H20ENG
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Re: WHEN I ASKED LIFELINE ABOUT THEIR GOLF CAR BATTERIES
One of the best upgrades I did to my old toy hauler was replacing the 2 "marine deep cycle" batteries with GCs. That and LEDs made for several days without running the gen for a recharge. The new rig came with true deep cycle 12v batteries. Someday GCs will take their place.523Views0likes0CommentsRe: WHEN I ASKED LIFELINE ABOUT THEIR GOLF CAR BATTERIES
MEXICOWANDERER wrote: Other Lifeline I used a 50-watt incandescent lamp, discharged it totally then jammed 14.4 volts into it. 164 ampere hours if I remember correctly. It's rested voltage is .06 less than the T Can you explain why you discharged it fully before recharging? I thought this was bad for all except NiCads :) Were you just seeing how much it had stored without being charged for so long?524Views0likes0CommentsRe: Connect Atwood AC-1351 to AGS
My DIY budget minded brain points me toward this solution. There may be a more elegant electronic solution but this would work: 1.Rewire the ACs to 120V breakers and off the inverters. 2.Depending on the input voltage needed by the AGS, use a relay tapped off the thermostat cool signal to trigger the AGS. Wire these parallel with each AC so either will start the gen. 3.On said thermostat cool signal wire(s), run these through time delay relays to the AC units, so that the generator will be up to speed and transferred before trying to start the ACs. (3-5 min should be plenty)351Views0likes0CommentsRe: Hatch door repair?
As far as I know its filon/styrofoam/luan/wallpaper. My thought was to get it apart, scrape off the styrofoam and glue on the harder blue styrofoam then maybe laminate that to protect it. Original filon would stay as the outside skin. I do like the diamond plate idea. On my to hauler I think the inside of the door was an abs skin not luan353Views0likes0CommentsHatch door repair?
Hello Again All, Inspecting the rig after these (finally!) heavy NorCal rains, I noticed that my hatch doors are spongy inside around all the lock holes and the locks wont tighten due to to the panel compressing, allowing even more water to intrude in a vicious cycle. It looks as though the hatch door frame is riveted together once wrapped around the panel. I'm thinking I can drill the rivets and open the frame up enough to remove the panel. Then remove the panel from the filon skin and replace it with maybe harder blue foam and formica or something tough. Have any of you ever rebuilt a hatch door? Not looking forward to the huge outdoor kitchen hatch door issues... Thanks for any tips or links you may have!1.3KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Slide Questions
To clarify a bit- this is a new to us 2013 Premier 22RBPR with 1 cable driven dinette slide. It works fine, I just notice that it is pulling the top in slightly before the bottom. Wondering if this is by design, or is something I need to adjust. Cables are a bit looser than the 1/2" slack given in the Accuslide service manual. I will not do anything before fully understanding the procedure and desired end result. Thanks guys253Views0likes0CommentsSlide Questions
New to slides here. I want to make sure my slide is operating correctly and keep it adjusted properly. I have the Norco manuals but never heard about proper operation or adjusting for slide room orientation. -What is the proper orientation of the slide while In/Out/ In motion? When retracting, it makes sense that the top should touch first to ensure the seal is compressed and water tight. If this is correct, what is the proper clearance at the bottom flange when the top is touching? -How about extending? I assume the roof should be sloped downward when the trailer is level for runoff? I will be installing a slide topper but still want to know. -How tight should I be pulling the slide in? I want it to be water tight but don't want to stress or break anything. I cannot believe there are no limit switches on the motors. Seems all too easy to break something or get hurt if a cable lets go. I usually bring it in until the motor barely starts to labor and release the switch. - I have read on this forum that slides should not be loaded unless fully extended. Is the floor of the slide not supported inside the trailer? -I assumed there were rollers on the trailer floor and mating tracks or bearing surfaces of some sort on the slide. Now I'm reading about a "wear bar". Does the entire Darco undercoat of the slide ride on this bar? (and WTH, really!?) It seems it would just shred it over time. I cant believe that would be the bearing surface. Need lubrication? -Baby powder vs PTFE for the seals? Both seem to have good reviews. Pros/Cons of each? I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go along, just want to do it right and make it last. Thanks All!723Views0likes4Comments
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