All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Travel Trailer StorageMy wife & I have a permanent park model in MBTP. When I retire, and spend a lot more time there....I'm going to offer a level and setup service for people that use the MBTP storage drag and drop. I'm pretty sure it is park policy, and not the guys who drive the trucks. They are just following orders, and they move a BUNCH of trailers in and out every day. Tippy Toe and Coast RV do a good job, but sometimes I cringe when I see one come in or out with those 2, due to tires looking about flat. Both have storage lots up on Hwy 90, and run up 22 to get there. Maybe the tires don't get hot enough in that short a distance, but it makes me wonder how many go BOOM!Re: Myrtle BeachWe like Myrtle Beach Travel Park so much, we sold our 5th wheel and bought a permanent park model. We're on the main drag.....and we'll wave when you go thru!Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?The easiest way to check the timing chain is to pull the fuel pump off of it. It's on the passenger side of the timing cover, right under the alternator. You can stick your finger in the hole, and see how slack the chain is. It will probably scare you when you find out how sloppy it is....lol. Your water pump may be leaking out the weep hole in the bottom of the shaft housing. If you change it yourself, be careful not to break the bolts that are to the far left and right of the water pump. They go all the way thru the timing cover, and into water jackets in the block. They are bad to rust up and break when you attempt to remove them. Work them back and forth as you remove them, and have patience. Buy an Edelbrock double row timing chain from Summit or Jegs to replace the crappy plastic covered gears on the factory chain. You won't hear a difference in noise. Be sure to drain the oil, and make a wire hook to reach up thru the drain hole in the oil pan, and dig all the remnants of the plastic gear out before refilling it with oil. Hope this helps, and good luck.Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class CI got hold of my buddy on the other website, and he ain't got a drivers side manifold like you need. I'll still look for one at Bristol next week if you want me to.Re: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class CI believe you'd better stick a fork in that one....it's done! I'm going to the Mopar show at Bristol Dragway next weekend, so I'll keep an eye out for a good drivers side manifold for you. I've got a buddy on a Mopar website that's a truck/van guy, and he may have one too. He sent me one for the passenger side of the Class C Dodge I used to own.Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? mbryanr wrote: Ok guys...hoping you may help me here. I have a '77 Dodge RV (360), which has run perfectly to this point. It has sat since the Winter, but I took care of the battery and the fuel system over the winter/spring. I haven't had much of chance to run it due to gas costs etc. We took it out today in preparation of a trip. Started up perfectly. Went to pick up some oil and a fuel filter...and it cuts out on me. Begins to sputter (similar to losing electrical power/fuel) and dies. I let it sit for ~5 minutes, and it starts right back up. Travel ~ 4 miles and it repeats the same. Won't start unless I let it sit for ~5-10 minutes, at which point it fires right up. I finally get it back home with it cutting out at an increasing rate. Thinking it could have been a bad fuel pump, I replaced it. Start it back up and it runs ~6 miles. Thinking "ok it is fixed!" - it hiccups and begins to cut out. If I don't push the accelerator it will idle perfectly, but once I hit the accelerometer...it cuts outs and stalls. Any ideas on troubleshooting? I'm thinking electrical ground...but I'm probably way off. I would appreciate any help, let me know if you need more info. Check every piece of rubber fuel line on the vehicle, and also drop the tank and see if the sock on the pickup line is clogged up. I had a 79 dodge with a 440 that did about the same thing. Every time there was a load on the engine, like pulling a hill...it sputtered and lurched and almost quit. I replaced the fuel filter located midways of the frame rail on the passenger side and thought that was the problem since it was so rusty on the outside. I cut it open and it was clean as could be. The motorhome had an electric helper pump out back next to the tank, so I pulled the fuel filter back off and used the pump to drain the gas into jugs. I then dropped the 30 gallon plastic tank, and found the main part of the problem as I was lowering the tank. The rubber hose going from the tank to the metal fuel line was rotten and letting air get sucked in. I pulled the pickup tube out of the tank and found the sock to be clogged as well. I cleaned out the tank to get any dirt out,and left the sock off. I added another inline filter before the helper pump, and used high grade hose to replace the rotten one. That fixed it, and I never had anymore problems. Good luck.Re: Your RigFinally got a pic of Big Red and the Sunnybrook when we stopped on the way to Myrtle Beach this past week. 2004 Dodge CTD 4WD 6 spd, and 2003 Sunnybrook fiver. B&W Companion sticks the 2 together. Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?Find a wrecked low mile 2wd Dodge pickup with a 5.7 Hemi, and swap that into it transmission and all. There are wiring harnesses available to swap those Hemis into older Mopar mucle cars, and any kind of street rod. A Class C is just a muscle truck with a house on its back....so the harnesses would work just as well in one of them. A 6BT cummins goes into an old Travco pretty easy, but a Dodge Class C, not so much! Good luck, and nice looking rig!Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? kavephish wrote: Sorry, guess I should have stated that it is a 2BBL carb. Based on pics from Google I have determined it is an older Holley carb, but not sure which model. I hope there is an ID tag on it...... OK..update...it's a Holley 2245. Bought a rebuild kit for $28.00. Found a few chunks of what appears to be rubber hose in the float needle/seat assembly. Carb is done, now onto replacing the bits of rubber fuel line I have and installing a second filter right before the carb. Next steps, driveshaft vibration, leak in the rear, leaking black water valve, valve cover gaskets, and fluid changes. Oh yeah, and brakes too....I think only the fronts work. Check the fuel line and see if there is an inline filter back near the transmission, on the passenger side. I had to redo all the rubber lines on our 79 Dodge class c back in the summer, and that's where the factory filter was on ours. You'll be way ahead if you drop the tank,clean it out and replace the rubber line that goes from the tank to the hard line. The******they sell for gas today is what eats the rubber lines up quicker, and corrodes the rest of the fuel system. Good luck.Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?UPDATE!! Got it fixed!! I ended up dropping the tank when the inline filter up by the transmission didn't pan out to be nasty. When I dropped the tank,I found the 5/16 rubber line that goes from the tank to the electric pump in the back....was smushed in one place and rotten in another place with a hole in it. It was sucking air big time! I took the pickup out of the tank, and the sock looked like it had been drug down a red clay Georgia road for a hundred miles. Wouldn't clean out no matter how much I sprayed it with cleaner....so I tossed it and cut a filter in line between the tank and the electric pump. I also changed every piece of rubber fuel line on the beast! I cleaned the tank out,put new gas in it...and no more stumble! Took it up the toughest hills I could find, and no problems at all. Thanks for all the ideas.
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