Jerry9n
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Joined 17 years ago
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Re: tank level indicator retrofit
I put in the Horst probes a number of years ago. First I found the mfg of the trailer put the probes in the wrong place (per the level mfgs instructions) so I relocated a couple. Since then they have worked near perfectly. If the black tank doesn't a thorough flushing of the tank fixes that, and for the money, they suit me fine. After 7 years with this trailer I pretty well know how long the tanks will last.301Views0likes0CommentsRe: What wheel stabilizers will fit.
Once someone posted a pic of chocks made from Harbor Freight woodworkers clamps. I made a set and have used them for 7 years with no problems. You can hand tighten them and believe me, they won't budge (don't ask how I know). Simple, easy and inexpensive. Harbor Freight Clamp: Finished product:276Views0likes0CommentsRe: Repairing water damaged floor
I used the Minwax product and actually found something a little better. West Marine has a penetrating epoxy. Works quite well. I mentioned it to our RV dealer service dept. and they are using it for soft spots. Worth a look. I have learned for repairs, boat/marine supplies are better than rv repair items. Click Here306Views0likes0CommentsQuestion on Exterior Door Skin
I have a 1965 Homescraft trailer I am rebuilding. The existing exterior door is shot. It is aluminum skinned white on the exterior and wood paneling on the inside. It has a Jalosie window in it. My question is where do I get a sheet of white anodized aluminum, wrinkle finish for the exterior? Approx 2' X 6'. Have looked through yellow pages and internet. Only other thing I can think of is FRP panel, but it says that they are not UV proof or suitable for wide temp swings (although I know they use some kind of FRP on commercial entrance doors). Any help on locating a source for the aluminum will be appreciated. I am just west of the Detroit area. Thanks.2.1KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Just Suppose
Tough question since quality can always be improved with time and money, neither of which are given out readily. That being said, I think most of the quality complaints can easily be solved given a dose of these. Boiling it down to a couple of areas: 1. Water leakage (which causes delamination and wood deterioration. From what I can tell trailers are being built much they way they have been since the 1965 trailer I am restoring. Sidewalls but up against each other and roofs, are jammed with putty and covered with metal strips. Also roof seams and penetrations are generously gooed with caulk. There are better ways, but right now the easiest way would be the generous use of some strip sealant like Eternabond. I think this would eliminate leaks and about 75% of the complaints. Next is floor structure. Either the sandwich foam structure of just a sheet of OSB. Two thoughts. My 1977 Jayco PUP had a plywood floor exposed to the bottom (no insulation,just an undercoating) and it held up with no rot in the 31 years I had the trailer. The 1965 trailer I am working on has a plywood floor, had fiberglass insulation and sat on a Celotex siding (1965 homebuilding product) that was exposed to the road. Again I saw no rot on the plywood or wet insulation. Only problem with the floor was in the corners where the edges leaked (see item #1). Finally is general construction technique. Most trailers, cabinetry and the like are assembled with an air stapler and framing lumber, like 1 X 1 covered in paneling. Again, time and money would fix this. Obviously there are a lot more but you get the idea. JU77Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts
