All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Residential Refrigerators 63 inch highI just replaced our Dometic RM 7732 side by side with an Insignia NS-RTM10BK8 9.9 cubic foot model. The Dometic measured 32" wide by 59" tall and 23" deep and the Insignia measures 24" wide by 59" tall and 24" deep including doors. The Dometic was flush to the cabinet and I installed the Insignia box flush also but the doors stick out about 2 1/2" but that's fine because there is a pocket door next to the fridge that sticks out the same. The wife is happy because she gained another 8" wide closet next to the new fridge for her broom and and the Dyson stick vacuum hangs off the back wall. my limiting dimension was the height because I have the power distribution center below my fridge and I couldn't make the opening taller. The new unit is smaller dimensionally but it's about 2 CF larger inside so unless you have room to open the width on the hole you probably will not find anything to fit exactly so don't rule out the smaller apartment size refers.Re: Residential Fridge install questionThanks for all the replies and suggestions based on what you've done. I think I'm going to leave the roof vent open for now and put some foam insulation over the access door but leave the door functional in case I need to get in there for any reason. Another question I have is what others have done with the freezer defrost drain hose? Normally it drains into a pan and then the water just evaporates from the compressor heat. I have a hose fitting from the old fridge that drains into the grey water tank so I'm thinking of removing the current drain hose flapper valve and connect the hose to the fitting that dumps into the grey holding tank.Re: Residential Fridge install question azrving wrote: What model fridge Insignia NS-RTM10BK8 Others have have put these in RV's and the manual doesn't say to not use in an RV. I ran it for 3 days on my Magnum 2000 watt PSW inverter without any problems. It was only $299 on sale, so if it doesn't survive too long then not a big loss.Re: Residential Fridge install question azrving wrote: x2 on coil location. Look at installation instructions for clearances and install according to that. 1" on all sides which I have but the back is wide open and the vented outside access door for the old gas electric unit still in place so I'm not worried about ventilation to the compressor.Re: Residential Fridge install question DownTheAvenue wrote: Depends on where the coils are as to whether ventilation is needed behind the refrigerator. Check the specs on the model you are installing. Well, it's a flat back refer and the coils appear to be enclosed up the backside of the refer because the back has a contour to it that is formed like the coils are in there. The compressor is exposed down below and there is a small grid of coils inside a lower drip pan. The Whirlpool French door refer we have in the house has the coils underneath it but this one is only a 9.9 cf unit so maybe it doesn't need much of a coil grid.Residential Fridge install questionFor those of you that have installed a residential fridge in place of the traditional RV gas/electric absorption refers, did you close off the roof vent or leave it open for help in cooling the residential fridge? I'm leaning towards leaving mine open and I'm not too worried about getting cold air dropping into the MH and getting around the gaps in the cabinet opening since I plan on sealing off around the fridge real good.Re: Cracked turbo exhaust outlet tubeJust drove it 750 miles in the last 2 days. No problems so far.Re: Cracked turbo exhaust outlet tube NinerBikes wrote: How old or new are your engine mounts, and are they a wear item? Too much flex in the engine mounts can stress exhaust systems beyond their design capabilities. As far as I know they are original. However, the 2 brackets supporting the pipe assembly are bolted directly the exhaust manifold as is the turbo so that entire assemble is held rigid to the engine and any torque movement from the engine, these components just move with it. There is flex pipe after the exhaust brake down to the muffler to absorb any movement from the engine.Re: Cracked turbo exhaust outlet tube Bull Rider wrote: I do hobby welding. I have a TIG welder and a MIG welder. I TIG weld stainless steel. There are a TON of different types of stainless steel, and a TON of different types of filler wire. Some of it is very specialized. If you want quality input from people that know everything to know about welding, post your question and photos over at Weldingweb.com The guys/gals over at Weldingweb are very helpful, but can be colorful and harsh too, just so you know in advance. Also provide information on who welded it in the past, and any other photos. Include clear close up photos of the weld. You will get an answer, probably more than you need. My original description may have been a little confusing. The last time it cracked (2008) I cut out and replaced the tube coming off the turbo. Then I noticed (last Sunday) it had cracked again, same place as last time. I couldn't get a new tube in time for my upcoming trip, plus if I keep cutting out the old I will run out of length on the pipe it's welded to. So I had the maintenance welder at work repair the crack by welding it on the inside of the pipe filling in the rib where it seems to crack. I put a jamb nut inside the saddle on the clamps so I could leave them a little loose on the pipe this time to allow it to expand & contract but still support the assembly. Hopefully it will hold up this time.Re: Cracked turbo exhaust outlet tube teddychamp wrote: The original pipe from Cummins with the rib is designed to prevent the cracking of the pipe. HOW Ever the Key to the problem is, that you must let the Engine run 3-4 minutes before shutting down. This allows the Engine and components to cool down to the proper Temperatures without overstressing different thicknesses of material. Agree. I always let my EGT get down to normal idle temp before shutting down. Typically 3-4 minutes like you say.