NickG
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Re: Stabilizing jacks don't really stabilize much at all
Looks like I'll look into the JT Strongarms, but I will also need to do something about the sinking when someone steps on the steps at the door. I know it will never be rock solid. I was just comparing to the previous trailer I had. I'm not trying to get it like a house. Just trying to get it like the trailer I had before. The biggest differences between the old Mallard to new Flagstaff are: -Conventional frame/build vs Superlite (whatever that means as a difference) -Model 30E vs 27BHSS (FLGSTF actual length is bout 2 feet shorter than MLRD) -Individual crank jacks at each corner vs 2 sets of 2 electric jacks on one assembly each fore/aft -Only used ground wheel chocks for Mallard vs chocks AND blocks for FLagstaff489Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilizing jacks don't really stabilize much at all
Durb wrote: Some electric stabilizers are ganged meaning one switch lowers both rear stabilizers at the same time. If you have these it is critical that they are block sufficiently so that both stabilizers hit your blocks at the same time. If not you may only have ground pressure on one stabilizer. I used to lower the rear stabilizers with the tongue a little low. Then use the tongue jack to bring to level and load the rear stabilizers more. Then firm up the front stabilizers and then firm up the tongue jack a bit. Mine DO have the one-switch for both jacks. However, if one touches first, that one does not bind while the other continues down. When the other touches, the resistance transfers the pressure to both jacks. Knowing how this works tells me I could have another inherent issue. If the jacks "pivot" to allow them both to contact before the pressure reacts to both of them, then they really aren't very stable to begin with. There will always be that pivot point that is not locked in.506Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilizing jacks don't really stabilize much at all
Thanks for the responses. Just a few notes... -I am aware that I will never get the trailer rock solid, but I was hoping to get it to perform like my last one. -I do use wheel chocks, but don't see how that stabilizes with the suspension still being active. I see these as safety items for anti-roll, but doing little to ward off up/down shake. -I do use the orange, plastic stackable blocks, but did not use them on my last trailer. I will try the old wood blocks I used on the old one. -I do adjust the jacks to compensate for settling. However, I have this issue on my concrete driveway as well. -While it's possible the electric motor does not have the power to put enough pressure on the frame, I believe they do. Knowing I should not be trying to "bend" the frame with the jacks, they do set in hard and actually move the trailer up a bit when I let them dig in. I believe it is possible that this trailer design simply has a more inherent wobble factor. My plan is to make something that will go between the axle and frame to lock out suspension jounce. From the answers here, I think I will go back to wood bases under the jacks, minimize the extension lengths, do something that locks out the suspension, and maybe add a manual jack near the steps. I do appreciate the many responses. If there is not one already, I'd love to see a stabilizing "sticky". There is a lot to know beyond the obvious, and I'll bet many people have improvised with great results.507Views0likes0CommentsStabilizing jacks don't really stabilize much at all
If this has been discussed (I can't believe it hasn't), I was not able to find anything in a quick search for it. I recently bought a 2012 Forest River Flagstaff 27BHSS. It has electric stabilizer jacks in which I thought was an added bonus. My previous travel trailer was a 2001 Mallard 30E and is also the only other one I ever had. I assumed the jacks would steady the trailer since the ones on my old Mallard did a great job. This Flagstaff may be different due to it being a "superlite", which I define as "flimsy". Still, shouldn't I expect a reasonable amount of steadiness? With the jacks fully down, the entire trailer reacts to anyone walking up the steps into the door. I can tell who it is by the amount the trailer moves. Also, If a kid turns over in a rear bunk, we feel the trailer rock all the way up in the front bed. I can't be the only one experiencing this. What might our options be? Add more jacks?18KViews0likes50CommentsRe: I'm back! Forest River Flagstaff info requested.
Got the trailer home tonight. A few observations: - It has the 4-link EZ WDH and sway control. As I pulled out onto the highway, My van wanted to pull to the right. i had to hold the wheel a bit left to go straight. It eventually cleared up. The trailer pulls quite stable and smooth. - The hitch is LOUD! Creaky, moaning, groaning... Very annoying! -I hate the 14 inch wheels. The tires are new carlisles, which are not my choice of tire, but won't worry about it this late in the season. However, I want to change to 15 inch wheels with Maxxis tires next season. -On the way home, the skies opened up and we were in a freaking Michigan monsoon! Cars were pulled over. Hard to see at all. Flash flood warnings. Some freeways became lakes with fully submerged cars. It poured hard the whole ride home. Had to back into my driveway basically blind at night with my wife and kid barking directions at me in the downpour. Couldn't hear them. Couldn't see squat. All the corrections I had to make musta woke the neighbors with that creaking, crunching hitch! It's in the yard. I used the monsoon opportunity to do another leak check. All corners and joints were bone dry.296Views0likes0CommentsRe: I'm back! Forest River Flagstaff info requested.
Great info here and much appreciated. While I agree that the "Lite" build TT's may skimp on some more robust design materials and procedures, it is my opinion that all low-to-mid level TT's are built pretty badly. I actually expect some leaks and general material flaws eventually. Hence, is the reason I try to stay ahead of things and keep a watchful eye on the unit. My main concern was getting to know some FR specific issues that I might be aware of. I WILL look at the axle welds!!! Wow! Glad that wasn't worse!!296Views0likes0CommentsI'm back! Forest River Flagstaff info requested.
Used to be here a lot when I had our 2001 30' Mallard 30E. Sold it about 4-5 years ago and finally purchased another camper. This came up at work here at GM and I felt it was a fait-to-good deal. It is a 2011 Forest River/Flagstaff 27BHSS. Bought new by a couple with no kids, washed every trip, waxed annually at minimum (and it shows), roof treated with the 303 (301?) annually, covered each winter with custom cover, not a mark inside or out. New tires, new 4000 lb electric tounge jack, electric stabilizer jacks, all hitch equipment with EZ sway system, all silverware and stuff like that. NADA had it at about 13,000 - 15,000 depending on options. I'm paying 10,000. Not being familiar with Forest River, I still felt I should grab it. They sold due to the tow vehicle being totalled and they replaced it with a vehicle that won't pull it. All that said, what might I look out for in this product? It is clear that it is certainly a notch or 3 above my old Mallard.2.7KViews0likes8CommentsOnly two curcuits working on trailer wiring pigtail
Since I sold my travel trailer, it has been a long time since I towed anything until I rented a skid steer recently. When I hooked the trailer up, I found that the left turn signal and left brake light were thee only things working on the trailer. I didn't know if it was the rental trailer or my plug, but after years of it hanging there exposed to everything Michigan has, I knew the plug might need replacing. Now that I am picking my new boat up tomorrow, I figured I'd take no chances and put a new pigtail on. I replaced the plug with the same type and wired it the same (obviously). Using a test light, I see that it WAS my plug that was bad that day, and still is. I only have power to the left turn signal/ brake and reverse lights. No running lights, no right turn signal/brake, no constant power, no electric brakes. Seeing that the plug is all new with carefully wired connections, I am stumped where to go from here. There is no break in the harness where a "T" connecter could be. The harness just disappears into the chassis and runs... wherever. By the way, when I last towed my travel trailer over 4 years ago, everything worked. Any clue for a fella? It is a 2004 GMC Savana 2500 series van.794Views0likes4Comments
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