davebrown
Explorer
Joined 11 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: laying marble tile in bath?
Bubba Bill wrote: Have a 1995 Damon Intruder. Just got back from Wintering in Fl. The bath, smallish as it is, has been quite usable. However, the carpet has become stained and worn, so we decided to put down marble tile. I discovered they laid the carpet, then put the walls, cabinetry, shower and toilet directly on top of the carpet...never heard of that one!. The subfloor is chipboard. A 'search' suggested putting Hardy Board on top of the chipboard. No way I'm going to try to fit that stuff in such a tiny space! So, the question becomes: what kind of adhesive to put the tile in with. As of now, I'm considering panel adhesive...non-water based. Most tile adhesives are 'water cleanup', which I'm afraid will add to the possibility of buckling, though I must say the chipboard has not buckled next to the shower where it has obviously spilled. Supposedly, there adhesives specially for chipboard, so need a trip to Lowe's. Any thoughts on this? Bill Put down a 5/16 good one side plywood subfloor with glue and screws.Lay your tile with 1/8 spacers and use a high grade polymer added thinset.use a sanded polymer added grout and things will be fine.I have done a lot of flooring in motorhomes.This area is so small u will have no tile problems at all if u use/do what I said482Views0likes0CommentsRe: Washer/Dryer Combo
NaViDa wrote: Hi All, I'm now interested in getting a washer/dryer combo for my "Class A 1998 Holiday Rambler Endeavor" since it has an area in one of the main closet spaces for such an upgrade. Can anyone of you point me in the direction as to where to purchased a reasonably price Combo that you too have enjoyed over the years while Fulltiming in a model similar as mine?? TIA!! Camping world had a sale on last week for the 2100XC (extra capacity) vented model at $969.00. great unit349Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Me to Understand Dry Start ?
DonBaja wrote: Let's assume the Cummins 8.3L diesel hasn't been started for a month. When I turn it over - is it dry metal on dry metal on the main bearings and crank? Or is it possible that the main bearings are sitting in an oil bath of some sort. There are a couple of seconds between the engine firing and the oil pressure coming up. I assume that the bearings feel oil pressure before the pressure sensor does and then the signal has to travel 36 feet to the gauge. I have felt how smooth crankshafts are where they come in contact with the main bearings and I know these main bearings are relatively soft. Having said that - does your engine die a little every time it sits for a month between starts? Are there other contact points like rod bearings that suffer as much or more than the main bearings? Thanks in advance for your insights! short simple answer.NO and u don't need to start the motor every month If you do u must get it up to full operating temperature for XX minutes121Views0likes0CommentsRe: Water Pump and Generator Problems
stoutz429 wrote: We just picked up our 2001 Fleetwood Bounder motorhome from a local dealer, where it had been since mid-December getting some body work done. It spent most of that time sitting outside the facility in very cold Erie, PA winter temperatures, sometimes well below zero degrees, waiting for a service bay to free up so our work could be done. Despite repeated pleas over the course of the three months it was there to make sure the batteries were kept charged, both the engine battery and the coach batteries were dead when we picked it up. We eventually jump started it and made the drive home, where we promptly plugged the coach into an electrical outlet to recharge the coach batteries. We then discovered two problems that did not exist when we dropped off the motorhome with the dealer. First, we noticed the water pump was running and could not be turned off (this may have even contributed to the dead batteries.) The coach was winterized, so there was no water in the system to pump, but any attempts to shut the pump off at any of the switches was unsuccessful. We were finally able to turn it off by removing the DC fuse from the panel. The second problem we encountered was the inability to turn on the Onan generator, either from the dash or from the switch at the generator itself. It clicks but does not start. Before we return the rig to the dealer to address these problems, I thought I would check with you forum readers to see if there was some simple thing we weren't doing that could correct these two issues. Any ideas would surely be appreciated. if the pump runs continuously the controller is most likely shot(about $40)and if the gen set clicks but does not turn over either u have poor battery connection,bad starter or batterys not fully charged or a bad battery/ies263Views0likes0CommentsRe: Driving Hwy 395 ..... Oregon to Nevada
carringb wrote: It's a good route, but expect snow possibly into May. Also overnight plowing sometimes doesn't happen during bad storms. Also, practice installing the chains before you need them. Anything is possible but have driven this route mid march several times and never saw snow other than the odd patch under a shaded tree at summit of a pass891Views0likes0CommentsRe: Torque vs. Horsepower
bobman wrote: The combustion temperature is determined largely by the correct mixture ratio of fuel to air if the boost goes up ( meaning more air is being packed into the cylinder ) then the computer must compensate by lengthening the time the injectors are open to inject more fuel and keep the proper mixture If that didn't happen the engine would run lean and if lean long enough the exhaust temp will exceed the rating the valves are designed for yes I know how the system works I have just never seen it protrayed the way u did,Its called EGT and it for valves and pistons etc just never seen it as :Fuel delivery has to match the combustion volume to keep the valves in the correct temperature range504Views0likes0CommentsRe: Torque vs. Horsepower
bobman wrote: With two engines of identical displacement it has to be different boost levels or the hp is rated at a different rpm or some combination of those two factors Fuel delivery has to match the combustion volume to keep the valves in the correct temperature range not really what the op was talking/asking about but first time in my life I heard that quote:Fuel delivery has to match the combustion volume to keep the valves in the correct temperature range can you explain how this works? how does one correct the temperature of the engine valve and how does one know when its incorrect?215Views0likes0CommentsRe: Torque vs. Horsepower
thgoodman wrote: ScottG wrote: 2oldman wrote: Torque horsepower 2010 Torque horsepower 2012 I'm curious to see an answer to the OP's question as well but not curious enough to read through 75 pages of text. Maybe someone can provide a more condensed or specific answer to the OP's question on his C-13. Well said, Scott. Thank you. I guess I should have been more clear. My actual question was kind of buried it the end of the post. "Could the average Joe sitting in the driver's seat even feel the difference if the modifications were made? " I don't get your question? Your 525HP Cat has more HP and More torgue than a older 475 one to begin with.215Views0likes0CommentsRe: Catalytic converter?
Ramair wrote: On my street rod I had o2 simulators they screw into the bung and plug into the harness which tricks the computer in thinking that all is good. 1. it is illegal to remove and I would get an estimate with labor and most places will minus your deductible so there is no out of pocket expensive for you. Just talk to the shop. This is the newest wave of things the crooks are taking because of precious metal inside of the cat converters. is not scewing with the price quote to insurance company so as to absorb the 500$ deductible not the same as stealing and which is also illegal441Views0likes0CommentsRe: Torque vs. Horsepower
thgoodman wrote: My '06 Beaver Patriot Thunder has a C-13 Cat rated at 525hp. The guy parked next to me last week had a similar size MH (looked like a Prevost but wasn't). It also had a Cat C-13 but it was rated at 475hp but with more torque. I know Cat can change engine ratings both mechanically and electronically (i.e., injector timing?) but I don't know why the coach builders' design specs call for different ratings. What I don't understand is how the torque/horsepower trade off affects vehicle performance and if there would be any advantage to going back and paying Cat to making a change to my engine specs (what would I ask for?). How do the changes affect hill pulling, towing, city vs country driving, fuel mileage, etc? Could the average Joe sitting in the driver's seat even feel the difference if the modifications were made? your C13 525HP should be around 1700lbs torque? I doubt the 475 vertion is higher or as high? you at 525/1750 have more hp/torque than most any RV out there as it sits now so doing anything would be a waste of time and money215Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 23, 201238,705 Posts
