All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsCeiling Stain RemovalWe have a very light cream or off white ceiling headliner. It is very carpet like. We had a fairly large area of staining in the bedroom by the air conditioner duct and a smaller one up front. After fixing the duct and the front air conditioner drain, removing the stain was really becoming a project. No matter what we tried it didn't seem to work. Rummaging around in the garage I found some InVinceable that we had gotten at the fair last year. Yes, it's the same stuff that they advertise on As Seen On TV. I figured what the heck, we had it, no loss but I wasn't really expecting very much from it. Much to my surprise the stuff worked, even though I messed up and didn't mix it to its highest strength. I sprayed it on, rubbed it in with a paper towel and away went the stain. For a couple of the really bad areas I had to do it twice but it actually worked! I was absolutely amazed! For the stain up front I used the brush provided with one of the failed concoctions that I had purchased to make sure that it got into every nook and cranny of the carpet-like ceiling. It did that one too! The only drawback with the stuff is that it is only good for about 4 hours before it loses its potency. Since I did not have lots of things to do other places I poured the rest in with a load of laundry. As I said above, I am extremely surprised by the efficacy of this stuff. If you can get it I recommend that you give it a shot. Remember, you may have to use it twice on some of the worst stains and be sure to make plans to use it all.Do You Have An Atwood Furnace That Won't Light?So did I. Everything seemed to be working fine in my 8535 -lll. Had a propane smell, blower worked, thermostat worked, just didn't want to light reliably or stay lit. Atwood/ Dometic was no help. Told me to look at the sail switch which I KNEW had to be working or the gas solenoid wouldn't actuate. WARNING: DO NOT TRY THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH HIGH VOLTAGE AND LPG. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR! Before doing ANYTHING get yourself a furnace schematic and a furnace blow up diagram so you know what goes where. I took out the igniter. Some fun. First you have to remove the exhaust which just pulls out after some persuasion. Then, shut off the LPG at the tank, disconnect the ignition wire and solenoid wire at the ingiter. Four screws and the gas fitting later you can persuade the burner to come out. Now for the good part. Measure the space between electrodes. It should be about a quarter of an inch. Mine was an eighth. Gently bend the electrodes apart or together until you get about a quarter of an inch spacing. To test, hook the ignighter and gas solenoid wires back up to the igniter. Hang the igniter assembly from the door with the electrodes facing up. Fire the heater as you normally would. After the appropriate delays you SHOULD get a visable, repetitive, rapidly snapping spark between the electrodes for about five seconds. If you get no or a weak spark the problem could be the board or electrodes. Mine originally tested very weak and did not repeat, but when I opened the electrode gap to one quarter of an inch the difference was dramatic. Reassemble and test. I highly recommend using SNOOP or some other leak detector at the propane fitting after you have reattached it. A leak could be deadly! Remember that the propane line will be empty so it will take a few tries to ignite. After all of this my furnace now lights and runs flawlessly. Once again, this procedure is NOT for someone who does not know how to work around flammable gasses and / or high voltage. You could be killed, or even worse! You have been warned!Re: How Do You Keep The Waste Compartment Pipe From Freezing?Great idea! Thanks!How Do You Keep The Waste Compartment Pipe From Freezing?For those of you who are year-rounders or camp or transit in cold weather, how do you keep the waist discharge compartment piping from freezing? My compartment does not seem to be heated, is yours? If not, what do you do to keep.the waste in the pipes from freezing?Has Anyone Ever Upgraded Their Power Distribution?Has anyone ever upgraded their power control to a digital readout and/ or their electrical service? I am contemplating a 30 to 50 amp upgrade, essentially to run the AC units off one leg and the rest of the coach on the other. Also wanted to upgrade the battery disconnect to a Powerline controller with digital readout. Yeah I know . . . . . But it's a rainy day and I'm bored.Re: HURRICANE COMINGSecure the house and LEAVE! Floods, wind, trees. Get the H outta Dodge. West or South. Check the anticipated cone. Ya have three days. Use 'em!Re: Remote switches not working on GensetHad the same problem. Wires at the remote start plug on the genny were corroded. Rewired. Fixed it.Re: Plug and Play Fluroscent Replacements Executive wrote: F4Jock wrote: Executive wrote: WalMart $8 NY Luminaries $17 Your choice....Dennis Tried the Walmart ones today. No comparison in quality to the NY ones. Very touchy in my fixtures. Also NY 6K temp Walmart 5K. Walmart ones probably going back unless I can figure out why they are so sensitive. My post wasn't meant as any kind of endorsement either way. Some folks buy things based only on price, others only by quality. Fortunately, we all have a choice on what and why we purchase things. An earlier post asked about the price...:)....Dennis Didn't think it was. No worries. Just that having tried both there is no comparison. To me, having tried both, it's like comparing a Yugo to a Corvette.Re: Plug and Play Fluroscent Replacements Executive wrote: WalMart $8 NY Luminaries $17 Your choice....Dennis Tried the Walmart ones today. No comparison in quality to the NY ones. Very touchy in my fixtures. Also NY 6K temp Walmart 5K. Walmart ones probably going back unless I can figure out why they are so sensitive.Re: Plug and Play Fluroscent Replacements wa8yxm wrote: How much did you pay? I got some 5 Meter LED strips peel and stick (3m tape) backing from Amazon for less than 10 bucks each. Took out my short (8 watt) Tubes and removed the ballast. Cut the 5 Meter long into fixture length strips and stuck 'em down Soldered jumpers to all strips work (There is a way to do it without soldering jumpers on but I'm trained in soldering done a lot of it). WOW is the word I'd use too. Very very happy with results. ONly remaining florcesent is a 120 volt table lamp in the bedroom. The difference is amazing isn't it? Yeah, I saw all that about strips and I could do that too but I would opt for the non solder method because even though I can do it it's a p i t a. I like the bulbs better because they're so bloody simple to put in. Glad you liked the difference whichever you chose.
GroupsMotorhome Group Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Mar 12, 202538,710 PostsRV Families Activities, advice, and destinations for those traveling with kids!Oct 09, 2024501 Posts