bobinyelm
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Re: Need Advice with Dometic Referigerator RM-2807 Malfunction
Chris Bryant wrote: The igniter will stop sparking itself when the flame lights- it's made to be powered continuously. There should be a manual shutoff at the valve- I shut that off to verify igniter operation. Since the igniter is now wired to be powered when the gas solenoid is powered, what stops it from sparking when the flame is burning? It's no longer turned off by the thermocouple in the modified wiring circuit. Just curious Bob432Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need Advice with Dometic Referigerator RM-2807 Malfunction
Chris Bryant wrote: Other than that- the revised wiring doesn't use the blue wire- it hooks the igniter module to the gas valve, so that it always has power if the gas valve is open. It also moves the grounds around. You can see the revised wiring at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/R704B.pdf. So you're saying that the revised wiring supplies power to the igniter continuously? That's what this diagram you linked shows alright: http://screencast.com/t/pJepTtcwEK Is the igniter module designed to work full-time (any time the gas solenoid is open)? I read with the old wiring, the igniter is "locked out" if the thermocouple is showing voltage (flame is present), but starts producing sparks if the thermocouple indicates no flame? I suspect the continuous sparking is probably better if running the fridge on gas while driving and the flame is likely to be blown out frequently? Looking at this modification inset http://screencast.com/t/VSFqUgCTg it shows changing wires, and mine has the black and yellow wires as in the modification, so the igniter should indeed be active whenever the gas solenoid is activated. Given that my solenoid was opening (allowing me to manually light the flame), I guess the connection to the igniter was faulty, since it worked after I removed and replaced the push-on spade terminals. I don't HEAR it snapping when the flame is on, though. Perhaps I'll remove one of the wires to the solenoid (so I can listen for the sparking for the full 45 second period) just to make sure it's operational. I wonder if my igniter is producing weak sparks-when I tested it, 3/16" spark was about all it would produce when hooked to a charged automobile battery. I wonder how big a spark it should be capable of? Can you hear continuous sparking (in a very quiet environment) with your outside fridge cover off, the flame on, and your ear near the burner? Thanks- I guess the diagram I found was pre-modification. Bob432Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need Advice with Dometic Referigerator RM-2807 Malfunction
dougrainer wrote: 1996---Take the cover off the rear main control module. IF the Epoxy resin on that module board is beige/tan, the ONLY fix is to replace the Module board. Those years (1993-1997) were the years Dometic had bad module boards that Intermittantly went to check for LP,EVEN IF ON AUTO and not calling for LP. There are 2 parts- The Module (updated) and a Ground Loop harness that needs installed also. If your Module board is NOT beige but greenish in color(meaning that the board is the updated module board), then do what Chris advised. Doug So if I have a green board (I do), does that mean I also have the updated harness I wonder?433Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need Advice with Dometic Referigerator RM-2807 Malfunction
dougrainer wrote: 1996---Take the cover off the rear main control module. IF the Epoxy resin on that module board is beige/tan, the ONLY fix is to replace the Module board. Those years (1993-1997) were the years Dometic had bad module boards that Intermittantly went to check for LP,EVEN IF ON AUTO and not calling for LP. There are 2 parts- The Module (updated) and a Ground Loop harness that needs installed also. If your Module board is NOT beige but greenish in color(meaning that the board is the updated module board), then do what Chris advised. Doug Yes, I had a '96 Lance w/ a tan board that went bad. This one is green. I removed the igniter module and tested it w/ a battery, and it worked fine. I then checked the wires (black and yellow) to the igniter from the board, and it supplied 12v. I re-hooked the wires up, and its now working perfectly and lighting the gas immediately. Bad connection? though the push-on spade connectors looked clean.434Views0likes0CommentsNeed Advice with Dometic Referigerator RM-2807 Malfunction
I have a '96 BigFoot T/C with a Dometic RM-2807 3-way fridge that will not operate on GAS. If I just select AUTO, it will click to GAS and after 45 seconds issues a CHECK message. During this period, I hear NO "snapping" of the gas igniter. If I use a lighter during that 45 seconds, the gas flame ignites and the fridge stays lit. That makes me think either the main circuit board is not supplying the igniter module with 12v to make it work, or the igniter itself is bad. I looked up the circuit at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/domser.pdf Here is an instant link to just the electrical diagram: http://screencast.com/t/hyrjRWSFnU It appears that the igniter is supplied from Terminals 4 Grn/Yel wire and a blue wire in a connector C3. I would imagine that if I never see 12v present between Term 4 Grn/Yel wire, and C3 that the board is bad, and if I DO see 12v there for the 45 second ignition cycle, and I have no spark, then the igniter module is bad? Could anyone offer their input on my problem and verify my reasoning? Thanks, Bob1.6KViews0likes9CommentsRe: Question for Big Foot TC userer
stevenal wrote: I finally took a look at my 'foot. It's been a while since I've used the dinette bed. A platform folds up to support the table edge. This platform has a foldable leg to support it. It all folds and hangs off the bench seat when the table is being used as a table. Thanks for looking. I don't see anything on mine at the back end of the dinette that would fold out to help. Any chance you could snap it with a smart phone and send it to me at bobinyelm@yahoo.com if you can't post it here? The 2X2 I mentioned doesn't look like it would be involved in the table top. Bob371Views0likes0CommentsRe: Looking for LOWEST BTU Roof A/C available-
coolmom42 wrote: NinerBikes wrote: Might just be easier/cheaper to pair another Honda Eu2000i with cables to run the A/C, both of them in Eco mode. Or a Yamaha EF2400Is model, solo. This is a very good point. You could sell the Champion to subsidize another Honda. It's not a good point at all IMHO, but thanks. I have no interest whatsoever running two Hondas, and I don't believe I expressed interest in selling the Champion, though I guess I must have somehow given that impression. I bought the Champion to sit in my P/U to run the 13.5 in my 5th wheel. I want an A/C I can run w/ the Honda for the truck, and I guess unless I find a used 7700 or 8300 Cub, or a 7100 DuoTherm (I found was once popular), I'll probably go with a Mach 1 PS 11,000.460Views0likes0Comments
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