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Re: Black tank leak on seasonally parked 5'er
Keily wrote: I don't know if this will help you or not, but it may help. I have helped an RV tech replace 2 black water tanks on 2 2012 Palamino 5th wheel trailers ,in the same campground, in the same season. What we discovered there was a hairline crack at the very top of the tank corner. It would only leak when the tank would get full and as long as the owner dumped every few days there was no problem. Thanks, this is exactly what's happening with my tank but mine starts leaking as soon as it holds four or five flushes. The dripping just gets stronger the more full the tank gets, but as soon as I open the valve to dump, it slows down dramatically. I'll try sanding the area down and applying the JB WaterWeld epoxy putty to see if that works.507Views0likes0CommentsBlack tank leak on seasonally parked 5'er
After buying our 2012 Keystone Cougar 26SAB used in 2014 for a great price, we traveled around for two seasons before this year deciding to park it for the season at a semi-local campground. We struck gold and made all sorts of friends, so we're staying, probably for a few years. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a slow drip underneath the RV and when I got down there, could tell the water was blue from my black tank chemicals ... bad news. I tried sealing it up with RV aluminum roof tape but wasn't really surprised when it didn't hold. It's leaking from a barely perceptible crack around the center end drain hole and there's also a very slow leak from the valve. The valve is relatively new, replaced by the dealer in the spring of 2016 when the galley grey was replaced under extended warranty. My first thought was that they screwed up the valve replacement and cracked the tank. Sadly, the warranty has expired and even if it was active, I don't want to haul it out of the campground after we just got everything set up the way we want it this season. So my options are try to seal the leak in some way or find a mobile repair guy to install a new black tank and valve on site. There are a couple of certified RV repairers in Vermont that I can call but I first thought I'd check with everyone here to see if there's a way I can DIY it to stop the leak. If pictures are necessary, I can do that next weekend when we're back down there to begin winterizing it, but if I can't repair the leak, my antifreeze is just going to run out and the tank will be dead on arrival next spring anyway.3.9KViews0likes15CommentsRe: Yet another tire thread - Cougar X-Lite 26SAB
Thanks everyone for the input on new tires for my Cougar X-Lite. After confirming with my RV dealer that my wheels could handle LRE tires, I just ordered a set of four 10 ply Maxxis 8008's from Amazon for $146 per tire with free shipping. Pretty happy about that deal and appreciate everyone's input and assistance.481Views0likes0CommentsRe: Yet another tire thread - Cougar X-Lite 26SAB
Whoa, Maxxis tires are expensive. I know I've read that a few times in this forum, and I never have an issue with paying extra for good quality, but I've seen a few posts from people who have seen increasing problem reports about them which makes me question if they are really worth the premium price? I use Amazon to price check, whether I buy there or not. Comparing 10 ply versions of all three tires available, the Maxxis M8008 is $146, Gladiator steel belt is $110, and Trailer King is $77. So essentially a $35 difference between the three. The squarer profile of the Gladiator is appealing to me as it seems more stable and maybe wears more evenly, but not sure if that's really what happens.342Views0likes0CommentsRe: Yet another tire thread - Cougar X-Lite 26SAB
JIMNLIN wrote: Neither of those tires you mention come in a LT but rather a P tire (passenger). Both of those tires tread isn't a rib type and neither has the capacity for your trailers 4400 lb axles. Thanks very much for explaining all of that. I know it's probably considered common knowledge for most everyone on this forum, but I've never been a vehicle expert and sometimes all of the terminology is intimidating. I thought it was weird that those tires had that low of a capacity and now it makes sense. Maybe my problem is that I'm looking to buy them from Tirerack instead of going to a local dealer. If I end up with Maxxis D or E STs (which is how I'm leaning based on the responses so far), I'll start looking at prices on other sites / local stores.342Views0likes0CommentsRe: Yet another tire thread - Cougar X-Lite 26SAB
bpounds wrote: You've been scared by all the ST trash talk around here. Your wheels are probably the same as on my Cougar, and they are rated for 80psi. My choice was to go with Maxxis and upgrade to the E rating, for even more excess capacity rating. My GVWR is 10,050, so we're in the same ball park. What I've been scared by is all the reports of ST tires failing prematurely due to poor craftsmanship. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy for the info as after two years, I'm still very new to all of this. Max PSI on my 5'ers label is 65, so I'm guessing that means my wheels are only rated for that ... unless that info is shown elsewhere. I was hoping to upgrade my tires so that I can travel interstates at 70-75 MPH instead of keeping it under 65 as I do, but if the wheels can't handle the additional 15 PSI of E rated tires, am I screwed?342Views0likes0CommentsRe: Yet another tire thread - Cougar X-Lite 26SAB
2oldman wrote: Your local RV dealer mounts tires that you bring in? Some tire shops will not install LTs on a trailer. I told him I'd be buying the tires on Tirerack and he said "No problem". I haven't asked him yet about LTs instead of STs however.64Views0likes0CommentsYet another tire thread - Cougar X-Lite 26SAB
I know, I know ... not another tire question thread. Sorry, but there's so much out there that I get lost (and disheartened) before I can read it all. Simple question really. GVWR of my 5'er is 9990, GAWR is 4400 for each axle, and current tires (ST225/75R15D on 15x6 rims) are shot. Have an appointment with my local dealer (original owner bought it there in 2012, sold it to us in 2014) a month from now for tire replacement / brake inspection / bearing pack / state inspection (which it failed last fall because of the tires). We're only part timers averaging less than 2,500 miles / season but I don't want to replace old Chinese bombs with new ones. I want to know if moving up to E rated ST tires is OK if I go with the better brands (Maxxis) or if I should just move up to LT's instead. I wanted to buy them from Tirerack.com but the only STs they have are the usual Marathon / Towmax garbage which is why I'm considering going the LT route. They have a lot better options for 6" rims like the BFG Long Trail T/A Tour and the Firestone Destination A/T. Both of those have ribs rather than belts, which I've learned is desired for trailer service (see, I did read some of the other forum threads). :) My question is that both of those LTs have a Load Index of 1874# per tire or 3744 / axle (700# less than my GAWR). I know hitch weight gets factored into the calculation, but I've no idea what mine is and no way to figure it out before I order the tires. So am I good with either of those LTs so I can ditch the ST tires? I'll spend some more time reading the various threads, but all advice is welcome. Thanks in advance!5.2KViews0likes32CommentsRe: How Often to Pack Wheel Bearings
Hannibal wrote: I think your assumption is good to go. Give the tires a good visual check including the date code. We're loading up for our trip this morning. Y'all have a save and fun trip! Thanks, you have a great trip as well! Tires are visually good, date code already checked last year and I know from the previous owner that they've got less than 20K on them between his use and ours. They're cheap Chinese original equipment, but I'm planning to let the RV sit on them for another winter and then get new upgraded tires put on before next season starts.457Views0likes0Comments
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