truepath
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battery not charging from shore power
I have a house battery charging problem on my class B that I need some help with. Here is the situation: the house battery will not charge from shore power or from the generator, but it does charge when the vehicle engine is running (there is a solenoid connecting the vehicle charging system to the house battery). The generator will run, but only if the vehicle engine is running. The house 120 volt system works with either house power or generator power (until the generator shuts down). I think that either the power switch is not sending power to the converter, the converter is not functioning or there is some kind of continuity break in the wire from the converter to the battery. Suggestions on how to go about isolating the problem would be appreciated. Thanks.830Views0likes6CommentsRe: What do you tow with your B?
I was recently talking with a transmission mechanic who had just finished rebuilding a Dodge 4sp with OD transmission for a friend of mine. The transmission was trashed when the van was used to pull a sail boat several hundred miles. The mechanic told me that the OD on these transmissions are prone to failure when called upon to pull trailers. He recommended turning OD off when pulling anything other than a very small trailer and even then he recommended turning OD off on long inclines or traveling into strong headwinds. This is going to require slowing down, unless you want to spend a fortune on fuel.317Views0likes0CommentsRe: how long let b sit before starting
I have an old Chevrolet van I have used for years as a camper. I park it in November (outside in Minnesota), remove the battery (or use a trickle charger) and don't start it again until April. That has work for 20 years. I do the same thing with my newer Dodge based B and again, I have had no issue getting either running in the spring. Be sure the tires are aired up in the fall and be sure to check them again in the spring. Park on a solid surface (not grass). I always change the engine oil in the fall before storing and obviously you want to have the RV well winterized before putting it to bed for the winter. I used to always fret about leaving the vehicle(s) sit all winter, but experience has taught me that fretting over this is a waste of energy.136Views0likes0CommentsRe: Proper gear
I recently had a conversation on this topic with a transmission mechanic who was rebuilding my friend's van transmission. His unequivocal advice was to get the transmission out of overdrive and into a lower gear whenever there is any significant load. He advised not using overdrive when towing anything and to drop down a gear when going up even moderate hills, particularly when pushing a headwind. This advice was premised on the vehicles in question being class B RVs which are heavy to begin with and also have significant frontal area air resistance. Slowing down is also probably in order.339Views0likes0CommentsRe: High top conversion van Handling in the wind
The first thing I would look at are the tires and it sounds like you have done that. I hope you installed light truck tires NOT car tires. Years ago when I got my first van, the previous owner had installed car tires. I suppose that seemed reasonable since they came in the correct size and were inexpensive, but the handling was terrible. I could not believe the difference when I installed proper tires. After eliminating (or correcting) tires as the source of the handling issues, I would take a look at adding some kind of rear suspension enhancement. I have used helper leaf springs which really did help, but better yet is a rear air bag system which helps more. Finally, you might consider a "Safe T Plus" type steering control system which really amounts to a large shock absorber that connects to and stabilizes the steering system. I have one on my Dodge Leisure Travel Van and it makes a difference. Beyond all of this, high profile vehicles are inherently going to be more susceptible to side wind loads than other vehicles. Driving slower in windy conditions is usually required.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Pics of My 77 Dodge Vandicraft Class B & a Tire question...
I really like those older classic B's. Nice score. As for tires, there are about as many opinions of what brand is best as there are people with opinions. The LT advice is absolutely correct, beyond that I would just take all the information in, see where the consensus seems to fall, look at your planned travels with respect to winter driving, gravel roads, etc. and what is available to you locally. Oh, be sure to check the manufacture date on both your old tires and on the ones you plan to buy. Tire people seem to recommend that tires be replaced regardless of wear after about 8 years and I think this is valid advice. I've seen tire dealers selling tires that are already 2 plus years old and I would reject them.360Views0likes0CommentsRe: newer vs lower mileage
The older unit is going to be much less expensive for all of the reasons listed here. If you are into DIY, I'd buy the older, low mileage vehicle, update tires, hoses, the rest of the stuff that goes bad. Yes, you might have to deal with not having the latest and greatest and you might have to fix stuff, but you have a lot of saved money to handle it. I don't think there is necessarily a "right" answer to this question.323Views0likes0Comments
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