flapbreaker
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Re: Backup Camera and Monitor replacement ?'s
I ran my wires up behind the end cap. I was fortunate in that half way up the end cap I had a center break light. Was able to remove it temporarily so I could fish the wire in stages. As far as the large dash hole goes, I got some 1/8" thick black plastic and fashioned a picture frame. Looks good.820Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A body roll
Not sure if this will help the original poster. I have a 2000 Monaco on an F53 chassis. Body roll when turning or going around a curve was white knuckle especially going downhill as it really felt like it was going to tip over. I started on a quest to reduce this. Started with the cheap handling fix but did not notice a big difference like some folks report. Next I switched shocks out to bilstein. No real difference that I could tell. Changed bushings on sway bars as they were getting worn (one was really bad). Again, nothing earth shattering. Decided to get a little more aggressive and purchased both a front and rear track bar to lock the frame to the axle's. This did improve the roll quite a bit however I still have those moment where the lean seems too much. Mostly going down steeper grades around corners. I'm tempted to do the last thing possible and install airbags or the sumosprings. Not sure which route to go but I'm a bit mint. obsessed at this p371Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chasis A/C condenser - blocking air lfow to radiator?
Update: I removed the fan clutch and ordered a new one. Got to looking around and decided I could probably tackle removing the radiator provided I could drop it from underneath. Turns out I was able to drop it out the bottom. With the fan out and the radiator out I had a lot of working room and decided what the heck, this ain't too hard and removed the water pump for good measure. It seems to spin ok but since they are not too expensive and have it out I might as well put a new one back in. Now I'm thinking while I'm in there I should change the alternator out but maybe I'm getting carried away. Just seem like a good time to do it now. On a side note, the water pump looked like it had a chip in the inside of the housing just behind the blades. From the looks of it, I don't think it came from the factory like that. Wonder where the chip wound up. image by hammond_spencer, on Flickr492Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chasis A/C condenser - blocking air lfow to radiator?
Thanks Scott for the information. My RV is a 2000 Monaco LaPalma 32 foot which I bought last year. It has 25k miles on it. The over heating "issue" was on a recent trip I took where outside temps were in the mid to high 80's. I was towing and the temp gauge got up to the red on multiple small but steep climbs. On one occasion I did over heat it to the point that the engine went into "safe mode". If the outside temps are 20 degrees cooler then I don't have too much trouble. Here's a couple screen shots from my phone showing intake temps and coolant temps. I did not grab any at it's worst temps, these are mainly just cruising down the highway but the outside temp was a lot cooler. I am almost certain the fan clutch is bad. I never hear it. I even started the engine with the motor cover off and although it turns it is not loud so I do not believe it's turning at engine RPM. It's hard to know if the lower hose collapses since I can't see it at highway speeds but I did test it in the driveway and it does not collapse. I am replacing the thermostat because I had it out anyway. I purchased a new one and boiled them both. The new one opens a little further. I think I'll replace the coolant with fresh after I get the new fan clutch and see if that fixes things. These are just examples of my temps, neither one is necessarily alarming although I'd like to think I would be closer to 195 when outside temps are in the low 60's. image by hammond_spencer, on Flickr This one I am climbing a hill but it's only 57 degrees out. image by hammond_spencer, on Flickr493Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chasis A/C condenser - blocking air lfow to radiator?
Since I've never heard the clutch fan I am replacing it. Not sure if this is a valid test but when I removed the clutch fan I applied some heat to the thermal coil. It did move but I could still turn the fan by hand. Not sure if more than the coil needs get hot before the clutch would kick in. Either way, everything I have read say's that the sound is unmistakable and I just don't hear anything different hot or cold.492Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chasis A/C condenser - blocking air lfow to radiator?
It's a 2000 F53 v10 with 25k miles on it. I bought it last year when it had 23k miles so I don't know it's history as far as the radiator is concerned. Everything looks to be of the same age so I don't think there were any aftermarket additions. It did come with a couple partial bottles of anti freeze. Not sure why as it does not leak any. I'll flush the radiator. Was considering just replacing it while I have the clutch fan out but really not sure if it's necessary.492Views0likes0CommentsChasis A/C condenser - blocking air lfow to radiator?
I had some over heating issues while towing in 85 degree weather up hills recently. I've never heard my clutch fan kick in so I am replacing that and also the thermostat (it opens but a new one opens a bit more when I compared the two). Anyway, I know it's important to keep proper airflow through the radiator. While looking around it appears that I have a large A/C condenser that sits right in front of the radiator. The condenser has very thin blades with very tiny spaces. Much smaller than the radiators spaces. Also, in front of that sit's another cooler of some sort. I feel like the A/C condenser would have to reduce airflow through the radiator. Are there different condensers that would allow better airflow or should I not worry about it?2.5KViews0likes13Comments
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Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 21, 202538,705 Posts
