TonyTiger
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Re: B+ motorhomes
Okay, let's see. I don't have leveling jacks on the FW Siesta just use the orange leveling blocks. Works okay. Since my slides are opposed, I have to level the rig for me to feel secure. Past problems with a fridge due to unlevel operation made me paranoid, the TL 235S confirmed it. Level is better. I leveled the rig with a carpenters level then installed two bubbles on the dash and on the drivers door. That way I can find the most level position and then use the marks to decide how many blocks to use. The Ford has been okay for trips. I still like the Chevy floor space but the FW seats are good in the Ford. If I can find my link to webshots I'll post it for you all. Here is a link that I think will work other wise cut and paste it. We were at Wolf's Pond on Staten Island for a dog show. The NY bay is behind us. We had bayfront parking. http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/340791210DhDwUu409Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
TrueLarry Sorry I just got caught up reading the list. I've been reading the C list mostly. The FW Siesta has been a great buy. The double slides give a lot of size and the option to open both or one. You must level up the motorhome before using the slides. Speaking of leveling my TL 235 had a leak at the slide out when parked off level. This eventually damaged the carpeting and subflooring before I figured out the leak. The problem was with the slide side "higher" the water flowed down to the passenger side dinette, forward box seat. I wasted a lot of time looking on the passenger roof, etc. The Siesta model I have is the 24BB. I don't think it is made anymore. I have the Ford 450 Super Duty chassis. We like the Chevy floor space better but this 26 foot model didn't come with Chevy as an option. The Ford has plenty of torque we tow a 2007 Honda CR-V about 3400 pounds and don't notice it. You made the right choice passing on that unit. If the dealer has no pride in the repair to sell the unit how will they treat you after the sale. I think the Lexington has a model much like our Four Winds Siesta. Also Dutchmen I think.371Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
Specs for Libero. 25 foot long, under 10 foot clearance. Very close to some models of the TrailLite. Say the 235? Comes with a Macerator pump, which I would have liked on my Trail Lite. Could dump into a PortaPotty with that! Freedom II Libero Specs - 177" Wheel Base Int. Height 75" (6'3") 1.9 m Rear Bed (Matress) 55" x 82" Int. Width @ floor 89" (7'5") 2.3 m Converted Front Bed 78" x 49" Ext. Width @ Running Boards 96" (8') 2.4 m Towing Capacity 5,000 lbs Ext. Height with A/C 117" (9'9") 3.0 m Rear Axle Ratio 4"10 Ext. Length 300" (25') 7.6 m Fuel Tank 33 US Gallons Dry Weight Approx. 10,000 lbs 4535 kg Brakes 4-wheel disk w/ABS GVWR 12,300 lbs 5579 kg Air Bags Passanger and Driver Engine Vortec 6.0 Liter V* Gas Engine Horse Power 300 @ 4400 rpm Torque 360 ft lt ft @ 4000 rpm Transmission Hydra Matic heavy-duty 4 speed overdrive automatic with Tow/Haul mode LEISURE SPECS Fresh Water Tank 53 US Gallons 183 Liters Grey Water Tank 30 US Gallons 113 Liters Black Water Tank 29 US Gallons 110 Liters Hot Water Tank (Propane/110v) 6 US Gallons 22.7 Liters Box Awning 11'6" Propane Tank w/electric shut off 57 lbs Generator 4KW Gas Onan Furnace 16,000 BTU Ducted Air Conditioner 13,000 BTU Ducted Dometic with Heat Strip FEATURES Macerator pump No isolator automatic solenoid shut off for auxiliary battery Water Expansion lines w/ low point drain WARRANTY LTV 3 years / 36,000 miles or 60,000 kilometers Chevrolet Base Vehicle 3 years / 36,000 miles or 60,000 kilometers Appliances Covered by the individual warranties offered by their respecive manufacturers334Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
UPDATE The replacement of the AC Heater element solved the problem. I ran days on propane gas and evenings on shoreside AC with no break in cooling. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Everything seems back to normal in the coach and we are ready to continue the season.456Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
Okay, the dealer installed the "Heating Unit" as he referred to it, the service manual calls it the AC Heater. Seemed to be a fairly simple 1 hr and 20 minute process from start to finish. I will give it a full test tomorrow and tomorrow night as we get ready for the weekend show. Thanks for all of your help! Giving the dealer a full list of tests and results certainly kept them in line. Total cost of 1)diagnosis day and 2)part plus shipping and 3)install was $184.456Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
Okay Gene, thanks. I had done a search but none fully answered the question. The first link was the closest but I'm not sure it ever was fully answered. The Dealer thinks it is the Heating element (I think that is what I call the AC heater). I used the service manual (downloaded from Bryant RV) to get that diagnosis along with your feedback. They have ordered the part and it should be in next week. I'll let you know how it works out. Tony456Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
Thanks, Gene. Good to hear from you too! I put an Ohm meter on the plug from the power board of the refrigerator. Both terminals to the ground plug one at a time. My lowest setting was 100 Ohm so I can't tell exactly what was happening but I would say a reading of 0 to 1 so it was not definitive. I plugged the refrig AC cord directly into an extension cable and into the barn GFI outlet. The GFI blew as soon as I pushed the refrigerator switch to auto, the "On light" went out. No error flash since it lost power. Strange, I thought the 12 volt might power a message. The barn doesn't have a non GFI outlet so I'll have to wait to get elsewhere to perform that test. I agree all signs are that the AC heater unit or power board has a short. Has anyone replaced that part themselves? My search here and on google has not found much except a service manual on the Bryantrv.com site. Tony456Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
I've known many of you on this list for a long time. I have a MH problem which is general in nature so I thought I'd try it on you first. I'm stumped on this one and don't want to pay the dealer to be stumped at $70 an hour. Four Winds Siesta class C 2005 vintage 5500 miles. Norcold Refrigerator, two door model N611 works fine when set to propane setting using DC current. If I switch the refrigerator to Auto setting to use AC it blows the GFI where I am plugged in. Tried two different GFI circuits to be sure that circuit wasn't goofy. Diagnostics I have tried. Tested the 3 prong AC outlet behind the refrig where it plugs in. Two green lights on the tester meaning it is properly wired. No ground problem indicated. Checked the connectors on the back of the refrigerator that enter the circuit board. All are seated. Removed and reinserted each. Tried to follow the ground wire it disappears through a caulked hole below the interior horizontal wall behind the refrigerator and above the wheel arch. Reemerges behind the controller panel and enters the wiring harness. No obvious crimp etc. All other AC appliances seem to work (don't trip the GFI in the barn) this includes microwave, TV, antenna amplifier. I even tried plugging the little AC vacuum into the AC outlets (after testing each with the tester). History: Had Kwickee step motor replaced last Fall, no obvious problems under there. Replaced both house batteries last Fall due to Kwickee step motor problem draining them repeatedly. Replaced DC Contactor (Isolator solenoid) under the hood which had corroded and was no longer making adequate pass through of power which contributed to the battery replacement issue. Last thing touched was the DC contactor, went and checked; it is wired correctly (the same) as original and matches the diagram that came with the part. Any ideas what to check next? Everything else worked this week, I just set the refrig to gas and had no problems while plugged in to shoreline power. Tony457Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
Burlmart- I added two Dekka gel cell batteries to my Siesta. So far so good, but still tracking down the drain that killed the original batteries. I used group 24 gel cell batteries for RV/Marine. They never need water and tolerate freezing and can't spill. Tony276Views0likes0CommentsRe: B+ motorhomes
Fantastic to see Daniel back again. When I had my Trail Lite with the slide I found that any time I had the right front side lower in parking, if it rained I got a wet carpet behind the driver and into the area between the seats. My assumption was that the lower right side exposed more of the slide and the nose down aspect "torqued" the slide just enough to cause a leak. I solved it by modifying the home parking space with some drive on wood blocks. On the road when we "bedded down" I made sure the rig was very level or slightly lower on the slide side. My rattle was related to the slide's forward mechanism. The two arms met with a pivot rod that was retained by a hitch pin. The rod was longer than needed and let the arms rattle together. I tried rubber hose (recommended earlier in the topic), split grommets and even wrapping some rags. The rags worked the best for noise but I was afraid they would get caught in the arms and actually cause a greater problem than rattle. My final solution was when I sold it and bought the FW Siesta 24BB with the double slide ;<) TT With the wife and kids (1 Dobe and a brand new Border Collie)378Views0likes0Comments
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