Tom_Dee
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Re: Headlights when showing up late!
ScottG wrote: dodge guy wrote: Tom&Dee wrote: Trlrboy wrote: Uhhhhhh... you forgot to mention the idling diesel. I am one with an idling diesel. You need to keep in mind that when I pull into a campground and back my trailer in the exhaust temperature does increase to about 450*. Without idling to cool the exhaust down (time depends on how warm everything is, how hard the engine is worked prior to arriving, etc) the turbo is spinning about 10,000 rpms and shutting it down hot causes the oil flow to stop while the turbo is still spinning and the heat will cause the oil to burn (coke) around the bearings and cause a premature turbo failure. If you are next to me when I pull in I will shut the engine down soon as I arrive PROVIDED you or anyone else puts $1000 in my hand because it will cost me more than that to replace the turbo. Now, I don't let it sit and idle for hours but I also watch the pyrometer and soon as I can I shut it down. By the time you check in the truck has idled enough to cool down the oil. and by the time you idle through the campground it is cool enough to shut down! no reason to idle it in the campground for up to 30 minutes. Tom, Your pyro may be bad if it shows it takes any more than 3~5 minutes to drop below 300 degrees - it just doesn't take any longer than that. There's no way the temps are that high after slowly driving around a CG and just maneuvering into a spot. Again, I shut it down AS SOON AS I CAN, but when I am driving in a campground then backing in my exhaust gas temperatures do climb to about 400*. I am going to let it idle until it cools to a minimum of 350*. Simple as that. and like I said, soon as I can I do shut it down. I don't let it idle for any more than necessary.604Views0likes0CommentsRe: Headlights when showing up late!
Trlrboy wrote: Uhhhhhh... you forgot to mention the idling diesel. I am one with an idling diesel. You need to keep in mind that when I pull into a campground and back my trailer in the exhaust temperature does increase to about 450*. Without idling to cool the exhaust down (time depends on how warm everything is, how hard the engine is worked prior to arriving, etc) the turbo is spinning about 10,000 rpms and shutting it down hot causes the oil flow to stop while the turbo is still spinning and the heat will cause the oil to burn (coke) around the bearings and cause a premature turbo failure. If you are next to me when I pull in I will shut the engine down soon as I arrive PROVIDED you or anyone else puts $1000 in my hand because it will cost me more than that to replace the turbo. Now, I don't let it sit and idle for hours but I also watch the pyrometer and soon as I can I shut it down.438Views0likes0CommentsRe: Double Towing with my rig (pics updated 5-13-2014)
bpounds wrote: Tom&Dee wrote: How can you get a citation for no log book in a non-commercial vehicle? You wouldn't. But in CA, all pickup trucks are registered commercial, with a few exceptions which would preclude pulling a fifthwheel. Further, if you are pulling doubles, you must have a commercial class A drivers license. Put that all together and in the eyes of CA you must be commercial when pulling doubles, whether RV or not. There are some other exceptions regarding agriculture, but way OT. Why would you need a commercial drivers license? California has a Non Commercial class A designed for RVs. Commercial laws are for commercial vehicles ONLY. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl648/dl648pt3.htm534Views0likes0CommentsRe: AC not cooling
ddschuman is correct. Any tech can put service taps on, but like he said, MOST of the time the problem is something else mainly electrical (not much else it can be). I would suggest that you have an A/C tech check the system and you may find all you need is a new t'stat or relay or something simple. I used to have my own HVAC business also.315Views0likes0CommentsRe: AC unit freezing up.
You need to check the obvious. When it freezes up look at the ice. White frosty looking ice can be from low air flow or a dirty filter/coil. I have also found that the A/C needed sealing up the supply side from the suction side (air leaks) inside the unit. Mine was like that. I used aluminum tape and sealed one side from the other. Hard clear ice is a result of a plugged drain. Chances of a system being low on refrigerant are really slim.564Views0likes0CommentsRe: The Definitive Torque vs. Horsepower post
RCMAN46 wrote: Bottom line to all of this. The engine that generates the most horsepower will do the most work and will get a load to the top of the hill first regardless of the torque rating of that engine. This all assumes that the engine has a transmission and rear end that will allow the engine to run at the rpm where it generates the most horsepower. This is true with all of the modern pickup trucks. I respectfully disagree with you. The torque is the turning force that propels a vehicle. This may help: HP vs TQ also this: Horse Power vs Torque331Views0likes0CommentsRe: The Definitive Torque vs. Horsepower post
Dennis M M wrote: When I was racing vintage sports cars the definition went as follows: horsepower = how fast you hit the wall torque = how hard you hit it! I have always heard it as Horespower is how fast you get to the wall; Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Either way it gets the point across. I do know that the higher the torque the better job is done maintaining speed going up hill.329Views0likes0Comments
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