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Re: suggestions for a better shower head????
JimK-NY wrote: Sandia Man wrote: A gallon a minute is pretty good IMO for a showerhead..... Not for me. I regularly stay in places without hookups and often where water is scarce. I use 1 gallon of water or less for my daily shower. I wet down with a dribble of water, soap up and rinse again with a dribble of water. I have also solved the waste issue adjusting the temperature. I only use the water heater for showers and know how long to run the heater to get the water to a comfortable temp. My only waste is about a cup of water getting the hot water from the tank to the shower head. the rating of the shower head is more about how much water the head will flow at whatever pressure it was tested at.... and 1 gal per minute is pretty good when compared to the 2gpm flow of residential shower heads. what YOU prefer is irrelevent to the RATED gpm flow of a given shower head, which can be user adjusted by lessening the flow or pressure thru it with either knob on the mixing valve, and by the selection of pump one chooses to use.. as you and others have also stated, conserving water is necessary for those of us who prefer to boondock away from the crowds of rv "park" hoppers, who generally have an unlimited supply of both water and power, and never have a need to learn how to conserve water in the shower. wetting down in the shower, stopping the water, then soaping up from the the feet to the head, and then rinsing well usually consumes about 1.5 gallons of water..... we have used this same method for years on both our boat and in the RV. personally, every shower I own or have ever owned has had a mirror installed in it, so that I can shave while there, which also saves a little bit of water sometimes when we know we will be taking on water, we may splurge and waste a bit of water while taking a longer shower, but once a person gets used to the military type shower, it seems like a waste of time to stay so long in the confines of the shower stall. we also carry a 5gal shower bag that can be filled from any fresh water source and left out in the sun to warm up... there is enough water in the 5 gallon bag for 4 showers that will adaquatley clean and rinse all your pits and bits, but only 2, maybe 3 showers if you need to wash down your entire body thoroughly, which is necessary if you have been riding ATV's or horses all day.... and there are those people who live in the hot, humid areas, where taking a couple showers a day is nice, and sometimes necessary, but i think most of us take a shower once a day, or every second or third day when needing to conserve water when boondocking for extended periods....781Views0likes0Commentssuggestions for a better shower head????
im looking for suggestions for a shower head that will give a wider spray of water. the one that i have now sprays about a 2inch pattern at 24inches from the shower head, and I would prefer to have one that has about a 5inch spray pattern.... due to heartlands use of the plastic fittings in the 1/2" pex line, which only have a 5/16 pathway thru them, more water flow and pressure is not an option without replacing all the joints with metal fittings, or upgrading to a larger size line thruout the freshwater plumbing system.... those of you who have a good spray pattern from your shower head, what brand or type are you using?.... thanks3.1KViews0likes11CommentsISO Backup camera suggestions and advice...
Im looking for suggestions, hints and tips on a backup camera/monitoring system for my 5th wheel.... some have said the wireless cameras are a great choice, and others have said they are a poor choice, due to other RF interference and lag time... camera systems can be found from $49.95 to $3000+, but im looking for something in the more reasonable 200-400 range. I want a 3 or 4 channel system, with a minimum of 2 side mounted cameras at the rear of my trailer, and a bumper camera at the rear of the tow vehicle... what are people using, and is there anyone here who has fist hand experience putting together and installing their own system?.... thanks448Views0likes0CommentsRe: 50a to 30a question
Me Again wrote: You still should install a 50 surge protector. While on a 50 amp outlet, if you loose neutral you burn up all your AC items with 240V across them. I agree strongly with using a surge protector (with combined auto transfer switch if you have a hardwired generator onboard).... BUT.. as for burning up all the ac appliances if the neutral leg should be lost for some reason, I dont see how this is even possible unless its wired incorrectly INSIDE the RV... the 50a shore power has the potential of supplying 240volt power to the unit, but the power panel INSIDE the rv is where the 120v would have to be combined to create the 240v power. this is not the case on most RV's... but the high end units with a washer/dryer option or household range will have the 220v option inside (or anyone who knows what to do could wire a circuit in) bottom line is, on a 50a circuit, there are 2 separate legs of 120v power that are "out-of-phase" with one another coming in to the rv (if the 2 legs of 120v power were "in-phase" with one another, like on a generator, there would no option for 240v power), and these are NOT combined in any manner except at the 240v appliance itself... and in the USA the neutral is only acting like a ground in 240v circuit, and without it the appliance still works like normal. but ALL the 120v circuits will be lacking power (because half of its circuit has been lost).. but the appliances will be fine. some countries of the world use only 2 wires to supply their 240v power, and not the three that we use here in the US.. but yes, one CAN absolutely fry all their 120 volt components if they dont know electricity, and yet try to do their own wiring inside the RV distribution panel or on the shore power side of it...583Views0likes0CommentsRe: renting out rv
an RV is one of the most delicate toys one can own. they arent built for even the slightest amount of abuse... but when taken care of properly, they can last a long time. when one has no clue about RV's, and the unit isnt owned by the user, it can take an unusual amount of abuse.... the reason RVshare doesnt want it in their lineup, is that an older unit is prone to more problems that a newer one is unlikely to have, and with the price of the rental on an older unit being less, and a potentially higher number of repairs, there is no profit in it.... as has been said already by Dutchman, you will be money ahead selling it now and buying a newer unit later, IF you decide to go back to RV'ing after your time away from it...446Views0likes0CommentsRe: 8ga wire large enough?
donn0128 wrote: 8ga wire is rated for 40A. 450 watts solar array is capable of 37A. So theoretically you would have sufficient cable. Of course 450A solar array is not likely to ever produce the full 37 amps. Unless you have a solar tracking package. and are in the arctic on a very sunny summer day... solar panels reach maximum efficiency with full sun and cold temperatures. as panel temps rise, efficiency drops, as it does with wiring, and batteries....556Views0likes0CommentsBAL Accu-Slide units... removal procedure?
my 5th wheel is equipped with the norco accu-slide out, and I need to remove it to reinforce the bottom of it... does anyone have experience with this procedure? over time, it seems it has gotten moisture in the bottom of it and now it is sagging on its rollers as the floor is being pushed upwards into the the slider. so I need to remove it and replace the supporting structure that is above the aluminum panel, which im sure is OSB, (which is only slightly better than particle board and should never have been used in any type of RV) with a good strong piece of HDP plywood... if anyone has done this, or even just removed and replaced an accu-slide brand unit I would like to hear from you... Thanks368Views0likes0CommentsRe: Crack in shower floor
for a professional repair, you do need to know what the material is, but a professional repair should be done by a professional if you want it to look like it was never damaged. for a permanent repair that will last the life of the rv, clean the area well with with soap and water,then wipe it down with alchol to remove any oils that may remain from either bodies or soap.... then mask the area off about a quarter inch around the hole/crack, and then gently buff it with an abrasive scotchbrite pad or 280grit sandpaper... then use a small dab of 3M 5200 adhesive sealent on it... this will take a few days to cure, but it will be forever. then get some of the anti-slip flowers, turtles, or tape to place over it for double duty... it will help protect the patch job, and hide it so the repair will never be seen...599Views0likes0CommentsRe: leveling
I will park where the trailer is at its most level, and then I use a tri-leveler.. I have a triple axle trailer so I have three of the wedge shaped tri-levelers, but I had to cut the short end off of two of them so that they would fit between the wheels so I could drive up on them, as they were longer than the wheel spacing. most times I only need one, but sometimes two of them... rarely do I need all three to bring the trailer level.... but I also carry extra blocking that I have had to use when we were reduced to staying in the most unlevel site in a campground... I used to always use wood blocking, but it often breaks so it needs replenished sometimes, and is always dirty when its is wet or placed on gravel... I then tried the lynx levelers, but in my opinion, they are too time consuming when setting up and when putting away.... by using only 2 easy to handle and use tri-levelers, I have enough height options about 95% of the time... and if one pays attention to where they park, one tri-leveler will work 70% of the time... the more axles you have, the harder it is to get level, and the more important it is to have the easiest to use blocking to do it.592Views0likes0CommentsRe: SurgeGuard 41620, auto transfer switch, schematics?
SoundGuy wrote: centerline wrote: Im looking for a wiring diagram for a surge-guard 41620 automatic transfer switch. ive tried their website but had no luck finding a wiring diagram for this model.. does anyone have a manual or website that would show me the proper way it should be wired up?... Doesn't seem to be a 41620 but info for the 41260 can be downloaded here. and theres the problem why I couldnt find it. thank you...415Views0likes0Comments
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