Roadking284
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Re: Mouse activity
The guys at our deer lease introduced me to mint oil. Small bottle and use cotton balls. Put cotton ball at opening of bottle and turn upside down a few seconds. Then distribute around floor and squish a few into any duct grilles. Along with the steel/brass wool stuffed into outside holes it seems to have worked. We leave the TT there year'round and sometimes don't visit for 2 months at a time. Good luck RK533Views0likes0CommentsRe: Old camper wiring
OK got my new electronic troubleshooting toy in the mail yesterday (tone generator and probe). I traced the 3rd wire and it is connected to the tow vehicle plug harness (7pin). A quick continuity check with my trusty D'Arsonval meter confirmed it. I did have in line fuses installed in the wire coming from the converter. They looked cheesy. Newer style automotive push in fuses. I'm replacing both one at front exposed to elements, the other in the converter compartment. Yes the little break away brake box has a wire coming from it. I haven't traced it yet. I plan on replacing the broken cable too. For now the trailer brakes are working. Thats great idea to check for leaks with positive air pressure! You guys n gals are full of great ideas!! Keep em coming! Thank you RK382Views0likes0CommentsRe: Alternator Charging ? Again
Ok your truck alternator is doing its job perfectly, and newish batteries eliminates that problem. The only thing Im wondering is arent most campers designed to charge the camper battery during driving thru the harness? esp if you have a 5 or 7 pin connector? Also let me get your setup straight: you are running an INverter to a CONverter to charge the camper battery? ie. Truck alternator to INverter to CONverter to "house" battery. Is that right? (probably not) I am going thru a 1986 Prowler Lynx wiring setup due to a prev owner screwing the wires all up. What I discovered is there are 3 positive wires connected to the "house" battery. One from the Converter for charging during shore power, One from the house batt going to the 12v fuse box in camper, and one going from the house batt to the trailer harness for charging during towing. Although I've never checked the conn at the truck plug, after reading your post I'm curious now as to exactly how much voltage/amperage I'm getting there. As far as your options you listed, C sounds the best senario you have going. The 35 amp is working right? maybe not as fast as you'd like though. Have you thot about running two 6 volt batteries in series? you will get much longer use per charge that way.286Views0likes0CommentsRe: Alternator Charging ? Again
To BFL13 I agree with YC1. I am a mechanic and your alternator should put out between 13.5 to 14.5v. If your truck battery is not holding a little better than 12v.,then it also can be pulling amps for it. You need to get your battery load tested. Most local autoparts stores will do this for free. Its the ONLY way to test a battery correctly. Getting back to your alternator: The nature of the way modern alternators work combined with a regulator should produce a steady amp rating at idle. It will go a bit higher at 2000 rpm but there shouldn't be that great of a difference. Start by getting both your batteries load tested and put a meter across your pos and neg truck battery post 1st with engine off key off, then during idle. check voltage. if you do not see and increase in the voltage from 12 to 13.5 after starting at idle replace the alternator. As far as your original question, I've never seen anyone direct wire a camper battery off a alternator. It should work ok with the heavier gauge (thicker) wiring. Install a heavy duty in line fuse rated for the circuit just to protect the alternator. You can get them at places like Northern tool. Good luck, and please post follow up after you check a few things!190Views0likes0CommentsRe: Old camper wiring
Ahhh thanks for the many replies fellas! I did not consider the tow vehilcle charge conn. Bought new deep cycle battery and solar charger along with solar controller. This camper is used and parked at the hunting lease year 'round. We do not visit there during the summer but once every two months or so. We have shore power there but shut it off during absences to keep power bill down. The trailer has an emergency separation cable connected to a box but the cable is broken. The trailer is not used for towing very much and once I get it back there and parked/setup I imagine it will stay there a long while. I own a '05 KZ toy hauler that stays at the house in the event we go "camping" some where. I towed the old girl home for some major upgrades. I replaced the roof a/c as it no longer worked. Re-applied the rubber coating paint over the metal roof due to thin spots showing thru. Replaced both vents due to cracking and leaking. Replaced the bath fan bc all the orig blades were missing. Rebuilt the missing bench from scratch bc wanted to restore orig design kitchen table/bed. The Orig owner tore it out and was using a chinchy fold out card table that was junk. Pressure washed years of green mold and black gunk off the outside. Discovered a lions head design on the front shade that was so black you couldnt see it. Repacking and checking the wheel bearings is next.381Views0likes0CommentsOld camper wiring
Hello, I am new to this site and hope this question is posted in the right area. I did a search and did not find anything close to my question. 1986 Prowler Lynx 26ft Travel trailer. Original problem: Battery not charging with shore power connected. I am 3rd owner and did get manuals from seller. No wiring diagrams. One sheet included stated check label on converter to see if battery charging option installed. Checked with mirror and flashlight no label anywhere. Converter working fine with shore power all 12v systems work. Upon inspecting wiring harness coming from inside camper to battery there are 3 wires connected to the positive post. I can understand two. One from converter red wire for battery charging, the other from battery to 12v fuse panel. Two wires are red one is white. One red wire was not connected and was capped. I removed the wires from the positive post and with shore power connected the capped red has 13v all the time. I suspect the capped wire was charging all the time and boiling the battery dry and therefore someone dis-connected it. The white wire should go to the 12v fuse panel. My question is what would the 3rd (2nd Red wire) go to? The tongue jack is manual only. The 12v fuse panel has 2 red wires attached to the positive feed. (thot one would be white). The negative post on battery is black and is grounded to the frame. Thanks RK3.2KViews0likes8Comments
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