TrekkerB
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Re: Wiring 50 amp RV Outlet to Fuse Box?
beemerphile1 wrote: Wow, a 200 amp fuse panel????? Sounds to me like you need a pro. Upon removing the cover and looking at the label inside, it is actually a 100 amp panel. I thought it was 200 amp based upon an online model search :-) .371Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wiring 50 amp RV Outlet to Fuse Box?
Hmm...sounds like the 50 amp service might be more than I want to tackle. I may just wire a 30 amp outlet instead. If so, I know I wouldn't be able to run both AC's at the same time, but would I be able to run both individually just to check operation? Or would one not work at all because it's on a separate circuit that wouldn't be receiving power? As another alternative, would this work if I ran a 30 amp circuit and a seperate 20 amp circuit?1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Wiring 50 amp RV Outlet to Fuse Box?
Hmm...looks like I have some work to do. The house does have a 100 amp breaker subpanel in a different part of the house (newer addition). It does have a physical opening for a double pole breaker, but does that mean that it actually has room for the extra power demand? If not, how do I tell? Also, it's an additional 50 feet or so away from the location of the RV, would it still be better to add an additional subpanel closer to the original fuse box or just use the one in the back of the house? Thanks, as you can tell, I'm a newb when it comes to wiring.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsWiring 50 amp RV Outlet to Fuse Box?
I'm trying to put in a dedicated 50amp RV outlet for our TT. Unfortunately, the older home we live in has an older Walker fuse box (200 amp). I do have several circuits in the box that are currently unused and was hoping to use two of those circuits (30amp each) to wire my box outside. I went to the local hardware store to figure out what supplies that I might need and was told that I would need two 50 amp fuses to make this work and of course, they don't make them. This doesn't make sense to me, I thought a 50 amp RV plug was simply 2 separate 110v circuits rated at 25 amps each. To me, 2 50 amp circuits would provide 100 amps to the RV. What am I missing?10KViews0likes43CommentsRe: Air conditioning needed?
It depends on where you camp, time of year, amount of shade and your personal tolerance to heat. Nevertheless, yes...a popup can get HOT inside! We have an AC on ours and it can still get unpleasantly warm during the day. AC + popup gizmos + fans,etc. and we can keep it around 75 during the day. Of course, we also camp in Florida during the summer.297Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tennessee Parks
The problem is finding a campground with both full hookups and privacy. In short, it doesn't exist in the immediate area. Your best bet as others have posted is to find something in the Townsend area. You won't have much privacy, but it's better than the Gatlinburg or Pigeon Forge area where you are packed in like sardines. We've stayed at Tremont Outdoor Resort and like it fairly well, but again, not much privacy.246Views0likes0CommentsRe: Questions about Equalizer E4
Update everybody. I called Equalizer today to inquire about the differences between the 1200 and 1400 bars. Salesperson said NO difference! They both use the same bars. The only difference in the 1400# system is that the ball head is more robust to handle the extra load. So...why wouldn't everyone just order the 1400# system?575Views0likes0CommentsQuestions about Equalizer E4
Hi everyone, we are preparing to order a Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE and need to ask a couple of hitch related questions before completing the purchase. We will be towing our new TT with our 2013 Chevy Express 3500 (std. length). We are well within our tongue weight, gvwr and other limits. However, due to the length of the TT vs. our relatively short (135") wheelbase, I want to make sure we get the best hitch available at mitigating sway. I would love to have a premium hitch like Hensley, etc, but it's just not in the budget right now. Therefore, I looking for the next best thing. I'm still considering all my options but have narrowed the focus to an Equalizer E4 for the time being. I know the Reese DC is also a great unit, but I understand they can be very finicky to set up properly. We've also considered the Husky Centerline HD, but I have concerns about the pistons wearing and losing effectiveness during a trip. Finally, I've looked at the Blue Ox Sway Pro, but for the life of me I can't understand how it prevents sway any better than any other system with chain up bars. That brings me back to the Equalizer. I have a couple of questions about it. First, if the bars really don't give that much, then what happens when you drive across uneven pavement (like pulling into parking lots)? It seems that the system would almost try to lift the rear axle as it transitions across the low area. Second, since the bars aren't really designed to give as well as other units, does this cause damage to the TT or TV? I would think it would create metal fatigue in the hitch, frame, etc., and just be rough on the system as a whole. How bad is it? Finally, if I do decide to go with the Equalizer, which system would I need? The GVWR of the camper is 9250#, but the dry weight is only about 7000#'s as optioned. I would guess that loaded for camping we will be somewhere between 8000-8600 #'s. Would I be better off with the 12,000/1,200# system? Or the 14,000/1,400# system? Thanks!2.5KViews0likes10CommentsRe: 2013 Chevy Express 3500 vs. Jayco 32BHDS?
Thanks TexasATM. Nunya, I'm guessing some on the weight. I actually pulled up about 6 units on RVTrader and searched the accompanying photos for the dry weight on the yellow stickers. They averaged about 8,000#'s, I'm also adding a 2nd AC which will add another 100#'s or so. So my best guess is 8,200. If it's slightly more, I would have to be more careful in loading. The 1,500 cargo is also a guess based on others saying to figure 1,200-1,500#'s. We use a popup now, and load maybe 200-300#'s when camping. Even 1,200#'s sounds like a lot of weight for the things we will add.207Views0likes0Comments2013 Chevy Express 3500 vs. Jayco 32BHDS?
We are hoping to purchase a new travel trailer in the near future and just wanted to get some advice concerning the tow-ability of our proposed TT. We tow principally in the southeast with trips of 1-2,000 miles freeway use. We do not dry camp and mostly haul with tanks empty. I do try to keep speeds under 65mph. First the details, our tow vehicle is a 2013 Chevy Express 3500 with the standard wheelbase of 135", it has the 6.0L combined with the 6 speed transmission and the 3.42 rear end. Curb weight is 6087#'s with a GVWR of 9600. Payload is 3513 according to our VIN. Tow rating is 9700 with a GCWR of 16000. Our van has a Curt V5 receiver and is wired with a Prodigy P3 brake controller. No hitch yet, but am looking at either an Equalizer or Dual Cam. We have been looking at the Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE which I believe that our van will handle without a problem, but we really like the 32BHDS better. The problem is of course an extra #1,000 plus a couple of feet longer. Am I crazy to even consider this? Here are my calculations: Van 6087 Camper 8200 People 500 Cargo 1500 Total 16,287 which puts me right at (slightly over) GCWR. Payload shouldn’t be a problem, but not sure about the rest. The extra length gives me concerns as well. What do you think? Is it doable without making the towing experience miserable?1.2KViews0likes5Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Apr 19, 201944,027 Posts
