23hotrodr
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Re: Slide room lock ??? on Winne MH
dougrainer wrote: The 625 system has nothing to do with your type of HWH slide lock system. 625 is the Jack control system. But, I have never had to work on a Winne slide lock. The only system have worked on with HWH slide locks was the mid 2000 model Mandalay Diesel motorhomes from Thor. Those HWH slide locks were NOT in the ceiling, but in the Overhead cabinet of the slide box. Same basic system. But, should be able to get to the Microswitches by removing the bezel as you explained. I never had a problem or failure of the Microswitches in any of the Mandalay's I worked on. I DID have intermittant failure of the same type microswitches on the Newmar Autolock system(not HWH brand). In spite of what some people think, the REASON slide locks are installed is NOT TO STOP THE ROOM FROM GOING OUT IN TRANSIT, BUT TO GET A POSITIVE SEAL ON THE TOP OF THE ROOM WHEN RETRACTED. Also, to keep the room from moving back and forth(jiggling) when driving. With a Hydraulic system like HWH's if you activated the pump with slide locks in place, it WOULD attempt to extend and the damage would be incredible. Doug Thanks Doug- The lock is in the upper cabinet of the slide room. It is all working properly now that I got it unjammed. I was just wondering that if I removed the entire unit, I could possibly lube the upper parts that are not exposed right now. Now that all is working correctly again, I should probably leave good enough alone and re-install the outer hard plastic cover. Thanks for all your good advice. -- Mick526Views0likes0CommentsRe: Slide room lock ??? on Winne MH
Ed C wrote: We had a '11 Journey with slide locks. They broke a couple of times. There is a tiny "micro switch" in side that is very fragile. I took them out and never used the locks in 75,000 miles of traveling without a problem. Thanks for your response. -- Mick527Views0likes0CommentsRe: Slide room lock ??? on Winne MH
dougrainer wrote: http://server51.hwhcorp.com/?page_id=61777 Is this the HWH lock system you have? Doug Or this one? http://server51.hwhcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/ml41035.pdf Or this one? http://server51.hwhcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/ml39511.pdf Thank you-- I have the HWH 625 system. I was able to get it unjammed. I also figured out that the 2 micro switches are normally open and the lock must be in the fully un-locked position for the system to move the slide room. Do you know if I remove the 8 screws going upward around the perimeter of the mechanism into the ceiling of the slide room, it then can be completely removed without doing anything on the outside? It seems very stuck and I did not want to really try and pry it off without knowing for sure. I thought that if I could remove it, I might be able to lube something other than just the drive screw that becomes exposed when moving it to the locked position. Thanks again-- Mick525Views0likes0CommentsSlide room lock ??? on Winne MH
I have a 2007 Itasca SunCruiser 35l. The front living room/dining room slide has a slide lock at the top that is electrically operated. This last time out, it stuck in the unlocked position (could still use slide out). I am trying to figure out exactly how this works and cannot find out any info on it. It seemed to be jammed in some way. It has 8 perimeter screws into the ceiling of the slide room. There are 4 studs aiming downward that seem to hold the motor and what I assume are a couple of enclosed micro switches. I loosened the nuts from these 4 studs and jostled the mechanism around a bit. It must have unjammed something, because it now works. Anyone who can describe to me exactly how this all works? I would also like to know exactly what I need to do If I ever need to work on it. Are there any places that should be lubed? If so how do I get to them? Desperately looking for any help from those who have experience with this sort of slide room lock. How important is it to have this locked while travelling? I have HWH hydraulic slide and jack system. -- Thanks-- Mick2.3KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Radial Tire Valve Core Failures
I have the same issue at times. I will bet you have balancing beads in your tires and dust from them gets into the valve cores and holds them open. You need to give them a shot of new air before trying to check pressure to clear out the debris and let the cores to close. You should not rely on valve stem caps to hold pressure in your tires. There are valve stems with screens that are made to keep particles out of the valve cores that you can have installed to fix the problem. Or, you can just give them a shot of air before checking pressure to make them work properly. Good luck-- Mick983Views0likes0CommentsRe: Death Wobble Continues ....
We tow a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk with no issues. Granted, Jeep has resolved this issue at the factory and needs no wiring harness. My suggestions are like others have said. o Check front end alignment with caster set to upper limit of recommended spec. o Tow bar level with Hitch tighteners on all draw bar to receiver connections including drop receiver, if used. This will take a lot of slop out of the tow bar setup and make it much quietter also. o Make sure the Jeep battery is staying fully charged while towing. We have towed without a charge line, but installed one just in case. A self contained power pack/jump starter could be used if necessary. o If problem persists- Take to Jeep dealer to confirm towing wiring harness is working correctly. Good luck with your Cherokee. We love ours as a toad!1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: What caulk for the Winegard antenna cable?
I use RTV Silicone. Put some in around the coax and some in the boot to slip down on the coax and protruding riser. The RTV is more solid when cured and helps prevent the cable from pulling off the boot when antenna is rotated. Good luck.506Views0likes0CommentsRe: Which is best? Dish Tailgater Pro or Dish Playmaker Dual
hpdrver wrote: Looking to buy a used X2 but will use Dish Tv, Does the X2 require a power inserter to power the satellite or can it power the dish over the coax. Thanks It requires a proper compatible receiver model and powers the dish via the coax from the receiver. We've used the X2 for several years and as long as it has a clear look at the proper area of sky, it has worked fantastic for us. Good luck to you.2.9KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Squeaking From Motor
I have a 2007 W24 chassis with the 8.1L engine and had this problem. I checked idler and tensioner pulleys and they were OK. Tried several belts and noise returned in a short time. I tried NAPA, Dayco, Gates and they didn't last very long until noise returned. 5 years ago I installed a Goodyear Gatorback quiet belt 4061080 and it has been quiet. The belt is a cog-belt design with slots on the groove side that are perpendicular to the grooves. This belt seems stronger than others I have tried and streches less. It is just now making a light chirp at idle speed and usually in the morning or when damp. I will have to now check further now to see if I can determine cause. It does not sound like anything is about to self destruct and the noise goes away above idle. This belt is under quite a bit of stress since it runs water pump, alternator, AC compressor, and Hydraulic pump for steering and brakes. The easiest way I have found to handle belt removal and installation is to attach a ratchet strap to the tensioner arm and the other end of strap to suspension spring on passenger side. This way you can remove tension by yourself and easily work with the belt. Just make sure you follow belt routing. I can remove the belt completely from below with this method. Looks like I should also take a good look at the crankshaft pulley. Good luck with yours-- Mick378Views0likes0CommentsRe: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open
dougrainer wrote: 23hotrodr wrote: Timeking wrote: "The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb. There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean. As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable. --- Are you positive the air mixture is not adjustable? On all RV WHs I've seen, there is a mixture adjustment where the burner tube meets the gas valve. You adjust it by loosening a small screw and twisting it on the tube to open or close the slots in it to add or block air. Whenever I see a statement like this, I ask the question-----How long have you been working on RV Water heaters and/or RV's ? Because you are wrong. Doug PS, I have seen a LOT more RV WH'ers than you(thousands):B Thank you doug for putting me in my place. I have always appreciated the time you take and the expert advice you have given to help others over the years. I was simply trying to help by offering a small suggestion that might possibly have been overlooked. I in no way was trying to compete with you and your expertise. You are even more correct when you state you have seen 1,000s more WHs than I have since I am totally blind and have really never "seen" a single one. All I have done for many years is do virtually all the maintenance and repairs on my own MH and helped a few others find and fix problems with theirs. I have also had to repair things that the professional RV techs either screwed up or outright destroyed on my MH the few times I took it to them for repairs I thought were beyond my capabilities. I am extremely sorry for having tried to help with this issue, since I am obviously ignorant. I always look forward to hearing your advice to others and have learned from it numerous times. Best regards- Mick1.1KViews0likes0Comments
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