off at the trailer fully charged at 13.8 the charger is still showing red for almost 24 hours now. I'm hoping cause its getting them up to the 14.8 mark or so. I'm going to google my trickle changer to see where it floats at. Nothing in the instructions state at what volts it moves to a float.367Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Shut off and Storage Question.
temccarthy1 wrote: Sam Spade wrote: temccarthy1 wrote: I live in NJ and totally remove the battery from my TT which is parked at my house and bring it in the garage to keep it from being below freezing. Wasted effort. A fully charged battery will not freeze until about -70F and being stored in moderate cold actually extends their useful life. Don't know if that is accurate. I'm from Maine, and every boat storage facility I have ever seen removes deep cycle batteries from boats they are storing and puts a trickle charge on them in a heated building... and it gets cold there but never -70! Let's hear some other expert opinions from Rv'ers on whether it is a worth it to remove the battery over the winter and bring it inside where it can get a charge every 4-6 weeks.. If not, every boat storage facility in Maine has it wrong and is wasting time! A boat battery is deep cycle just like an RV, so no difference there. Sorry. Hit quote on the wrong thread.366Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Shut off and Storage Question.
Great replies everybody! And some good advice. I actually went to Battery Town today where I bought my new 6v batteries. They recommended the shut off switch in the off position, unplug the trailer and hook up a trickle charger. They first recommended a solar charger but since it's not in storage and I have a plug I bought a plug in kind. So now with the 3 stage trickle charger the batteries will be always topped off. The circuit to the trailer will be cut so no drain there. Lastly the trailer will be unplugged so no wasted electricity and use of the minor electronics. My original intent was to just disconnect once fully charged but batteries will slowly discharge on their own reducing the longevity of the batteries. Again thanks everyone for the awesome replies.366Views0likes0CommentsBattery Shut off and Storage Question.
Hi everyone. I store my trailer in the drive way. Therefor I can leave it hooked up to shore power 24/7. I have two 6v in series. I just got them yesterday and want to make the most of them. Should I simply leave the trailer plugged in 24/7 keeping the batteries topped off. This will keep all the 12v stuff on when not needed such as circuit boards gas detector blue light on the radio etc.. It will also keep my trailers charger/converter thing running as well. Is there any downfall or undue wear here? The other thought is to disconnect the trailer from shore power and shut the batteries off. Once a week or so plug in the trailer and turn the batteries on for a day to top off the batteries from their normal battery discharging that happens even when they are not in use. What ya all think?8.2KViews0likes65Comments
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