Possumpoint
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Re: Stripped Gear On Slide Alignment System
Update: It took nearly three weeks and as many 1 hour trips to the RV dealership to get the correct new part. Put it on and broke it the next day when I extended the slide to adjust it. Slide was working but wouldn't close all the way. Slide jammed when I tried to retract it and I broke two teeth on the new gear. Realized that I had a major problem, was in over my head, and put the old gear back in to close the slide. The following Monday, yesterday, I took the RV to a different RV dealership about 2-1/2 hours from our house where I've had good service in the past. Went down the road with the slide sticking out about 4 inches. They just called me (12:30 pm Tuesday)and told me what the problem is, what caused it and that they had the parts and the trailer may be ready tomorrow. The root cause was that there was a 18 tooth gear on one side and a 15 tooth one on the other side with a solid shaft between. That mismatched gear system and one of the gears being drilled off center screwed everything up. Glad I realized I was over my head. They tell me the ram is so screwed up they're going to have to cut it out.305Views0likes0CommentsRe: Black water problems
I had a recurring problem with toilet paper clogs in my travel trailer. I tried various products to correct the problem with very poor results. I then went to wally world and bought three items. First was a watering wand about 3ft long with an on/off valve just below the hose connection. The terminal end produced a water shower effect. The pipe was bent about a 45 degree angle near the shower end. The second was a hose connection sometimes call a concentrator. This fitting narrows the stream down to about a pencil thickness to give a higher pressure stream. This fitting also had an on/off valve that really isn't necessary. If you can find one with out the valve it would be better. The valve handle tends to collect debris during the clean out process. The third was nylon thread tape. I removed the water shower head and using tread tape, added the concentrator nozzle. Because of a large water leak found the first time I tried to use the assembly, I tread tapped the hose connector where it threaded onto the wand. With the use of a split tree, I bent the pipe a wee bit more to assist in inserting it into the tank. The first two times I used it debris and fluids were right below the base of the toilet. I inserted the assembly into the tank with the black tank discharge valve open and water turned off at top of wand, gradually opening the water valve and started rotating the wand back and forth trying to drive the products towards the outlet pipe. After fluid level dropped, used the wand to push the mound under the toilet towards the drain. Darn thing worked good. Showed it to my RV neighbor and he built one for himself and also has had good results. He had the problem because he insisted on using regular toilet paper. Be aware of a tendency to receive splash back if you aim the stream directly towards solid or semi solid surfaces. Always try the use the stream at an angle (don't ask me how I found this out).445Views0likes0CommentsStripped Gear On Slide Alignment System
Slide bound up with loud popping noise when close to Travel Trailer body. Slide out uses a rack and pinon gear system on two sides connected by a shaft to keep the slide aligned as it extends and retracts. Found slide to be out of alignment by 5-1/2" and the gear on rack and pinion alignment system on one side of the slide out stripped. Looking closer, this was caused by the hex-angular hole in the gear being not centered. There is a visible difference in distance from edge of hole to the root of the teeth on one side of the gear versus the other. The narrow side is where the teeth stripped. Have been delayed with a trip for 15 days waiting for that part. Was told twice that the gear was in and it wasn't the right one. This is a 2003 Citation Skydeck, 32 ft, tt by the way. Not seeking advice on this in that I know what the problem is and what caused it. Little upset that the RV dealership has had such a hard time getting the replacement part delivered. Thought I'd pass on what I found so that it might help someone else.2.3KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Black Tank Leak
westend wrote: I would be thinking about securing the pipe with some good hangers. I thought most ABS drain pipes are solvent welded to the ABS tank. It sounds like you have a mix of materials. Is it possible that you had a through-tank rubber seal on the pipe and the back half sheared off? Something like this:tank grommet Thank you for the information and link to black tank supplies. You've got me thinking that it could be a broken grommet instead of what I thought it was. Got to wait for things to dry out and I can work with it and see what is what. If it is a rubber grommet, that's a hard piece of rubber. There is an over flow of white cement from where the internal grommet is glued to the tank. Thought that it was the same cement used between the grommets.392Views0likes0CommentsRe: Black Tank Leak
So far as I can tell the grommet isn't broken, the cement between them has failed. Am considering disconnecting both black pipes at the valves and attempting to pull the black soil pipe out of the tank. That may/may not work depending on how far around the grommet the cement has failed. If that works, then I can clean both grommets and re-cement.392Views0likes0CommentsRe: Black Tank Leak
The tank leak discussed in the OP occurs between the white grommet installed inside the tank and another white one the black pipe is inserted in. During construction, the two grommets were pushed one inside the other at the tank wall, the tank outlet. The cement between the two grommets has failed. There is no leakage from the black pipe. I assume the stress of bouncing down the road and operation of the black tank valve are the causes. If you push on the black pipe you can open the gap between the grommets and increase the flow. Otherwise, it's a annoying, smelly drip. The juncture of the two grommets is raised about 3/8" above the level of the black pipe and the space between the terminal lip on the inside grommet and flange edge on the outside grommet is about 1/8". This presents a rather narrow surface to seal. Once I get it sealed I have to secure the black pipe in such a way to avoid repeating the damage. Not knowing the composition of the white plastic grommets is causing a problem in knowing what product(s) to use. Any suggestions?392Views0likes0CommentsRe: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
Called Dealership to inquire if warranty repairs have been completed. Was told our unit went into the shop today. Should be ready early next week. Getting real close to 7 weeks waiting now. Two of those weeks were lost while waiting for approval of the repairs and another week and half were lost waiting for parts to be shipped in.183Views0likes0Comments
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