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Re: Wood hole - Water damage
Thanks for all the help. That sounds like a good idea on how to make the plug. What I don't understand is why the plug is needed. The plywood sheathing on the roof of RV's isn't very thick. I'm not sure what a plug 3/8"'s or so thick by 1.25" in diameter will do.494Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wood hole - Water damage
I should have mentioned the hole just goes through the rubber membrane and the outer plywood. The trailer is finished on the inside so I have no access to the backside of the plywood. The plastic I referred to was to just cover the hole with something rigid so the eternabond wouldn't be punctured if stepped on, 1/8" Aluminium would work as well. agesilaus wrote: The putty is mildly sticky, if you plan to thru drill the hole, then I'd put something on the other side of the hole. That plastic you mentioned. The best thing would to be get someone on the other side to hold it in place. But maybe you could tape it up. Coat the plastic with a thin coat of oil or maybe put a piece of saran wrap between the plastic and the hole. You don't want the plastic to stick, on the inside, anyway on the outside sticking would be fine. Thinking about it you could just put something heavy on the outside to hold the plastic down while you apply the putty. Tho a foot would be better. On the inside you may want to get the putty as smooth as possible, a wet finger works OK for that and after a could days apply a little paint to blend it in with the ceiling. On the outside do what you were talking about plastic then eternabond.494Views0likes0CommentsWood hole - Water damage
I am dealing with an anchor in the roof that wasn't sealed properly. Water damaged the area around the hole but seems to be only 1/4" to 1/2" I am wondering if i need to remove the damaged (damp) wood or can I just seal the holes with Eternabond? Chris3.1KViews0likes24CommentsRe: Atwood Water Heater won't stay lit.
Hi All I found the problem. The gas valve at the water hearer has what appears to be a second regulator in it, and it was shot. I found a guy that sold me the entire control system for $40, changed the gas valve and it lit and stayed running. I took the old gas valve apart and there was some minor corrosion on the valve plunger seats and rust sitting on top of the rubber diaphragm. Thanks to all for your help. Chris1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood Water Heater won't stay lit.
In my testing, i bypassed the thermal link, ECO and thermostat and it still the same issue. When the thermal link is shot, i don't think you get any gas or spark. I just hooked up the orifice directly to the regulator bypassing the gas valve and I can get a much better flame. Leaves me to believe the gas valve itself isn't letting the gas flow properly.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsAtwood Water Heater won't stay lit.
I have an Atwood GC6AA-10E Water Heater. Since I got the trailer last summer, the hot water heater won't work on gas. It will light, run for 2 or 3 seconds and turn off. If I bypass the controls and hook up 12v directly to the gas valve it will run but the ignighter does not get red hot. The flame ignighter/sensor appears to be in the right spot, and the flame appears weak. So far I have: Replaced the igniter/sensor - both work the same Tightened all connections cleaned the orifice cleaned the flue and burner tubes had the dealer verify the board bypassed the ECO and Thermostat when testing and replaced them used a bbq regulator hooked up directly to the gas valve cleaned the gas valve with throttle body cleaner verified the solenoid valves are working in the gas valve by checking them 1 solenoid at a time Any ideas would help. It would be nice to have access to another gas valve to test it but I haven't been able to locate one. Thanks for your time, Chris5.4KViews0likes14Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 19, 202544,029 Posts
