All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Suitable Dinghys for Class 2 HitchThanks again folks. I can understand how shear stress on the tow system by way of Tongue Weight can affect the Towing Capacity and stress on the system but when towing either 4 down or on a Dolly it becomes a mystery why a straight pull (tension only) can affect anything on the tow vehicle frame wise other than making the Engine and running gear work a little harder. Or am I missing something? Like I mean are there stresses I am unaware of that make the weld at the extension the weakest link in the chain so to speak?Re: Suitable Dinghys for Class 2 Hitch"Do not use magic math to make it work":B I hear ya..........ThanksRe: Suitable Dinghys for Class 2 Hitch luvlabs wrote: Don't ignore the hitch rating however, are you sure it is a class II? Most hitches on motorhomes are at least class III. Would you consider towing flat? The number of cars that weigh less than 3500 lbs is pretty extensive and it is easier than a tow dolly. If you have to use a dolly, almost any small, front wheel drive car will work. You got your pick of virtually any of the subcompact cars built today. As far as I know a class 2 is rated for 3500 lbs max. If that is correct then I am sure I have a Class 2 hitch. The 3500 max is clearly stamped on the hitch by Winnebago. I have the P30 Chassis. As far as I know a class 2 is about max for that Chassis. As for towing Flat....I dont think I can do that with a Front wheel drive. Are there many on this forum that tow dinghys with a P30?I would be interested to know.Suitable Dinghys for Class 2 HitchAs most are aware a class 2 Hitch allows Max 3500 lbs. If a Tow Dolly is used the 5 to 700 lbs it ways must be within the 3500 lbs. Are there any vehicles light enough so as not to be over the 3500 lbs with a 700 lb Dolly?? I have yet to find one other than a smart car. Or am I taking the Hitch Rating too literally? Thanks in advance.