rowekmr
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Re: Totaled vehicles...sometimes surprising.
I have been in the rebuilding business (part time) for a short while so have some experience with these salvage titles. My first project was a 07 F350 King Ranch with 67k one owner from TX. It was listed as recovered steal (salvage title) and as a non runner. The interior was removed but I believe most people didn't like the non running designation so bid less. I zoomed in pictures and saw that the ignition lock was stripped and figured the yard hands couldn't start it with key and won it at auction. I searched online for parts and cost was looking at 4k from different places so I decided to buy another accident wrecked F350 KR for about 5K and towed them both to Ford (before I had built shop relationships) and had them swap out interior and steering wheel column and parted out the rest of the wrecked F350 (sold drivetrain for 3K). I kept that truck a year waiting on the state snafus in converting the title and sold it to a roofing business as their estimator truck for 15K. A year later they called seeing if I had another one but that one was a rare find. In regards to insurance formulas that applies to the majority but for some it can be more involve more variables than repair values/actual values. One can walk at any insurance auction lot and see cars with little or no damage with salvage or even worst parts only title (can't be driven/converted in most states) and see a crumpled up burnt frame with a clean title. I bought a minor frontal hit 2010 Navigator non running that I gambled on it being non running because the inertia fuel pump switch wasn't reset. I even called the yard and asked them do they reset the switch and they said yes but I didn't go check it out myself at the time (not smart) just gambled because the grille only had been damaged. When I picked it up and got it home I recharged battery (most are low or dead from the sitting) and reset switch and it started. I got it repaired and converted title and sold it to law enforcement officer who loved it. Every buyer is told the history and the process and given copies of the receipts (they assume remaining warranty on repairs). Legal definition of flood damage in many states is water touching bottom of car which means some flood damage cars are not damaged. I used to buy them cheap for parts donor cars for accident repair projects and some listed as non running drove right off my trailer with no issues. I think some insurance companies do not want them started so most are listed as non runnning but lately I see that Copart will sell them listed as runners. Albeit most of them on lots have water in cabin and many electronics problems. But someone willing to do due diligence could get a vehicle at substantial savings. In IL you have to convert salvage title to rebuilt (some states you don't) to plate and insure them. The vehicle has to be repaired, DOT inspected then depending on year you will need a 2nd state inspection (for stolen parts) then a licensed rebuilder can apply to the state for a rebuilt title.I have insured more than a few with full comprehensive with Allstate so I haven't encountered issues in that regards either. In surrounding states a private owner can complete the title conversion process without the 1 (up to 3) month wait for title we have here. I used to sell good projects as I got them for DIY'ers to complete after I got a lot of requests for projects vs finished and the state was backlogged with title conversions. You can finance rebuilt titles with many credit unions and some banks but it is correct most places won't. My municipal credit union years back would finance salvage title vehicles I was told. Just recently I got a 2010 Ford Taurus SHO with salvage title that had a dented fender and flat tire. I always wanted an ecoboost car so I took the chance that there was undercarriage damage since the front tire was flat. Once I got it to shop found out there was a nail in the tire and bought a replacement fender and had it painted and scratch removed from bumper cover and drove it for a quick while before selling it to a couple who converted the title themselves in border state. How can an insurance company salvage a title over $75 fender even if they included the $500 in new tires I got because it was AWD for a clean loaded vehicle? The buyer like many keeps contact with me because they love the savings they got on car (paid 5k) and so far no other issues. I bought a 2nd ecoboost this time a MKS with grille cracked, broken headlight tab prolly a deer hit because there was some deer hair stuck in the cracks. They probably salvaged it because used bumper covers were $1200 with sensors for this unique vehicle and adaptive headlights are $1200. My body guy repaired cover and I bought used headlight for $650 from EBay and grille for $65 and completed vehicle. The owner of the shop bought it from me because he said he wanted the SHO (after it was spoken for) and only issue he has had since is PCV valve which is maintenance item (known issues for ecoboosts). I used to do a lot of hail damage cars. Many states salvage them because of the value formula but a few keep clean title it is just in the insurance company. I bought a bunch from CO and TX which kept titles clean with a partner who was a body combo professional and we were going to fix the damage ourselves and sell them. When we got our first 2 he started complaining about all the work he was going to have to do so I figured lets just sell it as is because it just had cosmetic dimples. We sold many that way. Some with moderate damage that was noticeable under direct sunlight and a few you couldn't see the damage at all. Figured many of ours came from Ford lots (paperwork in glove box) so adjuster must have totalled out more generously after a few well publicized hail storms. I sold many to parents buying them for their kids who they knew were going to dent it up anyway lol For a short while I bought non running 6.4l's for a heavy diesel tech who would rebuild them and sell them. They were totaled because of the engine issues from insurance claims and some as clean title repo's because owners stopped paying on the loan. Recovered steals if the claim was paid are salvaged title. So if vehicle wasn't recovered after the 2 weeks or so the insurance company deems its a total they pay the claim and when the vehicle is recovered whether there is damage or not they salvage the clean title and sell it at auction. My FIL is driving a prior salvage (rebuilt) Fusion hybrid that was loaded and recovered steal with only damage is scratch on front bumper. He also bought a hail damage almost new pristine travel trailer that we will convert title soon. I got many many more examples but I would summarize that the problems many of you highlight rest not with insurance company nor the auction houses but the shops that did the work or the unscrupulous reseller who didn't disclose prior history and/or used bad shops. I never called prior owners or even prior dealerships. My shops did their own diagnosing and repaired accordingly. I used high quality independent shops but many times select dealership I had accounts and of all the vehicles sold haven't had any issues. Most buyers were just happy to get a substantial savings on a car and a few who were hesitant were calling me soon afterwards to look for another one for family member or friend. The ones I bought were select so I didn't always have a stream of vehicles. I looked for that needle in a haystack deal that I could pass on to the buyer. If anyone has questions you can message or email me.504Views0likes0CommentsRe: best ever fuel mileage 2009 6.4L
4.5 mpg!?!?! Those are loaded semi truck numbers. I very briefly had a F-450 stake bed and was disappointed with its performance. It LOVED fueling stations too. From what I recall going at 65 mph on flat land I could get low teens. Only trailer experience was towing a mini van on auto transport trailer and it was barely in the 2 digits. Towing the same trailer with my tuned 6.0l I could get in the mid to upper teens. I know its apple to oranges but main reason why I sold it quick.492Views0likes0CommentsRe: just saw my 1st 2020 F-350's
It just so happens I just got off the Ford and Ram website looking at the brochures on their HD offerings. I am really impressed with both. I haven't owned/worked a diesel truck in a few years. I might be in the "need" for one soon for commercial work and looking at what they offer now. My preference on paper would be Ford because of the 10 spd transmission and the fact they build both their engine and transmission and their styling.299Views0likes0CommentsNeed Help with TowLite
I just bought an 1998 TowLite hard-shell pop up from local auction with worn out placard so don't know the model. It is a collapsible TT with hard shell (pop-up?) and wanted to know how to raise the roof/sides? It is still on their lot and will get it and take it home to try to check it out fully. Thanks1.1KViews0likes3CommentsRe: Experience/Opinions on a 2008 F450 for Towing
Thanks everyone. I looked all over and the consensus is that they are bad engines besides the die hard owners who stand by them. I was shocked that even Bill at PowerstrokeHelp on YouTube recently made a video declaring he won't work on them anymore. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiB6IbPs2Zk810Views0likes0CommentsRe: Experience/Opinions on a 2008 F450 for Towing
Unfortunately I have a preference for Ford on trucks. I had a Dmax (LBZ) and a Cummins 6.7L and neither was cheap to repair and I prefer the interior of the Ford. I prefer automatic transmissions. I have looked at day cab single axles but that brings up different set of questions since I know less about them. The modern MDT's are overpriced in my book. I have seen some older International MDT's with the DT466/Allison that I heard was reliable but some shipping clients have an age limit on trucks I have heard too. Grit dog wrote: If you re-read your post, you kind of answered your own question. Fantastic chassis, not fantastic engine. If you can get it for cheap enough that installing/painting a truck bed, a new engine and whatever other little stuff you see would t put you over it’s retail value by much then my answer would be a solid maybe. And if the engine holds up you win. AND if you could delete it if necessary. (Same for any brand pre def truck) Question is how much are you hauling? IMO there are better choices in that age range. Namely either other brand. And if you need the chassis of a truck that big, go Dodge/Sterling. Older truck, heavy hauling, getting a manual trans would be preferable too. That said, there are plenty of older Cummins and Dmax on their second engine too. I attribute it to maintenance and people not knowing what they’re doing with tuners and Diesel engines in general.810Views0likes0CommentsRe: Experience/Opinions on a 2008 F450 for Towing
..unless you hate yourself lol :) You know I am also a fan of the V-10's you gave me advice on my first 2 when I joined this forum and was new to tow vehicles and travel trailers. For this tow vehicle I wanted to be able to tow up to 24K trailer weight (incl cargo). I have seen gasser roll back tow trucks but haven't seen any gasser hot shot's yet. Could the V10 reliably tow that? carringb wrote: An F450 with 4.88 gears would be a cab-chassis model. The 4.30 gears came on the pickup chassis. Either way, I'd stay away from the 6.4L unless you hate yourself. The MDT versions weren't really any better. Sure, some of the emissions components were more robust, but the engine-killer problems were inherent to the engine design. I'd only buy one if the chassis were cheap enough to justify a Cummins swap. The high fuel consumption is also inherent to the 6.4L. You could expect V10 like fuel economy overall, slightly better on the highway, worse in town. On that note, if you're only using it occasionally, why not just get a V10?810Views0likes0CommentsExperience/Opinions on a 2008 F450 for Towing
I tried a search and only came up with a thread illustrating the turning radius and a payload debate. I am looking online at a 08 F450 that has 139k with an utility bed on it and no information on the history (auction). The cab paint (doesn't match utility bed) and interior options look like a loaded Lariat so I assume it isn't a cab chassis model. I was going to check it out in person and see how it runs and pull any codes. My purpose was to either put a pick up bed (is it different size than F350) or flat bed and gooseneck or 5th wheel and do short radius part time hauling. I was looking into hotshot and car hauling (possibly both with flat bed trailer) First let me say I know the 6.4L has a checkered history and only used for 2 years in Ford pick ups. I briefly drove a F450 single cab chassis stake bed that me and heavy diesel tech bought. When we got it the company mechanic said the engine was totaled puking coolant and oil mixing. We got it for cheap and he replaced the front engine cover (hard to find one back then) and replaced either the oil cooler or EGR cooler and we sold it. I did drive it for about 4 hours and it did drink gas (16 mpg empty IIRC) but I like the specs of the heavier duty brakes, tires, and rear end for hauling. The issues I recall for that engine are top end issues with rockers, cracked pistons, leaking radiators, emission issues from extended idling. I know the heavy diesel tech would replace the rockers on many he serviced. He would also use a different piston in them (IH?), the aftermarket has a brace and all medal radiator to address the leaking radiators. I'm not interested in a used 6.7L at this time so no need to talk about its attributes. I towed RV trailers with a new one part time for 1 year about 10k miles so I know how great they are but that one was on a commercial lease and I'm looking to build a tow vehicle cheap with cash. Now they have been out a long time I was wondering if there were any other big issues or aftermarket solutions. I'm not dead set on getting it just seriously considering but wanted to hear from the experts here where I tend to get all my truck info. The pro for me is hopefully I would get it cheap. The engine when it is running right is purported to be pretty strong stock and a beast if tuned. Give me a cheaper entry point into a heavy hauler that for now I would only used 2-3 days a week. If something went terribly south just sell it for small loss or part it out vs the 40-75K I see for newer to new trucks. Is the frame the same as a F350? Wondered so when shopping for beds. Was only the 4.88 rear gear available or did they also come with 4.30's? I see a good number of 6.4L's for sale over 150-175k with engine issues (at auction) is it poor maintenance, driver abuse, extended idling or just its design. I thought I heard that the 6.4L's used in MDT faired better without the Ford installed emissions but never saw hard proof of that.4.1KViews0likes17CommentsRe: 2007 Navigator No Brake Fluid at Caliper
UPDATE: Shop diagnosed a bad ABS Pump aka HCU. I just changed on in a Mountaineer so didn't think it could happen again. I actually didn't believe the shop but gave them the go ahead. New the HCU was 800 my cost (1,000 retail) but the shop found a good used one locally for $75 and installed it and bled the lines. I was told on the Mountaineer that the ABS pump needs to bled itself with Ford software but this truck stops fine. Only issue is if it sits for awhile and is started the ABS light comes on but all other starts for the day it stays off. Shop manager when told of this believes the ABS module needs to be programmed (they did on the Mountaineer). I will find out about the programming later this week.606Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2007 Navigator No Brake Fluid at Caliper
We traced the brake line from the caliper to the ABS/HCU and it was all hard line. The lines are not out in the open and wondered if the blockage could be in the ABS pump or Master Cylinder so I decided it's a job for the pros or as another poster stated a Master Brake Tech. BurbMan wrote: Rowekmr, what you are missing is that there can be other flexible lines besides just the hoses that go to the calipers. The caliper hose goes to hard line, but then you need to follow that hard line to see if it transitions to hose and back to line again somewhere. THAT may be the hose that is giving you issues. Re-read whjco's post.606Views0likes0Comments
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