Davidlee64
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Electrical Issue?
In the past several days, some electrical issues have popped up. First, the CB for the micro had to be reset. The micro was not in use at the time. Then the ice maker stopped producing ice. I reset all the breakers and it started working again. Then yesterday I went to make some coffee and there was no power to the pot, so I started looking. Everything else was working normally. I determined the problem to be the wall outlet where the coffee pot was plugged in. It is one of those Wirecon WDR outlets. I found the wires loose on the inside. The voltage readings are all over the place. I can get new outlets, but the installation tool is the problem. The only price I can find is $450 for a tool I will most likely never use again is a bit too much. I don't like the methods shown to get around using the tool. There isn't enough room in the wall for a regular household outlet. Any ides where I could rent the tool? Or come up with another idea? Thanks2.5KViews0likes27CommentsRe: Black and Gray Tank issue.
I have a device that allows a hose to hook to the 3" drain line. I can control which tank the water goes into by the individual tank valves. Water goes in, but I have yet to figure out where it is actually going. The sensor lights are showing 3/4 for black, and 3/4 or hovering at 4/4 for the grey. I noticed after all the fooling around, when I flush the toilet, it sounds like the tank is empty. Now for the last couple flushes, it sounds like some water is accumulating. I am going to add about 5 gallons of water into the toilet and see if I get a noticeable output. My next step is going to be to open the grey line at the valve and attempt to replace the valve. It is getting difficult to operate. If it leaks good after opening, I will try to drain the tank then replace the valve.641Views0likes0CommentsRe: Black and Gray Tank issue.
2edgesword wrote: If you're not putting any solids in the tank (I consider taking a dump adding solids) what are you putting in there? I urinate in the toilet then add about 3 cups of plain water. As I said previously, I do not put anything else in the toilet. I have a custom anatomy which can come in handy at times, lol.642Views0likes0CommentsRe: Black and Gray Tank issue.
the bear II wrote: My first thought is you have frozen stuff in the tanks. It's been cold lately so it's possible you may have a giant ice cube in both tanks. The water from the flush would run out as long as the discharge wasn't blocked. It has been a bit chilly here, but I haven't seen much freeze at 50°.641Views0likes0CommentsBlack and Gray Tank issue.
I have been living in my 36' fiver about 1 1/2 years. I have never put any solids or TP in the toilet. Gray is only for normal usage, dishes, showers, etc. I empty the tanks no more than a week. All has been well. We poured a slab and the fiver has been relocated to the slab. I went to empty the tanks, like normal, and nothing came out of either tank. Gray valve is a bit difficult to operate, but this is not new. Black valve works like normal. It has been about a week since the move, and only normal use, but still unable to empty. I would like to empty them for piece of mind to say the least. I have used the flush attachment to add water, and that comes out no issue. What additive would be advised to try and get this to work normally? I am not a happy camper not knowing how much is in the tanks.1.9KViews0likes13CommentsWhat would cause air in water heater / lines?
Suburban SW6DE. Seems to work as it should. Serviced, new anode, electric element. If I leave it turned off, run water, all is well. Turn on to have hot water, I get air through any faucet in spurts. Then eventually air is exhausted, and water flow is normal. After use, heater is turned off to save propane. When I anticipate need for hot water, I turn heater on 15 minutes prior to use. I get air from faucets again. This happens every time. At one point, I just left heater on, and got air every time I used hot water after 24 hours or so of non-use. Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing this? Thanks1.1KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Help with Antenna
I had been having issues with TV reception for the last few weeks after a major windstorm here in Glendale, Az. I got tired of fighting with the junk antenna someone previously had installed, a cheap Wally World $29 special. After doing some research, I found that my RV originally had a Winegard antenna. A Winegard escutcheon plate was on the ceiling, and a Winegard power plate (RV-7042) was on the wall. So I contacted someone to install a new one. I told him I wanted a Sensar IV and a Sensar Pro. I had a few minor issues with the install. The original wall plate had an external coax connector for the TV in the bedroom. The Sensar Pro has no provision on the living space side to connect the TV. I installed a coax pass-through plate, but the connections on the S-Pro are male, and the pass-through is also male on both sides.I used a 12" coax jumper to resolve that problem. It's hidden in the wall, so overall the installation looks factory. Now to the performance of the antenna. The installer fooled around with testing it. The Sensar Pro design forces you to do a little research. I found the info for the channel numbers, instead of the virtual numbers.It seems the majority of transmitters are in the same area somewhere around 15 to 25 miles as the crow flies. The installer decided to use 26 (45.1 DTV) as a random channel to aim at. The antenna was sort of aiming 90° from the transmitter. The Sensar Pro signal was 69. I tested the TV reception and found some channels I wanted didn't work. I settled with the installer and sent him on his way. I now had the time to fool with it. I chose channel 10 after some research. I visually rotated the antenna to where I thought it should be, directly towards the towers. I turned everything on, and the signal was shown as 70. I figured good enough, and ran a new channel scan on my TV. Lo and behold I had more channels showing on the list. I checked the reception quality on the screen of both TV sets. All the channels I watch, and then some, came in perfectly. I marked the the direction with a majic marker on the ceiling plate so I could repeat the direction if I had to put the antenna facing the direction for lowering it. I am very happy with the results and performance of the Winegard Sensar IV (with Wingman) and the Sensar Pro signal strength meter.570Views0likes0CommentsRe: Low propane indicator?
fj12ryder wrote: Harvey51 wrote: It just takes a couple of minutes to weigh the bottle with a suitcase scale and get an accurate weight for the propane remaining. Amazon With the way my bottles are secured in the compartment, it takes more than a couple of minutes simply to get them loose to weigh. And it's a very short compartment and you'd have to lift around 50 pounds with an extended arm in a very awkward position. Not too handy. Which is why I got the Dometic Gas Checker. I saw this item, and another similar device. It would be quite handy to have one. I can use a magic marker to draw a line at approximately full and empty. That will give me a reference when I am checking the tanks. Thanks.338Views0likes0Comments
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