Chef_Tim
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Batteries. Breaking taboo?
Ok so here's my question. Due to a real knuckleheaded move on my part this winter, I had to replace my 2 group 24 deep cycle batts this season. Don't ask. And no I did not get 6 volt and it's too late to get 'em now. That being said, I have an extra Group 27 battery in very good shape not doing anything. Can i wire this in parallel to my group 24's that are wired in parallel to increase the bank size? my understanding (limited though it may be!) is that batts wired in series have to be same everything, but wired in parallel they can be different size (need to be same voltage though). Any reason I should not do this? Thanks in advance. BTW thanks to all those who answered questions with the solar install. Followed some recommendations and it is working like a charm.1.4KViews0likes5CommentsRe: Where to run solar panel wiring
was also going to do the exterior wire run but decided to go through the fridge vent instead. i also wired my trailer through the panel and didn't run solar cable from the controller to the battery directly, as was going to be too much trouble to get behind walls, etc. made sure i wired an inline 200 amp breaker between panel and controller and a 60 amp fuse between controller and panel/battery charge wire.468Views0likes0CommentsRe: Solar install question
corvettekent: yes, thank you. wish i could go a shorter route to batts, and i realize i will lose some wattage. however, it's my only option. in the future i'll add another 150w panel and at that point i might try to re-route the charge controller closer to the front of the coach. Tim368Views0likes0CommentsSolar install question
Hi all. I am wanting to install a solar panel on top of my Aspen Trail 1700db TT. I know enough about how solar works to understand the BASIC relationship between panel, charge controller, and battery, and how to connect them in the most simple terms. Here's the equipment I want to install: - Kyocera 150W panel - 30A MPPT charge controller + MT-50 meter (I will add another panel later) - 40ft solar cable, 10awg - 2x12 volt deep cycle batts (wet) Planned install: Mount panel atop slightly curved rubber roof; run solar down through fridge vent to charge controller mounted in a cabinet next to the fridge. This is doable for me. But here's my problem: due to the configuration of the TT, it would be very difficult to connect directly to the batteries, located outside the coach on the tongue. I'd like to connect the charge controller to the batteries via the converter, a WFCO 8955. Apparently this is how the rv dealership where i purchased my trailer adds solar, for which they charge about $500 bucks + the cost of (overpriced) GO Power panel (160W). The dist. panel board has 2 white wires on the DC side (1 going to converter and the other (battery?) going to a buss behind the converter. it then leaves the buss and drops into a hole in the floor, so i assume this goes out to the batteries. For the positive, there's a black cable connected at the board, plugged into 1 of 2 lugs. the other lug on the board is open. I have seen a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqfIjfF5eGQ&list=PL_8gRzheasijMxKqQ30cP_4QGoYZeSnPB. At the 9 minute mark the video demonstrates what I want to accomplish. However, my unit doesn't have wire nuts, only the negative going into the buss, and then just the positive disappearing into the floor. I am wondering if I can do the following: - plug the neg charge controller cable into the buss - plug the pos charge controller cable into the open lug on the board. I'd also like to install a kill switch. Any reason I SHOULD NOT do this? Again, this is up for consideration only because after going under the trailer and seeing how everything is hidden behind either darco or coroplast, i'm looking for an easier way to accomplish my goal. Thanks for reading this very long post. Tim3.6KViews0likes12Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts
