All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: A/C drips sometimes thru the vent filter......Can't talk about the drain pain other than to say the one in our Coleman/RVP Mach 15 is plastic and thee's a drain at each end, meaning right and left as mounted on the coach. I don't recall your saying which make/model you have.Re: Need some helpWhat Chassis do you have? Don't go by the "Coach Year" rather get the Date of Manufacture from the chassis builder's label in the door jamb. Have you been able to drive this coach? Gotta be a Chassis Battery somewhere, unless your Deep Cycle is installed as Chassis... I looked for "Battery Switch" in the Owner's Manual and only found it mentioned in that list of things powered by House/Coach Battery. No reference to where it was or how it worked/when to use it. Could you post pictures of the underhood area? Sometimes, House Battery is concealed in places like under a step well. But at least in Class C, I've never heard of Chassis Battery NOT under the hood. And if it's a Ford, Chassis Battery is usually passenger side.Re: Need some helpSo the Chassis Battery (for the Ford Van part) is absent... Thought you'd driven it, must've been thinking of another project. You found empty space for a battery, maybe cables with terminals like this or this Missing chassis battery. Can you plug the coach's Shore Tie Cable into a 120 Volt outlet where you are? What kind of BBQ Sauce... ? Dinner menu sounds great. Home made potato salad....Re: Need some help midnightsadie wrote: got a good battery?" TWO Batteries Actually. Look at Owner Manual Page 21. Battery on the left side of the chart is a "car battery." Battery in the Center Column is the "House" or "Coach" battery. Deep Cycle/RV/Trolling Motor Battery. The top three items in that center column have to be present and good, along with connections mentioned above, to even attempt to crank the generator. Power Center (first item on the list) should work lighting etc on its own but probably will NOT crank the generator. I looked at Your Posts. Chef! Recipes! Where are you Camped and When's Dinner? Glad to help, keep in touch.Re: A/C drips sometimes thru the vent filter......Unless it's new or recently cleaned... Go topside and clean it. Breaker off then pull shroud followed by evaporator coil inner shroud at front. Catalog the screws to put the right ones back. Brush debris then spray both coil with 409 or similar. Rinse clean with hose and fine spray nozzle. Use towels to keep rinse water out of coach. I use a license plate as deflector. Find drain holes and make sure they are clean. Water you spray should drain fast. Ducted? Make sure Defrost Sensor is in place. Run Fan On, and High Non Ducted? You're a Beach Guy. No Freeze Sensor. Puts You in charge, set to High Fan only. Clean Filters of course.Re: Newbie Help...Did I just mess up my a/c...roofIf I found the A/C could move, or that I could move it, after a mishap like this I'd want a new gasket in there. Be careful of your roof material so you don't loosen it or make a hole. The A/C is heavy to get to and from the ground but not so heavy you can't work 2x4's under it to R&R the Gasket. That said, you must disconnect any wiring between you and sliding the new Gasket between the A/C and Roof. Are you OK with a snugging of the bolts? Even doing nothing? Possibly, Probably? YES, but the downside of Dirty Harry's "Do I Feel Lucky?" question is a condensate and rainwater leak into your RV...Re: Upgrading Phoenix Cruiser 2551 A/CYou bought used, correct? Pull the 13.5 apart from the roof and clean it. Chris Bryant has an article HERE. It's incomplete, broken links to the pictures, but it tells you what to do. I'll venture that your 13500 IS adequate for your size coach and will keep you cool if you keep it clean. The intake filters too, of course. I salvaged a 20 year old Coleman Mach 13500 that I thought I was going to have to replace, following Chris' article. While the shroud (the pretty finish one) is off, make sure that (if it's Coleman) that there's a foam baffle running vertically along both ends of the Condenser (rear Coil). If missing you can make them out of foam pipe insulation or a swim noodle. Again, this thanks to Chris Bryant.Re: Does any one know? Racine96 wrote: J-D, I did the front sway bar last year... Affirming what many already assert. That I truly don't know which end is which... If you have a hard surface to work on, or maybe more so if grass or gravel, put cardboard down. I hang onto a major appliance box if I can. Slither on that, then take the box the bar came in. Close it with the bar on top and slide it all under. The few inches made positioning the bar a whole lot easier. Really seems to me your bar mounts differently than ours. Not better or worse, just differently. Yeah, just looked again. Same part number, bar and axle brackets look same but the end links that mount forward of the axle have less of a "home shop made" look to them than ours from several years ago do. If there's risk anywhere... NOT from the coach falling on you since no need to jack it up. Just find the right holes to get the best angle for those end links. Then be sure you don't pinch/crush any wiring or lines on either side of those frame rails. EDIT: Or yourself... Removing a hitch once, nut up in the box frame wouldn't back off. So I grasped the hitch, put the 1/2" air impact back up and blip the trigger. This instantly told me that I had also bumped the tool from OFF to ON. Predictably I dropped the wrench. That might've been OK but it was an old wrench and the 3/4" socket fell off, rolling out of my reach since I was attached to the vehicle by the left thumb. Took me awhile to get out of that one. Work with a Spotter!Re: Generator and acFor awhile, HF had a Red and a Blue line of "Gasoline Generators." I looked at those, and I think one of the blue ones had a 30A "RV" receptacle. Back in that "Day" some of the blue were called Chicago Electric, then HF adopted "Predator", made them all Red, and the RV capability went away. So, if what you have is Red, listed on "Gasoline Generators" at HF.com, has the Roll Cage, usually shown with a Wheel Kit... Jobsite/Contractor/Open Frame 120/240 generator. Can provide only HALF of its rating on any ONE circuit. Notes: The biggest one, 8750 Watt, includes an "RV Adaptor" like you mentioned having. It's still using only ONE leg, but since the genny is so big, half will support a 30A load. Your 4000 won't. Next Note: Under the "Invertor" category, the bigger one also comes with an RV Adaptor BUT BUT BUT a huge difference: The receptacle it plugs into, is THREE PRONG 120 VOLT already. All it's doing is adapting from Twist Lock 120 to RV 120 using all three terminals. That's Line, Neutral and Ground.Re: Generator and acPlease post your Predator model. I recall that some had the 30A/120V receptacle. Will look at HF and see what I can find. When you use a four-to-three A-Dapter, you're passing ONE of the two 240-volt legs through, NOT combining them. Combining would be a dead short. Inverter gennys, and HF has a few, like Honda 2000/2200, can put all their wattage to one circuit. So can RV generators. Looking more and more like open-frame jobsite genny providing 2000 Surge and 1600 Run per 120 volt leg. You can do that twice, like A/C on one leg and microwave on the other. But they have to be on the opposite legs.
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts