All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: TT keeps popping shore breakerYup, it's too small for much of anything. I'm only using it because the good cord was eaten by a pack rat a couple years ago and i didn't want to feed it another one. Like i said, i checked with a decent cord and had same issue. I'm hoping for a callback from WFCO. I've already confirmed the TT works plugged into a non-GFCI recepticle.Re: TT keeps popping shore breakerI unplugged the fridge and the breaker still popped. I pulled the reverse polarity battery charge fuses and the breaker stayed latched. When I tried to plug either fuse in the breaker popped. I noticed that there was a small spark when I touched the fuse to the terminal which GFCI don't like. I'm going to confirm my garage refrigerator is not GFCI (it shouldn't be) and test the TT there. I'll be calling WFCO tomorrow to see if they have any further thoughts. I assume the spark was because the charge circuit on the converter was still energized. Seems a better design would be to kill that when the battery is not connected but who knows. bkenobi wrote: I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result. As I said, the extension cord isn't the issue but I understand using a thin and long cord isn't a good idea with high current. Since I only use this to keep the batteries charged, the fridge cool (to prevent mold), and maybe a small heater when it gets colder I haven't worried about it. Since it tested good with a different one, that's not the issue.Re: TT keeps popping shore breakerNow that I think more about it, I recall that we did have a similar issue with the TC years ago that resolved for no real reason. I talked to either Parallax or Northern Lite about it and am now remembering that they said a GFCI outlet may not work with a converter as they sometimes have unbalanced hot/neutral. I don't recall why but I'm guessing this might be the issue. I'll try moving to a different 15A plug to confirm. I have the TT in a metal building but there is no power run to it. I have intended to run a 50A out there but haven't gotten to it. If this continues to be an issue, I may have to do something.Re: TT keeps popping shore breakerYou mean locate the 115AC plug on the back of the fridge and unplug it? I hadn't thought of that but sure worth a try. The only things that are AC in the TT that I know of are Fridge (2-way), water heater (2-way), A/C (30A), TV (plugged in but not turned on), and the converter which charges the batteries and provides 12VDC. Thanks for the suggestion! I forgot to mention that this is connected using the TT 25' 30A cable to 15A adapter to 50' 16ga extension cord. I assumed it was the extension cord even though it's been used for both this TT and the TC I had for a few years so I tried with a heavy duty 50' 12ga with the same result.TT keeps popping shore breaker2019 Kodiak Ultra Lite plugged into GFCI outlet from garage. I've had it this way for a few months without issue. We had the power go out last night and when it came back on today I'm having issues plugging the TT in without popping shore breaker. I killed all TT breakers and shore breaker is ok. Turning them on one-by-one the only one causing issues is the one marked "general purpose". I gather this is the inverter which includes all TT 12VDC. I turned the fridge off since I didn't know which it was powered by but no luck. Any idea what to check? We have had the trailer since spring but it hasn't had much use so not sure of how everything works in this TT. I can talk to the dealership next week but it'd be nice to have some things to check since this seems likely something simple and I'd rather not drag it over there for a simple issue (especially since they'd likely have a 2 month wait to get it in). EDIT: In case it matters, the TT converter is a WFCO WF-8955PEC. I've seen a couple topics around that discuss bad converters. Is it possible the converter could have failed with a power fluctuation?Re: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel wellSounds like a good business plan. Hide the crappy design so it's out of warranty before damage surfaces. I imagine insurance wouldn't cover that type of thing so you end up with a trailer falling apart eventually?Re: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel wellYes, that would have been a better approach. When I called and asked them, they talked to a designer or perhaps a "designer" who said that yes, the silicon was in fact the intended seal. And since the plastic clearly expands when heated relative to where it's attached it is designed to leak since there are no sealants available that would cover a 0" as well as a 1/8" gap. They might have been ok should they have had a gap to start but the caulking can't expand an infinite percent. Anyway, I guess I'll just caulk it again so it looks better and rely on the eternabond to actually seal the thing. If the wheel well had to be removed at some point, I would not have it extend around the outside of the walls when reinstalled because, as you mentioned, it will just collect water. Yes, it's just like installing shingles backwards so the water runs to the sheathing instead of shedding over the side. Maybe that's why ducks don't swim backwards lol.Re: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel wellUPDATE 2022 Oct 12: I cut back all the spray foam that was sticking out and made the wheel well pan tabs flush to the fiberglass siding. I had to remove the rubber cover and the screw down strips to get full access which required cleaning the factory silicon all the way across both sides which was fun. Iafter cleaning the surfaces, I installed eternabond as recommended. Since the silicon didnt hold the first time, i decided to use ProFlexfor as my caulking product. I put a dab in each screw hole for good measure. On completion, all looked great. I had no issues with water with the soaker hose so was satisfied. Fast forward to last week where I drove the rig ~3000 miles to southern Utah. I cant say there are any leak issues since the minimal rain we experienced did not make it inside. That said, i see why the fender leaked in the first place. The material appears to expand in the sun so no sealant would ever hold. I can post a picture, but basically when parked or driving on a 80F day the side in full sun buckled between the screws exposing a 1/8" gap between the screws at the front. If the sealant is required for waterproofing then this is a garbage material selwction!Re: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel wellI spoke to another dealer's service department this evening since I was driving past. They told a slightly different story than I've heard so far. They only sell TT where the floor sits above the wheel well. In their opinion, they don't understand how the mfg could design where the fender flare is the water seal since the plastic flare will degrade, crack, or disappear when driving past a tractor trailer. They don't have experience with the lower slung models, so they couldn't offer a solution that they have used. But, they did suggest trying underbelly repair tape. After a bit of review, it looks like it's basically like duct tape but is designed to adhere to the underbelly plasticized fabric and create a waterproof seal that can stand up to road salts etc. It's apparently super sticky so should hold for a long time. Anyone have any thoughts? I've never seen the stuff (they were closing when I got there and the parts dept was already dark).Re: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel well Gdetrailer wrote: Something else to consider, may RV owners trade often, this means the RV design only needs to outlast the warranty or when the owner trades out to another model in a yr or two.. That's something that has become clear at least from those I have conversed with and read comments on various forums. Although the dealers sell these with a 10+ year loan to a lot of people (thus they are "affordable"), they either don't last that long or don't stay with the owner that long. I suppose so long as the insurance covers the loss due to design flaws, most people wouldn't worry about it. Anyway, I'll just have to seal the existing design as best I can to make it last as long as possible. I use my toys, but I try to keep them nice for both myself and in case I want to go a different way in the future. Thanks for the suggestions.
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