Impulse24
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Re: extended warranties
The only winners are the Company and the Finance guy who gets a commission for selling the policy. If you decline the sales guy wants you to still sign stating you refuse the policy, so they still get a commission. When I last refused to sign the Sales guy got angry so I walked. Also on American Greed recently it was stated that policies are frequently changed in order to decline a claim. As others have said they are not woth the paper they are printed on. Save the premium and pay for the repairs yourself...415Views0likes0CommentsRe: Realilistic mileage with a fifthwheel.
1996 GMC K3500 (1 ton Dually crew) With Vortec 454 and 4.10 rear end. Magnaflow exhaust and Aero flow wing. No other mods. 2017 32 ft Crusader Lite Weight (9k lbs) 5th wheel. Approx GVW 14 k lbs +/- a few. Just completed a round trip from LA to St Petersburg Florida, total 5250 miles. Drove I 10 going I 20 return. Speed 55 - 60 mph, Average MPG 10.1. Average fuel cost per gal $2-03,(hand calculations) Previously we had a 36 ft diesel MH with a Cummins 5.9 and averaged 9.7 mpg so out of interest I noted average Diesel costs were running around $2-40.per gal It was also noted that we were passed multiple times by the same vehicles ? Which raised the question of were they stopping more frequently for fuel or taking a lot of breaks due to stress ? And even though the GMC has a 33 gal tank we stopped every 250 miles for a break and fuel. So taking into account Maintance costs in comparison to a Diesel, and a gas engine requires more frequent servicing schedules, for me ecconomy is on the side of the 454. And judging by all the other posts Gas verses Diesel is not far off being equal in MPG results !! Although I admit more torque helps going up hill. But I am surprized this topic has gone so far? Because when MPG has been brought up previously the standard answers are. I have better things to do than plod a long and if you have to worry about trivial things like fuel costs and mpg then you can't afford to RV. Ah well I guess a Leopard can change its spots !!350Views0likes0CommentsRe: Chucking?
Garyl53 wrote: Hi, My opinion is that road imperfections and the effect in the vehicle/trailer certainly impact the ride quality. However, my opinion is that when an OP inquired about “chucking” it is because the the ride qualirlty is unacceptable even on extreamely smooth roads. Things like inadequate pin weight, hitch pin slop, and other truck/trailer suspension issues must be present. I have not been able to resolve or even reduce the “chucking” I experience despite ‘Mor/Ryde RPB, Andersen Hitch, truck air bags, complete trailer axle alignment including caster, camber, adding new shocks to truck/trailer, even tried a BD-3 air hitch, etc. I have about a 23-25% pin weight when vacationing. I have tried increasing pin weight (sand bags in front storage area, decreasing pin weight (sand bags in rear kitchen area) to no avail. It could be that I am concluding that the uncomfortable back/forth motion on us passengers in the front seats is actually the trailer pushing rapidly up/down on the rear of the truck caused by some resonance condition. It can actually be worse on smooth roads than rougher roads which has lead me to this conclusion. The remaining thing to try is to have someone else with a similar vehicle try towing my trailer and to also tow a different trailer about the same GVwR to try to see if there a a difference. Interesting correction attempts, but the softer you make the ride the more bounce you will create. On another note if your pin is too small for the hitch you will create unwanted movement, and the air bags only help with weight and reduce sagging springs. have you also check your hitch alignment to your axel, if the hitch is in the wrong place you can do many things without correcting the problem. Love to read how it turns out for you. PS, Anyone used this hitch ?? As far as I can see it is the only one that you can easily install and swap to another trailer without major mods ! http://www.shockerhitch.com/5th_Wheel.php351Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dually tow vehicle tire pressure
So the newer GM duallies have LT235/80R17E tires, which at 65 psi are rated to 2680 each. The front GAWR appears to be 5600 pounds. So at 65 pounds inflation the tires are unrated for the max axle rating. So are you sure it says 65 pounds all the way around. BTW at 35 pounds dual the tire is rated at 1570 each or a total of 6280, which is fine for casual everyday used include runs to box stores giving well over a ton of capacity in the bed. Chris Chris, I just noticed your post and you deserve a response, So here it is from the horses mouth as they say.. Tire Size: LT235/80R17 Tire uses LT-Metric tire size standard, with tread width of 235 mm or 9.25", aspect ratio of 80%, sidewall height of 188 mm or 7.4", and rim diameter of 17" or 431.8 mm. Tire Load Index: 120 Tire has a load index of 120, with maximum load carrying capacity of 3086 pounds or 1400 kilograms per each tire. Tire Speed Rating: R Tire has a speed rating of R that allows for maximum service speed of 106 miles or 170 kilometers per hour. Maximum Tire Pressure: 80 psi / 5.52 bar Tire has a maximum tire inflation pressure of 80 psi or 5.52 bar per tire as set by tire manufacturer. Always use the correct tire inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, or as stamped on the tire sidewall. Hope this helps..1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Dually tow vehicle tire pressure
Respectively you need to educate your self! Look at the weight/inflation chart for 17" stock DUALLY rear tires. 35psi is MORE than needed to PROPERLY inflate the 4 rear tires If your that sure post a link !!! Its a pity that RV's aren't required to go over the scales and have inspections the same as Trucks, there again if they did there would be a lot less RV's on the road. In the mean time Suit yourself, I strongly suggest you have a meat wagon follow you, Low tire pressure causes heat which causes blow outs in the same way over inflation does. when you see your tires wearing on the side, don't check the Alignment because it will be your tire pressures being too low causing excessive wear. Tires that are too low on pressure cause the center of the tire to rise leaving contact with the road which means the edge/side of the tire is the only contact you have with the road. Which creates a longer braking distance and control problems. You obviously have never been told until now brakes don't stop the vehicle they only slow the wheel rotation, The friction between the road surface and the tire tread is what stop the vehicle. And although it means nothing to quite a lot of people having correctly inflated tires gives better mpg. As to Education !! Yer right I guess I'll burn my CDL and teaching certificate with the Driving Instructor Certification. Edit : - I'm done with this topic....1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Dually tow vehicle tire pressure
35 PSI! I don't even drop that low when I'm off Roading. The vehicle manufacturers and the tire companies spend hours working out tire pressures. Having a pressure lower than that recommended pressure could lead to shortened tire life and is a potential safety hazard. The air in the tire supports the vehicle, so less air causes the tire to increase in heat and work harder than it is supposed too. The sidewall markings on the tire for inflation are tire industry standards based on size and usage. In other words they are regulations from the Government for Maximum inflation and load, they are not vehicle specific. Plus if you read the sticker on the door with the tire pressures you will note it states, something like this vehicle conforms to all Applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Standards at the time of Manufacture. Hence this is a Government Sticker (DoT) and should be adhered to. Also a Tire Guy at Discount may look as a know nothing, but they train and get certified to do the Job. I will keep running 65 psi all round loaded or empty, as recommended by Discount Tire and the DoT Stick not forgetting the tire manufacturers side wall pressure!!1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: RV Coverage for disasters??
Scott Blanc wrote: Most Extended Warranties or Service Contracts would cover the cost of repairing the broken pipe, but not the consequential damages caused by the break. The Good Sam ESP available at the Camping World RV dealerships has an optional Consequential Damage coverage that would include coverage for the water damage. This product is normally offered only when you are buying an RV, but in most states, it can be sold to a customer who did not purchase the RV from Camping World. Worth checking out at your local Camping World! I hate to say this but this isn't exactly true ! Even if an extended warrantee was trustworthy, there are clauses written in that only benefit the policy seller not the holder. As to Consequential Damage, the Good Sam ESP you mention only covers 5 days for repairs, so if, IE Camping World were selected to do the work, anytime over the 5 days would be at the owners expense. It should also be noted that ESP only pays $100 per day and a max of $60 for food, and although better than nothing it again is only for a max of 5 days, And if the RV is not livable after that time, means again the owner is out of pocket. Where as my home owners insurance far exceeds ESP coverage, and as a lot of RV's are full-timers there should be a policy inline with fixed property home Owner Insurance. Besides everyone knows 99.9% of extended warrantee's aren't worth the paper they're printed on. And the only reason the Finance Manager at a Dealership tries to sell them is because he get commission. Whether you buy one or not he still gets a commission because they demand a signature or acceptance or refusal.. Also the scenario I originally quoted was also a question I ask Good Sam, who in turn also stated a water problem would not be covered including the results of the damage. However if the RV was in a flood it would be covered....0Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dually tow vehicle tire pressure
What some people don't understand is there are two different standards at play with tire pressures. 1. The Sticker in the door is a DOT standard of maximum pressure for the ORIGINAL TIREs that came with the vehicle, which in turn were used in accordance with the design and manufacture of the vehicle and its specifications. 2. The max pressure on the tire is the max the amount of air the tire was designed to safely be used at. That pressure is also calculated to allow for expansion when the tire gets hot. Therefore in realty if you are using original tires then the DoT sticker should be your Maximum Pressure. And if you are buying after Market the maximum on the tire should be used. Regardless of weight in no way should those pressures be exceeded. My Dually states 65 all round on the sticker, and that is the pressure Discount Tires also recommends, My 5th wheel tires are also 65 psi max and I run on 65 psi all round and have no problems.1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRV Coverage for disasters??
While in a N California RV Park, our neighbor had a water pipe break, which got us to check our policy to see if this was covered by the Insurance. It turns out Fire of any kind would be covered BUT floods and water damage from an internal problem was not ! Further research an calls to other companies also say the same thing. So here is a general question? Is there an RV insurance you can get like a home warrantee policy to cover the RV and everything in and on it should you be out and about and need a repair ? Thanks2.6KViews0likes10Comments
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