All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Revived Trailer Tire Thread (formerly on the 5th Wheel ForumST225/75R/15D should be a D rated tire. What I have now is LT225/75R/16E and is a E rated tire. I saw the link you had and it did have it listed a C. I think it's wrong. If not "I'm totally confused"Re: Revived Trailer Tire Thread (formerly on the 5th Wheel Forum Francesca Knowles wrote: Cox89XJ wrote: I’m the one that post the picture of the failed Chinese tire on page 21 of this thread. It was a Mission ST225/75R/15D rated radial tire. If cruising at 65 to 67mph is abusing, yes it was abused. It definitely was not overloaded or run low of air. When I went to a B F Goodrich Commercial TA in size LT225/75R16E rated tire, I have not had any more tire problems. Still cruising between 65 and 67mph. Out of the five tires I had to fail, they all looked like the one in the picture, but one. It’s the one that came apart just North of Birmingham. No doubt, it started the same way with tread separation. The ST’s are like a heavy duty inner tube compared to a LT tire. Mine were anyway. We usually take at least two pretty long trips every year. (400 miles one way or more) Like I’ve said on short trips the tires don’t have time to build up a lot of heat so in my Opinion, that is why some people get by with the ST’s. Short trips or not very heavy campers. Those are Load Range C six ply tires... is it possible they were undersized to begin with for the 2003 5th wheel they came on? What part of ST225/75R/15D do you not understand. They were "D" rated. The camper they were on when I had the tire failures was a Keystone Lerado 29BH. It weighted 8,040 Ibs. empty when on the way home after buying new. After loaded and ready to go it weighted 9300. My son works at a feed mill so weighing my rigs has never been a problem. After 5 tire failures, I knew I had to do something else. So this is what I did and I have had no more tire problems. Stay away from ST’s.Re: Revived Trailer Tire Thread (formerly on the 5th Wheel ForumI’m the one that post the picture of the failed Chinese tire on page 21 of this thread. It was a Mission ST225/75R/15D rated radial tire. If cruising at 65 to 67mph is abusing, yes it was abused. It definitely was not overloaded or run low of air. When I went to a B F Goodrich Commercial TA in size LT225/75R16E rated tire, I have not had any more tire problems. Still cruising between 65 and 67mph. Out of the five tires I had to fail, they all looked like the one in the picture, but one. It’s the one that came apart just North of Birmingham. No doubt, it started the same way with tread separation. The ST’s are like a heavy duty inner tube compared to a LT tire. Mine were anyway. We usually take at least two pretty long trips every year. (400 miles one way or more) Like I’ve said on short trips the tires don’t have time to build up a lot of heat so in my Opinion, that is why some people get by with the ST’s. Short trips or not very heavy campers.Re: Revived Trailer Tire Thread (formerly on the 5th Wheel ForumThis is a picture of one of my failed chinese tires. Re: Revived Trailer Tire Thread (formerly on the 5th Wheel ForumWhen using the China made ST225/75R15D rated tires on my fifth wheel, I had 5 tire failures in 3 years. That’s how I found this forum. We got to the point that we dreaded going on long trips afraid of tire failure. It’s not fun changing a tire on the side of an interstate. With knowledge I gained from this forum along with my common sense I went with a B F Goodrich Commercial TA size LT225/75R16E. Since I had to change wheels I went with aluminum wheels also. Makes a rig look good. That has been almost 6 years ago and I’ve had no more tire problems. I cruise around 67mph. My son works at a feed mill, so weighing my rig has never been a problem. My current rig weights about 10,500 loaded and ready to go. People with lighter rigs and people who make short trips. (50 miles one way) might get by with ST’s. The ST’s that I took off my camper were put on my utility trailer. I’ve never had a problem with them in the almost 6 years either, but the trailer never sees over 5,000 pounds. With my experience, I’ll put LT’s on my camper next time also. If I put new tires on my utility trailer, I’ll put P rated tires. I just don’t trust ST’s after having 5 fail. Edit: Had to adjust the years, they go by fast. Bought a Laredo in Aug. of 03, Put new wheels and tires on in Aug. of 06, traded it for a Cougar in Aug. of 07 taking the aluminum wheels and LT tires with the Cougar.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. tvsteve wrote: MrWizard wrote: sounds like the engine speed governor is sticky try unbolting the gas tank, remove it, and do a thorough lube and clean of the governor lever at the top of the engine also there is a very fine lite weight long spring connected parallel to the governor linkage to the carb throttle, that will cause "hunting" (speed variation) if the springs breaks Inspected and lubed the linkage. It's free and not binding. Still, the problem persists. It's more of a slight misfire than a surging. Steve You might try disconnecting the low oil shutdown circuit. Mine failed.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. professor95 wrote: Cox89XJ wrote: My Kenowa generator won’t put out any voltage. The last time I found a loose terminal, this time the exciter capacitor looks like it has blown out. Swelled up and leaking stuff out. It is a 24uf and 350 volt. Maybe I need to replace it with one with a metal case instead of plastic? I sure hope that fixes it. When I removed the gen cover I also noticed a little metal dust around the roller bearing. I believe I will replace that too while I have to torn down. Less than 100 hours and my hours of repair keep adding up???? The capacitor is most likely your overall voltage regulator. Chinese generators typically offered capacitor regulation or an AVR. Of the two the AVR offered a more consistent regulation and lacked the "avalanche" midway in the waveform of capacitor regulation. Unlike AVR failure sending output voltage sky high, failure of the capacitor simply killed output. Certainly a lot safer in the event of failure. Capacitors do "age" and as they do the dielectric breaks down and the plates begin to puncture. Internal heat makes the case swell and if filled with oil it will begin leaking. A metal capacitor will do the same thing. Once it begins to swell, it needs replacement. Just source a good quality non-polarized capacitor. The cost should be under $10 - not the $30+ dollars the genny manufacturer will quote you. Again - non-polarized, do not replace with a polarized electrolytic capacitor. Metal dust around the roller bearings are not a good sign. The bearings were designed to be lifetime lubricated. Not sure what they consider as a lifetime but they can wear out, especially when operated in dusty or salt air environments. Replacing a bearing is not always easy. In most situations it must be destroyed to remove and the new bearing will require a special driver or press to install so as to not ruin it. Putting a few drops of oil on the bearing is not going to hurt. In fact, it might extend the life of your generator. ALL of these gennys need routine cleaning. I remove the louvered end cap and blow out dirt and dust with compressed air. The capacitor fixed it. ThanksRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Professor 95 Thanks so much for the info on the capacitor and the bearing. You are a great asset to this forum.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.My Kenowa generator won’t put out any voltage. The last time I found a loose terminal, this time the exciter capacitor looks like it has blown out. Swelled up and leaking stuff out. It is a 24uf and 350 volt. Maybe I need to replace it with one with a metal case instead of plastic? I sure hope that fixes it. When I removed the gen cover I also noticed a little metal dust around the roller bearing. I believe I will replace that too while I have to torn down. Less than 100 hours and my hours of repair keep adding up????Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Just got back from a few days boondocking. I noticed the last day of our trip, when I started the generator, it would miss a little then smooth out. When I got home I checked the spark plug and it was okay, then cleaned the air filter and the engine would still do the same thing. So this morning I reset the valves. Runs good now. I could not find the setting for my Kenowa 4500E model so I set the valves to the specifications that Champion uses. .006 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust. The gen only has somewhere in the vicinity of 75 hours on it, but it definitely needed the valves adjusted. The intake was too loose and the exhaust was too tight. This thread needed a bump anyway.
GroupsFifth Wheel Group Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts