malmz
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Re: Time to replace one A/C unit, 2001 Fleetwood Disco
I've learned a lot in the last 24. Since I am staying Coleman, I can use the new top unit with my lower mount. Since I am ducted I only need the top unit, but since I have dual climate zones with the optional electric heating element, I needed to order a unit with the element (or add it on) and an optional controller board within the air conditioning unit. Good thing is it looks like my Mach 1 controller board is compatible with the Mach12 I ordered. Now it is just a waiting game for a week until I have the unit so see if everything bolts up and connects the way it should...142Views0likes0CommentsTime to replace one A/C unit, 2001 Fleetwood Disco
If anyone has input on this one, let me know. I will be ordering a new unit Monday morning. I have a pair of Colemans with electric heat capabilities. I don't see the direct cross reference to my s/n, but it looks like I have a Mach 1. Assuming about 12500 btu. I do have 50 amp service, so I cam looking at the Mach 3 or Mach 15, but I am leaning towards the Mach 15 since this is my forward a/c unit that we demand more on. I have ducted air, so it looks like I can order a Mach 15 top unit and add on electric heat element. From there I hope the install is pretty straight forward. Does anyone know if the Mach1 and Mach 15 have the same mounting points? Any other input is appreciated.970Views0likes2CommentsRe: incandescent lighting to LED
pinkflydxx wrote: I recently purchased various LED's from Ebay (via China). I tried to match up the brightness ratings (lumens) to my current incandescent bulbs. Two problems: 1. The LED's SMDs (surface mounted devices) worked in all of the sockets, however, in many of the light fixtures, they would get excessively hot (even for an LED bulb). Two of them became so hot, they began to smoke from the heat generated! I took them out and shortly thereafter replaced them all with the original incandescent bulbs. Many of the non-smokers were brown and probably on the verge of smoking. I realize they may get hot, but something was wrong if they get so hot they smoke. I'm not sure if they were defective or this would have been expected with the high lumen ratings. Buyer beware. 2. After putting LED's in all my fixtures, I felt that the light seemed very "unnatural" - almost too white, and a creepy "washed-out" feeling to the color of objects under the LED lights. Too each their own, but beware of the Chinese made LED's. 10 to 1 odds you were on shore power when they fried.(?) This is the problem with unregulated LEDs in RVs with aggressive battery chargers. Additionally, as some chargers age, their control also becomes worse. Number one reason to buy reputable lights and not random sourced ones. Also, even some regulated bulbs do not have robust enough circuits to handle the power. You will find some forum posters that strongly disagree with this information, but I have personally seen it many times.423Views0likes0CommentsRe: How to convert to LED lighting
AZDesertRat wrote: Has anyone tried replacing the large spotlight bulbs in a Weekend Warrior or Ragen Toyhauler yet? I have replaced most of the interior bulbs (20 ea. so far and not done yet! I didn't realize it has so many bulbs) and just found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-CA-SELLER-LED-H3-High-Power-LED-for-Weekend-Warrior-Flood-Lights-US-SELLER-/200921731204?ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:US:1123 My Ragen doesn't have a porch light, only the two spots and they are hellish bright when you only need a little "mood lighting" when boondocking. One of the guys with a Warrior we know has those. They are not as bright as the original, but plenty bright. He actually uses his lights now.252Views0likes0CommentsRe: My LEDs
KendallP wrote: Hmmm. Heat sink design. I like the idea. Price seems reasonable with that in mind. I paid more for my first panels... "back in the day" (way back 2 years ago or whatever it was. :) ) It has 5050 SMD LEDs. Should be plenty bright. 16 LEDs * 15L ea = 240 Lumens. That's about equal to one of my 1141 incandescent bulbs; medium bright, but focused toward the room. I have buck regulated bulbs and I don't notice any RFI over AM channels. I believe it is more a problem for Ham guys than it is the rest of us. I say be our guinea pig; give one a try and report back! Be sure to check for RFI. Heat sinks are the key to LED longevity, especially bigger LEDs that do create heat. I have heard of a lot of plate lights where they have a single plate and the tape won't stick once they heat up. Problem solved with these...404Views0likes0CommentsRe: Experience Swapping Battery Control Center Board?
tomousecap wrote: Have you carefully checked the Jump Start switch for stuck on or arced together contacts? I did that before the board swap. I disconnected the jumpstart switch at the time. Good though on point though, I need to identify which wire goes directly from teh jump switch and where it comes into the board and disconnect it there. I have a feeling it is in one of the large connectors though. At this time, the temp solution is to disconnect the twin molex that goes to the jump solenoid when I get to somewhere I am boondocking. I will have to mess with it more this weekend once the rain passes. Steve740Views0likes0CommentsRe: Experience Swapping Battery Control Center Board?
So I finally made the time to swap the board the Wednesday before Thanksgiving. Good news is the swap itself is not bad. Bad news is the board swap didn't solve the problem. The hardest part about the swap is getting removing and reinstalling a blind ground screw that is behind the board that screws into the inside of the metal control center case. The only other glitch was that the crimp connector came off of one wire, so I exteneded and replaced that wire/crimp as well as a sister one to that wire. Not a big deal, just one of those things that happends when R&Ring a part like this. So the symptoms are the same. When the aux cut switches are on, the battery jump solinoid is always energized, so when boondocking not only do all of the batteries discharge together, they discharge faster since the solenoid itself is drawing substantial current. I have the service manual actual manual for the contol center and in troubleshooting it displays this problem, and the solution is to replace the board. Nothing further. I guess I will try to give their tech a call tomorrow to see where to turn next. If anyone want to see pictures of the system, I did take some for reference when replacing the board Steve740Views0likes0CommentsRe: Samson Tires????
My friend owns a tow company and runs them on his trucks all the time due to the cost. When I needed six new 22.5s last year (ouch) I bought the Sampsons. My $0.2. I am not worried about durability since he runs them hundreds of thousands of miles. The first thing I noticed though is they tend to wander at speed down the highway, even after they have some miles on them, compared to the Michelins that were on there. I would think twice about putting them on the front next time around. it is not a dangerous wander, just more noticable. I would consider putting them on the rear 4, and running Michelins or something else up front to help defer the overall cost. Personally, I am not worried about rotating front to rear because I will never accumulate the miles to wear them down before the DOT dates are too old and I would replace them anyway. We probably only accumulate about 3000 miles per year on the pusher.288Views0likes0CommentsRe: Experience Swapping Battery Control Center Board?
Thanks for 2manytoyz for the write up too, I just clicked through to that. Before I replaced it with the Big Boy, my factory 200A solenoid was working but was buzzing like crazy at all hours on and off shore. I could wack the case and it would stop, but eventually come back. I never tore it down and it is still on my desk. It is much smaller then the Big Boy physically. The part number cross references primarily to an aviation part and they were all over $200, thus the Big Boy.740Views0likes0Comments
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