lordnorth
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Re: Insulated FRP -- Where to buy?
pauldub wrote: If you don't want a smooth panel, here's a pebbled panel. Be sure to choose an adhesive that is compatible with whichever foam insulation you choose. I'd probably look for a spray adhesive to bond the foam to the panel, maybe from 3m. Yep, that brings me full circle. That is what I found as well as some foil-clad insulation. Now the question is how to make them stick together since not much sticks to frp and that which does eats foam. The foil should help out with that.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Insulated FRP -- Where to buy?
Gdetrailer... I appreciate that you are trying to help. But we are talking apples and oranges. You have an '81 and an '84 TRAILER. I'm talking about the door on a 2011 Class A Motorhome. They are nothing alike. Maybe its my fault for not being specific enough, but on the other hand maybe it has something to do with the fact that you think I'm an idiot who can't figure out how to fit a piece of plastic under the metal trim. Instead of answering my question, you assumed that I was asking an idiotic question and started telling me the way I *SHOULD* do it instead of just helping me out with what I asked. Maybe on older RV's they were made of wood. Maybe travel trailers have wood. My door has no wood. Took out the window and the latch to look at different places. NO WOOD. Smooth fiberglass outer surface, bonded to foam, bonded to pebble surface FRP, with a metal frame around the entire door. It looks something like this: https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/img/gen/640_601_lippert-rv-entry-door-optimized.jpg No, there is no structural door damage. The frame is intact. It hangs plumb, it opens and closes easily. ITS JUST THAT THE FREAKING PLASTIC CRACKED ON THE INSIDE. I 'appreciate' the suggestions on what I 'need' to do to replace or repair the door, but I know what I need to do, thank you. I'm just asking about the best way to go about it. Rant over. I do appreciate that people are trying to help, but if I ask how to get to Orlando, please don't tell me I really should go to Houston instead because its a much nicer place. Just help me get to Orlando, and if you can't help me get to Orlando then......1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Insulated FRP -- Where to buy?
Thanks guys. Appreciate the link to the filon... but I am looking for the interior of the door, not the exterior. As for reusing the existing insulation... that is already bonded to the FRP that is used for the interior of the door (that is cracked badly). You can't remove the FRP without removing the insulation, unless you tried to cut it off - which I can't imagine would go well. And you can't just put a new piece over it since it would be too thick to fit within the door framing. I'm looking at two options to bond it at this point... either a Contact Cement or an FRP approved adhesive like DAP's Dynagrip Heavy Duty Max (has to be the MAX because the regular heavy duty isn't compatible with FRP...) I will update as to my progress.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsInsulated FRP -- Where to buy?
Does anyone know where you can purchase Insulated FRP Panels to replace the interior of entrance doors? The interior of my door panel has multiple cracks and needs to be replaced. I was hoping that it was simply an FRP panel layered over insulation, but it looks like the insulation and the panel are bonded together as one. Thanks for the help! -Chris4.8KViews0likes12CommentsRe: "Tuner" for a V-10
Jim102 wrote: Buying a new Jayco Precept 29v, has a V-10, now, does anyone have good or bad things to say about a tuner for it? And who you like... This is all new to me. Thanks, Jim ABSOLUTELY, DEFINITELY, WITHOUT QUESTION GO WITH THE TUNER! Most of the people on here who are against it have never tried one. I use the SCT with the tuning by 5star on a 2011 V10. WOULD NEVER GO BACK. As someone else pointed out... These things were set up absolutely STUPID when it came to cruise control. You would be cruising along at 55mph and would come to a *very* slight rise... The **** thing would downshift to like 2nd gear and rev up to the very top of the tach. Sounded like things just HAD to start coming apart under the hood. It wouldn't do that when driving by the pedal.. only when driving with cruise. I was to the point I would take off the cruise every time I came up on a hill, then back on... then off... then on... then off... After the tune, it would allow the RV to drop 4 or 5 mph before having to downshift, then it would only bump down 1 gear. HIGHLY recommend. Probably THE best purchase I have made for the RV. -Chris568Views0likes0CommentsRe: Freshwater Tank Replacement - Coachman Mirada (Solved)
Tal/IL wrote: I am anxiously awaiting a report on this project. I've been looking at mine, thinking it looks like it will just slide out, also. If it does, I'm going to pull it out and move the overflow connection from the side to the top of the tank. Please report how the project goes! Hey! Might be able to save you some effort... I did some more research and found that with my polyethylene tank I would have to 'spin weld' the new fitting on. BUT! Looks like there is no need to move it. I'm just going to alter my vent a little bit and install a siphon break... As long as the top of the larger tube is higher than the top of the tank, it will fill, spill over into the larger pipe, but the larger pipe won't let it siphon down. And because the 1/2 tubing runs up above the top of the tank, it won't flow until the tank is full, but at the same time, the water can't run UPHILL to drain. Hopefully this all makes sense. Certainly a lot easier to do than to move the ports. Let me know if you need more info! -Chris602Views0likes0CommentsRe: Heat Wrap Water Pump?
No shore power. Pair of 6v golf cart batteries and there is always the generator! Have to wrap the lines since they are exposed. Decided to skip the pump and just keep hearing the bay with the space heater. That will take care of the pump AND the grey and black tanks, plus the gate valves. It's been a three year process. Each year we get a little closer!365Views0likes0CommentsRe: Heat Wrap Water Pump?
OldGuy wrote: DO NOT OVER LAP THE TAPE. it will over heat and burn you out of house and home JaxDad wrote: Heat tape is a poor choice for poly and PEX tubing, it doesn’t conduct heat the way copper does. Yes, that was true about the OLD heat tape. Check out the NEW stuff. https://www.oemheaters.com/category/1124/standard-speedtrace-cable Ideal for freeze protection and thawing: metal or plastic pipes and valves Easy to install – pre-assembled with power cord and plug Safe to overlap and insulate Self-regulated: automatically adjusts heat output based on surface and ambient temperature No temperature controller required to prevent overheating360Views0likes0CommentsHeat Wrap Water Pump?
I am determined that I am going to use my RV to go skiing. It's great when it works... Nothing like coming back for lunch, taking off your boots and coats and ski pants, having a nice relaxing lunch. Not to mention waking up and not having to drive to the mountain. But my Coachman Mirada was not really designed as a 4 season RV and have been having trouble with freeze-ups. I am buying tank heating pads for the freshwater tank, and heat cable to run from my tank to the pump (this is the area that has been freezing first for me...) I am also going to wrap my waste tank drain lines in heating wrap as well. Currently I use a small 200 watt space heater in my wet bay to keep the pump from freezing up, but I would like to replace it with a better system, and since I am getting a lot of heat wrap anyway.... Has anyone tried heat wrapping your water pump? I was thinking maybe I could use something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water/Therma-Heat/277-000162.html Thoughts? Thanks for the help! -Chris1.3KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Freshwater Tank Replacement - Coachman Mirada (Solved)
Tal/IL wrote: I am anxiously awaiting a report on this project. I've been looking at mine, thinking it looks like it will just slide out, also. If it does, I'm going to pull it out and move the overflow connection from the side to the top of the tank. Please report how the project goes! Actually, it was a pretty easy job. I was trying to find a buddy to help me, but he was tied up so I gave it a shot. The hardest part was getting the PEX disconnected from the ports. I ended up having to cut them off. They might be too short now to get back on, but I have a PEX crimping tool, so its not too big a deal to replace. I had SERIOUSLY overfilled it once... Had an ice plug in the vent line... puffed up so much it pushed up the floor in the bedroom. But I don't think it cracked it. Seems to still take pressure. Now I need to look at the lines a little more closely to make sure they are all still good. Might be a good point about moving the vent. Since I have it out, maybe I will do the same with mine. I put a valve in my vent line so that I could fill it with the valve open to vent, close it once it was full, then once the level came down below the vent I could open it back up again. Obviously not a great system if I forgot to open it or close it at the right time. So maybe the top vent would be a good idea. I say give it a shot. It really wasn't difficult at all. -Chris601Views0likes0Comments
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